Not sure if I agree with all this talk about Italian tailoring being at pole position now. To be clear, Italian tailoring is more popular on SF (within the very small sample set of people on this forum who actually order high-priced bespoke). As a whole, Savile Row is far larger than Italian bespoke houses. The Rake contends (and I have no reason to doubt them) that Rubinacci is the largest Italian bespoke house, and makes 800 suits / year. That's 30% smaller than A&S and Poole, and comparable in output to a Dege or Davies. After Rubinacci and Caraceni, I'm guessing the others are meaningfully smaller, while SR has 12+ tailors who punch out 300+ suits a year.
From my own experience, when I first started on SF I was (like everyone else here) fascinated by the Italians and believed that everything coming out of the Row was ill-fitting, poorly-made junk. I proceeded to try many top Italian tailors (Rubinacci, Liverano, NSM, Pirozzi), and now give all my business to two tailors on the Row (every now and then, I also order from Gordon Yao in HK).
Here are the reasons why -
There's a reason why SR has existed (and thrived) for decades - it's the house style which has been refined over the years into an attractive silhouette that flatters most men. Rather than being a stilted canvas that no Instagram-hungry Pitti hero would wear, its a style that's evolved continuously and has been perfected by the Row.
Contrast that with Florentine or Neapolitan tailors, where the excessive cutaways, high-buttoning points, and unpadded shoulders only look good on a select subsection of customers. If you're a big guy with a muscular build, or if you have sloping shoulders, or if you have large hips / seat, those cuts will almost certainly not look good on you
This is a big one. My suits from my SR tailors are ALWAYS the same. There is an amazing consistency to the output - again, in stark contrast to the Italians. Suits from Italian tailors are almost always different across iterations which can be extremely frustrating, particularly if you believe you've locked in a pattern / style that works well for you.
After dealing with American customers for the past century, SR tailors have a fairly good customer-facing operation in place. Communication is strong and timely, items are delivered on schedule, and trips are planned on a consistent basis. Other than a few select Italian tailors, all the Italians are awful in this regard.
Im shocked they only do 800