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AGJiffy's Wall Street Indiviudally Modified Conservative Business Dress Week Threak - Page 3

post #31 of 293

The shirring is only part of the problem. I believe and hope he is using spalla camicia to generically mean a blunted sleevehead. They look dinky and childish, sitting directly on the anatomical shoulder. American suits are padded.

 

America is not the only place where you will be shunned as infantile for this kind of construction.

post #32 of 293
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

But seriously, why do you think spalla camicia would be shunned in a business context, but not pagoda shoulders? The shirring on a sleevehead can be so subtle that it's barely noticeable when worn. Pagoda shoulders, on the other hand, are a lot more in your face (and distinctive in a room full of soft-shouldered American suits).

You are getting ahead of me a little bit. I'm trying to establish my personal style before I start talking about the things that I don't like. Today is chapter 1 and the answer to your question is in chapter 3. I'm sorry that you find this overwrought and I wish I could think of another way to do it. It was my hope that there would be something in chapter 1 that is interesting enough to discuss now.
post #33 of 293

I thnk he is concerned that you may not be collectively bettering the knowledge of the forum

post #34 of 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

You are getting ahead of me a little bit. I'm trying to establish my personal style before I start talking about the things that I don't like. Today is chapter 1 and the answer to your question is in chapter 3. I'm sorry that you find this overwrought and I wish I could think of another way to do it. It was my hope that there would be something in chapter 1 that is interesting enough to discuss now.

Just my opinion, but the overwrought writing style is really hard to get through, although I appreciate the effort to start a discussion.

If we're going to just stick to today's example, I'd say the triple patch pockets and pagoda shoulders might push this outside of CBD. And adding a shirt monogram as a way to personalize style seems to cut against the general spirit of this thread (which, from what I can tell, is grumpy anti-iGentism, which is oddly its own form of iGentism). If someone sees it, it would be considered poor taste. If nobody sees it, then it makes no difference. This is like saying you can personalize your style with Mormon underwear.
post #35 of 293

Lol @ the attempt to systematize and parse the information in a way that can be later distilled into a blog post with affiliate links to RTW versions of the items described therein. All left-brain all the time, eh?

 

It is infinitely more entertaining to read than articles about when Mr. Porter's sale starts

post #36 of 293
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Just my opinion, but the overwrought writing style is really hard to get through, although I appreciate the effort to start a discussion.

If we're going to just stick to today's example, I'd say the triple patch pockets and pagoda shoulders might push this outside of CBD. And adding a shirt monogram as a way to personalize style seems to cut against the general spirit of this thread (which, from what I can tell, is grumpy anti-iGentism). If someone sees it, it would be considered poor taste. If nobody sees it, then it makes no difference. This is like saying you can personalize your style with Mormon underwear.

Grumpy i-gentism? I have definitely lost you with my overwrought writing style as grumpy i-getism is exactly the opposite of what I am trying to do. Thank you for the critique. I will take this into account as we enter into tomorrow and the rest of the week. ALSO PLEASE LET ME KNOW WOULD IT HELP IF I WROTE IN ALL CAPS WITHOUT PUNCTUATION OR AM I MISSING THE POINT COMPLETELY
post #37 of 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

Hi there. I've moved all of your posts to the new Menswear Advice Forum, where you'll get more useful advice and where other members with similar questions can benefit from your having asked.

Cheers.
post #38 of 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

Grumpy i-gentism? I have definitely lost you with my overwrought writing style as grumpy i-getism is exactly the opposite of what I am trying to do. Thank you for the critique. I will take this into account as we enter into tomorrow and the rest of the week. ALSO PLEASE LET ME KNOW WOULD IT HELP IF I WROTE IN ALL CAPS WITHOUT PUNCTUATION OR AM I MISSING THE POINT COMPLETELY

I think of grumpy i-Gentism is a kind of weird, obsessive hate against things that are popular on the internet (even if they have long traditions, wouldn't be noticed in real life, or are even in good taste). It's focused more on what's "bad" than what's "good." Less about a joy for clothes and more about a hate for people.

Maybe I'm reading this all wrong, but I got a lot grumpiness in the earlier posts.

