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AGJiffy's Wall Street Indiviudally Modified Conservative Business Dress Week Threak - Page 15

post #211 of 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caustic Man View Post
 

Looks like flip flops to me.

 

Flip flops can be deadly. Not as dangerous as crocs, but lethal if used correctly. That's why they should have stricter flip flop laws in the US.

post #212 of 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

I don't hate Neapolitan suits. I own and wear them. I just don't wear them to work. And I don't understand the story about the girl you used to date.

Really hard to respond to the rest of your post for a couple reasons. First, you don't really understand what I'm talking about when I talk about a Neapolitan look. Here you go, this should answer 10 of your questions:

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?49543-Neapolitan-Shoulder-Explained

On the pagoda shoulders, to what region would you attribute those? Italy? France? Britain? It is historically done in everywhere that has a serious tradition of tailoring.

I think I said pretty clearly that I'm willing to admit that the neapolitan look may go unnoticed, or noticed no more than any of the other things I"m wearing. So I suppose it boils down to the way I feel wearing it.

I understand what's a Neapolitan shoulder/ sleevehead. And I've seen Manton's article.

I didn't say pagoda was regional; just that's more noticeable.

Do any of your French jackets have fish-mouth lapels?

If it boils down to you not liking Neapolitan suits, that's totally fine. I don't think anyone can argue with that. I was running on your previous argument, which IIRC, was something about how you would be derided in a NYC office if you showed up in a Neapolitan suit. I think that was your original argument in the WAYWT thread, but maybe I'm misremembering.
post #213 of 293
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I understand what's a Neapolitan shoulder/ sleevehead. And I've seen Manton's article.

I didn't say pagoda was regional; just that's more noticeable.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


I'm still not understanding how you think pagoda shoulders is 1) less regional than spalla camicia

Hmmmm.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


Do any of your French jackets have fish-mouth lapels?

Yes. Not quite in the camps sense, but close.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


If it boils down to you not liking Neapolitan suits, that's totally fine. I don't think anyone can argue with that. I was running on your previous argument, which IIRC, was something about how you would be derided in a NYC office if you showed up in a Neapolitan suit. I think that was your original argument in the WAYWT thread, but maybe I'm misremembering.

You keep saying that I don't like them. That isn't it. Its that I don't feel comfortable wearing them to work. I agree that is a different argument than what I made in the WAYWT thread. My argument there was wrong and I was convinced of as much by the other posters there.
post #214 of 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post


Hmmmm.
Yes. Not quite in the camps sense, but close.
You keep saying that I don't like them. That isn't it. Its that I don't feel comfortable wearing them to work. I agree that is a different argument than what I made in the WAYWT thread. My argument there was wrong and I was convinced of as much by the other posters there.

OK, fair point about pagoda.

If you have fish-like lapels, how is that different from a Neapolitan shoulder?
post #215 of 293

Rubinacci is a far cry from representative of Neapolitan tailoring, that's disingenuous.

American jackets do not sit on the anatomical shoulder, don't know why you keep going on about that.

The defining feature is the blunted, close sleevehead, which is what people notice, not all that flim-flam about the darts and whatnot.

post #216 of 293
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


If you have fish-like lapels, how is that different from a Neapolitan shoulder?

I don't know. I suppose I've never really thought about it. The jacket that I own with fish mouth lapels is so inappropriate for work that I've never had to consider whether the lapels alone would make me feel awkward.
post #217 of 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

I don't know. I suppose I've never really thought about it. The jacket that I own with fish mouth lapels is so inappropriate for work that I've never had to consider whether the lapels alone would make me feel awkward.

So the argument is:

1. You're happy to wear Neapolitan, French, or whatever else kind of jacket outside of work (assuming you like the style, cut, etc). Even if it's very region specific.
2. If you're going to work, however, you don't want to wear something region specific, even if no one would notice.
3. However, you're OK with wearing details that people would notice.

If that's the case, it seems peculiar, but OK. I don't think anyone would say you should have different preferences. I thought you were trying to make a broader point about what other people should or should not wear.
post #218 of 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


OK, fair point about pagoda.

If you have fish-like lapels, how is that different from a Neapolitan shoulder?

