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Has anybody bought a Savile Row custom suit? - Page 2

post #16 of 40
^ that's nonsense. You can see pictures of people here that don't speak the same language as their tailor and still look great.
post #17 of 40
There's not really much to it besides finding a house style you like and trying them out. It's true that you might not like the cut in the end, but there's no real way to find out except through trial and error. Other clients' commissions (and what you see on websites/ through shop windows) give you an approximation, but it's not the same as just getting something yourself.

It's not always possible, but if you know people who have used the same cutter at a certain tailoring house, that can also be very useful. Looking at a suit from ten years ago might not be indicative of what you'll get now, as the cutter at that tailoring house may have left. IMO, sometimes the broader "brand name" obscures the real, more important dimension of who will be the cutter behind your commission.
post #18 of 40
^ in my experience with the traditional row houses house style dwarfs each cutter's personal decisions. House style - as interpreted by the head cutter - is replicated closely by all the other cutters. Pat Murphy cuts a very different suit at Davies than he did at Huntsman, and if you now want the look that Pat used to cut at huntsman you go to Dario Carnera. And Campbell Carey cuts a different suit at Huntsman than he did at Kilgour. You have exceptions, like when Davide Taub came to G&H and basically overhauled the house style, but now everyone there makes suits that look like Taub's.
post #19 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

^ in my experience with the traditional row houses house style dwarfs each cutter's personal decisions. House style - as interpreted by the head cutter - is replicated closely by all the other cutters. Pat Murphy cuts a very different suit at Davies than he did at Huntsman, and if you now want the look that Pat used to cut at huntsman you go to Dario Carnera. And Campbell Carey cuts a different suit at Huntsman than he did at Kilgour. You have exceptions, like when Davide Taub came to G&H and basically overhauled the house style, but now everyone there makes suits that look like Taub's.

I'm not saying a cutter supersedes the house style; I'm saying each cutter will execute the house style sightly differently. And some, frankly, are better than others at what they do.
post #20 of 40
^you said that the choice of cutter is more important than house style. That's just wrong. The variances among cutters within a particular house are much smaller than the variances between styles across houses.
post #21 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

^you said that the choice of cutter is more important than house style. That's just wrong. The variances among cutters within a particular house are much smaller than the variances between styles across houses.

I don't think I ever said the variance between cutters is greater than the variance between houses. I said the house name sometimes obscures important details, such as who is the cutter behind your suit/ jacket.

An A&S suit is not just an A&S suit. If you're looking at an A&S suit from 30 years ago, that will be slightly different from what you'll get now. If you like an A&S suit on a client -- say a friend of yours, or someone you see online -- the cutter who made that garment may not be the one that will be assigned to you. Boiling things down by houses is a good first step (which is stated in my post); knowing your cutter and being familiar with his (sometimes her) work can be even better.
post #22 of 40
Read it again. You said cutter was more important than house.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

IMO, sometimes the broader "brand name" obscures the real, more important dimension of who will be the cutter behind your commission.
post #23 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

Read it again. You said cutter was more important than house.

Jesus Christ, you're insufferable.
post #24 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Jesus Christ, you're insufferable.

Dieworkwear, you seem upset. Is there something you want to talk about? Is everything ok? I'm worried about you.
post #25 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Jesus Christ, you're insufferable.

Plus 1
post #26 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by Astaroth View Post

You didnt answer if this will be your first bespoke suit or not?

Unless you have money to burn I wouldnt have my first bespoke suit made on Savil Row. Knowing what you like, what looks good on you, how to articulate these things etc all take a little practice and so personally I'd rather be doing that with the tailors that are c£1,000 a suit than c£5,000

You can't compare a £1000 suit to one at £5000 on the row, but I am sure you would need to do a lot of hand holding with someone who makes you a £1000 suit, monkeys and peanuts springs to mind. Walk into Huntsman, Dege, Kilgour, A&S, Gieves, Poole, Richard Anderson, Richard James etc and you'll get a fine enough suit. This is really like saying you need to be a top mechanic to own a Rolls or be a top food critic to enjoy fine dining.
post #27 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post


I know of no Savile Row tailoring house that does their bespoke tailoring in China. MTM or RTW, possibly (I wouldn't know). Not Huntsman, not Anderson & Sheppard, not Poole, not G&H, not Stephen Hitchcock, not Steed. Heck, at Chittleborough & Morgan you can go into the back room and see all the tailors busily hand-making your suit. It's fascinating.

