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MoneyWellSpent's Southern Trad Thread - Page 28

post #406 of 474
Sacks can have a good bit of shape in the waist, and I prefer them that way. BB's sack silhouette fluctuated quite a bit over the decades. They were generally boxy like all sacks in the earliest 20th c., gained more shape in the 20s and 30s, lost it in the 50s, and gained some back in the 70s and 80s. They're usually thought of as boxy like the 50s and 60s models, but that was just the Ivy trend following the wider men's fashion world, which went for bigger, looser, drapier fits in the postwar era. Probably because a generation of men didn't want to feel like they were wearing their old closely-tailored uniforms anymore.


1931:

CpW5CEuWEAU6X4d.jpg:large


1939:

CpSHsqUUMAIcBjS.jpg:large


1950s:

CpkBy7sUsAA50Kh.jpg:large


1970s/80s:

CpWyJgGW8AAN5aZ.jpg:large
post #407 of 474
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orgetorix View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Sacks can have a good bit of shape in the waist, and I prefer them that way. BB's sack silhouette fluctuated quite a bit over the decades. They were generally boxy like all sacks in the earliest 20th c., gained more shape in the 20s and 30s, lost it in the 50s, and gained some back in the 70s and 80s. They're usually thought of as boxy like the 50s and 60s models, but that was just the Ivy trend following the wider men's fashion world, which went for bigger, looser, drapier fits in the postwar era.

Probably because a generation of men didn't want to feel like they were wearing their old closely-tailored uniforms anymore.

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
1931:

CpW5CEuWEAU6X4d.jpg:large


1939:

CpSHsqUUMAIcBjS.jpg:large


1950s:

CpkBy7sUsAA50Kh.jpg:large


1970s/80s:

CpWyJgGW8AAN5aZ.jpg:large

 

...or because they plumped-out in the 1950's economic boom and the sack suit served as the great equalizer.  :stirpot:

post #408 of 474
Quote:
Originally Posted by smittycl View Post

...or because they plumped-out in the 1950's economic boom and the sack suit served as the great equalizer.  stirpot.gif

The shape that's present (or not) in the waist of a jacket is an aesthetic, pattern-drafting decision that's not totally dependent on the wearer's build.
post #409 of 474
Thread Starter 

Ok Tradists, its college football season. I hope to see your best team colors at some point. No one does tailgating like southerners, and no one does game day apparel like southern football fans.

post #410 of 474
Naples (with a little help from Bologna) invades the South. Bespoke MBnT seersucker suit. Bespoke Luca Avitabile cotton/linen shirt (DJAnderson Zephir Lino). Bresciani cotton socks. All Naples. Plus Bonafé canvas and leather shoes from Bologna.
photo C261C29E-2742-42F8-8AFD-B50D5DB24AF4_zpsa7rzaucu.jpg
post #411 of 474
Thread Starter 

That is spectacular.

post #412 of 474

Last week.  Felt southernish.  New to me BB patchwork pants.  First outing of the Barrie Ltd kicks.  

 

 

 

 

post #413 of 474

Good old Allen Edmonds. They send pics of your shoes before and after recrafting! Should get them back soon...

 

Carry on.

post #414 of 474
Thread Starter 

Yeah, they are good about that. I had them redraft a pair of boots for me and it was an amazing transformation.

post #415 of 474

Sack It To Me.......

Since I haven't bought much since the Bicentennial, almost all of my Brooks Brothers jackets are 3/2 undarted sack jackets.  Here's a picture from a few weeks ago wearing a Brooks Brothers silk tweed glen plaid undarted sack jacket that's followed to path of many such jackets and has lost whatever shape it had when Nixon was President and doesn't even button up quite right any more.

(On the plus side, in those days the patterns matched where the sleeves attached to the jacket unlike today, where they no longer do on most Brooks Brothers jackets.)

post #416 of 474
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roycru View Post
 

Sack It To Me.......

Since I haven't bought much since the Bicentennial, almost all of my Brooks Brothers jackets are 3/2 undarted sack jackets.  Here's a picture from a few weeks ago wearing a Brooks Brothers silk tweed glen plaid undarted sack jacket that's followed to path of many such jackets and has lost whatever shape it had when Nixon was President and doesn't even button up quite right any more.

(On the plus side, in those days the patterns matched where the sleeves attached to the jacket unlike today, where they no longer do on most Brooks Brothers jackets.)

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


 

Yeah, BB sport coats are mostly made in Thailand or China now apparently. They have some that are Italian which can tell fro the retail price.

post #417 of 474
And the own make line is made by Southwick.
post #418 of 474
Quote:
Originally Posted by smittycl View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Yeah, BB sport coats are mostly made in Thailand or China now apparently. They have some that are Italian which can tell fro the retail price.

Their "artisan" line sport coats are fantastic and extremely well made. That said, I have several coats from Brooks Brothers that are made in less glamorous locales, and for the price, they are pretty hard to beat. Strong quality control is what is key about making a great piece of clothing in China or Thailand.
post #419 of 474
Quote:
Originally Posted by gnatty8 View Post


Their "artisan" line sport coats are fantastic and extremely well made. That said, I have several coats from Brooks Brothers that are made in less glamorous locales, and for the price, they are pretty hard to beat. Strong quality control is what is key about making a great piece of clothing in China or Thailand.

True. Even the Thai-manufactured SC's are of passable quality, if not comparable to Italian standards. I ordered one of their Artisanal SC's a while back. Made in Italy to very high standards but way too short and slim-fitting for me. I can wear RLBL and Burberry but had to return that one. 

 

I've passed all my BB sport coats on to some of the younger guys here at work.

post #420 of 474
Quote:
Originally Posted by smittycl View Post

True. Even the Thai-manufactured SC's are of passable quality, if not comparable to Italian standards. I ordered one of their Artisanal SC's a while back. Made in Italy to very high standards but way too short and slim-fitting for me. I can wear RLBL and Burberry but had to return that one. 

I've passed all my BB sport coats on to some of the younger guys here at work.

That's the truth! I am usually a 38R and even then, a 37R would probably fit me more to my liking, but the sizing on the artisan line is all over the map. I have a couple in 38R, a couple more in 40R, and one in a 42R!! I am assuming different makers explain the variance (I believe both of the 40R are made by Lardini, which used to be (and still may be) the maker of most of the Ferragamo suiting) between them. They are very well made though, and the fabrics can be stunning.
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