But OK, maybe it was meant in humor and I'm reading it wrong. So we have a triple patch pocket jacket with pagoda shoulders and a shirt monogram that nobody would see. And a generally tasteful combination (I like the fit/ ensemble, by the way). If the thesis is that this is more tasteful than a guy in a navy business suit with spalla camicia shoulders (and standard everything else), I admit I don't agree. If the thesis is that this is a good way to look well-dressed in most business environments, then yes, I agree. I don't think most people in 2016 know how to read suits, so even if the jacket has triple patch pockets and pagoda shoulders, I assume most people don't know or care. Things such as pocket squares would get more notice; other things are too subtle for the non-hobbyist.
post #39 of 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Just my opinion, but the overwrought writing style is really hard to get through, although I appreciate the effort to start a discussion.

If we're going to just stick to today's example, I'd say the triple patch pockets and pagoda shoulders might push this outside of CBD. And adding a shirt monogram as a way to personalize style seems to cut against the general spirit of this thread (which, from what I can tell, is grumpy anti-iGentism, which is oddly its own form of iGentism). If someone sees it, it would be considered poor taste. If nobody sees it, then it makes no difference. This is like saying you can personalize your style with Mormon underwear.

Monogram on underwear (and I read that shirt is a sort of underwear) is a good way to know what is yours and what belongs to someone else. Who knows what those Wall Street financiers do in their private clubs after day worth of screwing honest 99%
post #40 of 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by gs77 View Post

Monogram on underwear (and I read that shirt is a sort of underwear) is a good way to know what is yours and what belongs to someone else. Who knows what those Wall Street financiers do in their private clubs after day worth of screwing honest 99%

I like them in the place Agjiffy describes, although I think even there -- unless you're the kind of person who has always gotten monograms -- they can come off as affected.

That said, I'm all for enjoying clothes. So if they bring someone joy, so be it. That's certainly a more tasteful placement than on the shirt cuff.

I get three different collars from my shirtmaker -- one a buttondown, which is straightforward, the other two slightly different versions of spread collars. I've thought about putting shirt monograms at the tail as a way to tell which one is which. That way, I don't have to look at the collar too closely, which is otherwise a bit hard to distinguish until you put the shirt on and button everything up. With the shirt tucked, nobody would be able to see anything.
post #41 of 293

Try barcodes, it's what I do.

post #42 of 293
After a long period of basking, I have to say that I'm impressed. Not by the fit itself (or ensemble, or maybe "get-up"?), but mainly by the vast amount of words.

I have only one problem. Monograms are always, without exception, a dick move. When I first saw your pic I immidiately sensed that something was wrong, but I could not put my finger on it. Something was just...weird, like an itch lodged somewhere in my brain that I couldn't scratch.

And then there it was: a hidden monogram. "Shudder".

Apart from that: great fun!
post #43 of 293

There is a certain psychology behind the shoulders. Padded shoulders convey a bit more presence along with a noticeable silhouette. Natural shoulders (and patch pockets) convey a more casual look. Chairing an important meeting or meeting with a group Alpha Dogs? My personal opinon would be to wear the power suit. No need to go all Gordon Gekko, just convey what you need to convey. Doesn't mean you can't wear an interesting shirt and tie. Don Draper pocket squares work well (I'm missing the proper term, "60's" something-or-other?).

 

Here's Journal of Style via PutThisOn: http://putthison.com/post/142019337173/going-shoulder-to-shoulder-a-look-at-three

post #44 of 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiplomaticTies View Post

After a long period of basking, I have to say that I'm impressed. Not by the fit itself (or ensemble, or maybe "get-up"?), but mainly by the vast amount of words.

I have only one problem. Monograms are always, without exception, a dick move. When I first saw your pic I immidiately sensed that something was wrong, but I could not put my finger on it. Something was just...weird, like an itch lodged somewhere in my brain that I couldn't scratch.

And then there it was: a hidden monogram. "Shudder".

Apart from that: great fun!

Agreed! Never wear monograms unless your initials are DIK

post #45 of 293
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I like them in the place Agjiffy describes, although I think even there -- unless you're the kind of person who has always gotten monograms -- they can come off as affected.

I can't see how mine would come off as affected. It is literally below the trouser line and can't be seen while the shirt is being worn.
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