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Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice - Page 10

post #136 of 275
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AHS View Post

Wearing my Florsheim 93606 PTBs on an overcast San Francisco morning.



AHS

Wow, what a great patina. And to get that kind of shine on an overcast day is amazing. Great shoes.


Edited by smfdoc - 10/14/16 at 9:44am
post #137 of 275
Quote:
Originally Posted by AHS View Post

Wearing my Florsheim 93606 PTBs on an overcast San Francisco morning.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


AHS

 

I would love to obtain a pair of these.  Are they on the same last as the 93605?

post #138 of 275
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Allen Dreadmon View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AHS View Post

Wearing my Florsheim 93606 PTBs on an overcast San Francisco morning.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


AHS

 

I would love to obtain a pair of these.  Are they on the same last as the 93605?

 

In all my reading, I have yet to hear any discussion of Florsheim using different lasts during that time period. I would expect them to be the same. Perhaps David from the vcleat.com will weigh in on lasts used at that time.

post #139 of 275
Quote:
Originally Posted by smfdoc View Post

In all my reading, I have yet to hear any discussion of Florsheim using different lasts during that time period. I would expect them to be the same. Perhaps David from the vcleat.com will weigh in on lasts used at that time.

That is my understanding, as well.

Once caveat, however, is that I have come across specific pairs that fit differently than others of the exact same model. Twice I purchased longwings in a size 11 C (my typical fit in vintage Florsheims) that felt narrower / smaller, like a 10.5 C or 11 B. One possibility is that they came out of the factory this way: the shoes were (mostly?) handmade and there could be some slight variation on any given pair. I guess another possibility is that the leather tightened over the decades?

Allen Dreadmon, what size are you?

AHS
post #140 of 275
I've been building up my collection / rotation of vintage Florsheims. Here are the highlights...

93605 #8 shell longwing. My favorite.




93606 #8 shell PTB




96624 black calf longwing. At the bottom of the rotation, but I had to have a pair of black longwings.




32601 #8 shell PTB. According to our resident scholar, David at vcleat.com, these are from 1958.




93631 golden harvest calf longwing. Check out the original box.



93230 #8 shell Yuma loafer. Paid more $$ than I would normally shell (ha!) out for vintage shoes, but I rationalized that I might never see this model again in my size.




Thanks for indulging me and my awful iPhone photos.

AHS
post #141 of 275
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by AHS View Post

I've been building up my collection / rotation of vintage Florsheims. Here are the highlights...

93605 #8 shell longwing. My favorite.




93606 #8 shell PTB




96624 black calf longwing. At the bottom of the rotation, but I had to have a pair of black longwings.




32601 #8 shell PTB. According to our resident scholar, David at vcleat.com, these are from 1958.




93631 golden harvest calf longwing. Check out the original box.



93230 #8 shell Yuma loafer. Paid more $$ than I would normally shell (ha!) out for vintage shoes, but I rationalized that I might never see this model again in my size.




Thanks for indulging me and my awful iPhone photos.

AHS

Those are great and you were right about the Yuma. Those are pretty rare and those are a great pair.
post #142 of 275
Thread Starter 

If you are a 10.5C, I have two Florsheim Imperials that need a new home. The first is the brown long wing 93602 and the second is the 93606 shell plain toe blucher. Both are 5 nail soles with a V cleat heel. Nice additions to anyone building a few vintage shoes into their collection. PM me if interested.

post #143 of 275
Quote:
Originally Posted by AHS View Post

That is my understanding, as well.

Once caveat, however, is that I have come across specific pairs that fit differently than others of the exact same model. Twice I purchased longwings in a size 11 C (my typical fit in vintage Florsheims) that felt narrower / smaller, like a 10.5 C or 11 B. One possibility is that they came out of the factory this way: the shoes were (mostly?) handmade and there could be some slight variation on any given pair. I guess another possibility is that the leather tightened over the decades?

Allen Dreadmon, what size are you?

AHS

I am a 9C but would also consider 8.5D.
post #144 of 275
Edwin Clapp 1940s/50s New Englanders in black.






Like DFW says when the leather dries out pas a certain point you can't get it back. Hence the surface cracking on the vamps But underneath is is sound.
post #145 of 275
Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

Edwin Clapp 1940s/50s New Englanders in black.


Like DFW says when the leather dries out pas a certain point you can't get it back. Hence the surface cracking on the vamps But underneath is is sound.

Actually, when the leather gets to that point, the best thing to do is stop wearing them. It may look solid underneath but believe me it's only a matter of degree and continued flexing will only exacerbate the problem until the cracks open up entirely.
post #146 of 275
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

Actually, when the leather gets to that point, the best thing to do is stop wearing them. It may look solid underneath but believe me it's only a matter of degree and continued flexing will only exacerbate the problem until the cracks open up entirely.

Saying all that DWFII these are more like a surface horizontal delaminating than a deep into the body leather vertical crack - like the Prince Charles variety.

I have some other shoes that have a similar but not so advanced problem and I have worn and continue to wear them for years.
Edited by meister - 10/18/16 at 12:34am
post #147 of 275
Not bad for 70+ years old these Crosby Squares spades!

post #148 of 275
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

Not bad for 70+ years old these Crosby Squares spades!

 

I do like many of your other shoes, but those are just stunning. I especially like the double row of contrast stitching on the welt up front.

post #149 of 275
Thread Starter 

One occasionally runs across a vintage item connected with our favorite brand of shoes. In this case it is an Alden travel shoe shine kit. This item was made in Italy and uses crocodile on the lid. It appears to contain a horse hair brush, a tube of shoe cream, application brush and a shoe horn. I am surprised that the brushes appear to be lower in quality with widely spaced bristles. But this may have been created as something to just get a man through a trip and back home where the shoes can be properly maintained. I have no idea when this item was created or its distribution. I think the $166 being asked by the Ebay seller is optimistic, but to a diehard Alden guy it may be just the ticket.

 

 

 

 

post #150 of 275
Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

Not bad for 70+ years old these Crosby Squares spades!

Those are a very handsome pair of shoes. Amazing condition for their age.

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