As GBR said, you need to decide what kind of suit you want, then go talk to the houses whose style is closet to what you want. Basically, the two ends of the spectrum are the soft tailored drape style of Anderson & Sheppard and the highly structured power suit style epitomized by Chittleborough & Morgan.

Hi Andy, did you do research like this by stopping into chat at these places? It's about 10 years since I was at RJ but I'd find it really odd if people came into chat like that, it just wasn't really done. I'm not being critical (I would tell you if I was) but I wonder if the culture has changed since then. The trouble I think with this approach is that you are talking to people that are there to serve you not to sell to you. I have to admit I feel perplexed if someone comes in to ask me about my process in great detail and to "sell" them a suit, I'm good at managing tailors, fitting clients and getting suits done in time not really "selling". I've met some great salesmen that could sell anything and I certainly couldn't do that.
Going back to Gieves way back when I was 19 (1998?) I was told on my first day that I was in service not sales as a man that walks into a Savile row establishment has already made up his mind to buy a suit. This wasn't "official" company policy and I wonder if it's out of step with how they operate now but it came from a regional manager who later became head of bespoke at no1.
post #28 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR View Post

Plus 1

Bummer. I was hoping we'd hang out some time.
Edited by Griffyndor - 6/19/16 at 7:24am
post #29 of 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post


Hi Andy, did you do research like this by stopping into chat at these places? It's about 10 years since I was at RJ but I'd find it really odd if people came into chat like that, it just wasn't really done. I'm not being critical (I would tell you if I was) but I wonder if the culture has changed since then. The trouble I think with this approach is that you are talking to people that are there to serve you not to sell to you. I have to admit I feel perplexed if someone comes in to ask me about my process in great detail and to "sell" them a suit, I'm good at managing tailors, fitting clients and getting suits done in time not really "selling". I've met some great salesmen that could sell anything and I certainly couldn't do that.
Going back to Gieves way back when I was 19 (1998?) I was told on my first day that I was in service not sales as a man that walks into a Savile row establishment has already made up his mind to buy a suit. This wasn't "official" company policy and I wonder if it's out of step with how they operate now but it came from a regional manager who later became head of bespoke at no1.


Goodness me, no.

 

And I didn't advocate doing so, but if you're close enough to do so, well, why not? When I was looking into buying my first "Savile Row" suit, I knew, more or less, that I wanted a drape cut style suit, in the A&S mold. And so, living in the San Francisco area, it was a question of which tailors travel to SF on a regular basis. That narrowed down the field somewhat and to cut a long story short, I decided to commission a suit from Edwin DeBoise at Steed. I liked the idea, touched on earlier in the thread, of being able to form a relationship with my tailor and I think I've been able to do that with Edwin and Matthew of Steed.

 

My example of Chittleborough & Morgan comes from two times visiting their shop at 12 Savile Row. Through a combination of circumstances I choose not to go into, I had to be in London the very day that I was supposed to have my first meeting with Steed in San Francisco. Joe Morgan was kind enough to take my initial set of measurements for Steed. It worked out well and Joe and I had a very pleasant hour or so conversation. The second time I met Joe was one time when I dropped off some cloth for Steed while I was in London. Joe gave me a sort of tour of their back rooms where many tailors were busily creating those fabulous C&M suits. It was utterly fascinating.

 

I have been very happy with Steed. But if I were to want something different, and I might very well, I'd get a suit cut by Joe Morgan.

post #30 of 40
WHITCOMB & SHAFTESBURY is offering a cut suit in London but stitched in India. They also offer the same product 100% made in UK.
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