 

Don't really buy your comparison with the fishmouths. I'm a fan of parisian tailoring and have fishmouth lapels from the likes of Arnys (pre-Berluti), Camps de Luca and Smalto. But that's a detail that most people would never notice. There has never been a police line-up in the history of police line-ups where the witness said: "it's the guy with the fishmouth lapels, I would recognize that Camps suit anywhere!".

 

The Neapolitan shoulder almost always comes with a certain style of the entire suit in terms of cut, structure and what might be described as flair. I doubt that many people could identify the details of such an textile interface, but many would probably at least be able to say "that suit looked Italian".

post #219 of 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by DiplomaticTies View Post

Don't really buy your comparison with the fishmouths. I'm a fan of parisian tailoring and have fishmouth lapels from the likes of Arnys (pre-Berluti), Camps de Luca and Smalto. But that's a detail that most people would never notice. There has never been a police line-up in the history of police line-ups where the witness said: "it's the guy with the fishmouth lapels, I would recognize that Camps suit anywhere!".

The Neapolitan shoulder almost always comes with a certain style of the entire suit in terms of cut, structure and what might be described as flair. I doubt that many people could identify the details of such an textile interface, but many would probably at least be able to say "that suit looked Italian".

TBH, I don't think the average person has any idea what an "Italian" jacket even looks like, let alone something so regional as Neapolitan. If they were asked to describe an Italian suit, they would probably say something like: "super slim" or "the broad shouldered Armani stuff I saw in the '80s." Neither of those describe your typical Neapolitan suit, and neither refer to shoulder/ sleevehead treatment.
post #220 of 293

@agjiffy your last fit/ensamble/exosceleton... is a bit of exageration in that suit is made of some sort of linen, button stance is too high or skirt too long, pants cut slim... It just doesn't say "business dress". That would be my first thought, not that it is Neapolitan jacket.

Here is my contribution - jacket is made by one of Neapolitan big names. You really think someone "in real life" would notice? And does security guard look lead to security guard salary (and no bonus)?

 

post #221 of 293
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

So the argument is:

1. You're happy to wear Neapolitan, French, or whatever else kind of jacket outside of work (assuming you like the style, cut, etc). Even if it's very region specific.
2. If you're going to work, however, you don't want to wear something region specific, even if no one would notice.
3. However, you're OK with wearing details that people would notice.

If that's the case, it seems peculiar, but OK. I don't think anyone would say you should have different preferences. I thought you were trying to make a broader point about what other people should or should not wear.

Maybe to put it a little differently:
1. I'm focused on wearing things that make me feel comfortable in whatever setting I'm in. Sometimes when you listen to style bloggers talking about fashion-y clothing they say something like "the most important thing about rocking this look is that you do it confidently!" That seems like good advice.
2. The neapolitan look makes me feel uncomfortable for the reasons I've described. Its more like bermuda shorts or kimono to me than patch pockets.

I understand that 2 isn't satisfactory to you. I don't understand why 1 isn't a sufficient "broader point about what people should wear", particularly given how beautifully I've illustrated it throughout this thread, and how much we've all had (with the exception of P-K-L).
post #222 of 293

I don't think the issue ever was whether people will finger your suit as Italian. It's not a game of Clue.

The issue was whether people will think u are a loser.

Or whether you will be a loser even if people don't think anything. Probably the worst of all worlds.

post #223 of 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

Maybe to put it a little differently:
1. I'm focused on wearing things that make me feel comfortable in whatever setting I'm in. Sometimes when you listen to style bloggers talking about fashion-y clothing they say something like "the most important thing about rocking this look is that you do it confidently!" That seems like good advice.
2. The neapolitan look makes me feel uncomfortable for the reasons I've described. Its more like bermuda shorts or kimono to me than patch pockets.

I understand that 2 isn't satisfactory to you. I don't understand why 1 isn't a sufficient "broader point about what people should wear", particularly given how beautifully I've illustrated it throughout this thread, and how much we've all had (with the exception of P-K-L).

I'm not really satisfied with point two, but again, I don't think anyone can argue with your preferences. If the broader point is that people should feel comfortable in their clothes, I agree. It just doesn't seem like a very novel point.
post #224 of 293
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by gs77 View Post

@agjiffy
 your last fit/ensamble/exosceleton... is a bit of exageration in that suit is made of some sort of linen, button stance is too high or skirt too long, pants cut slim... It just doesn't say "business dress". That would be my first thought, not that it is Neapolitan jacket.
Here is my contribution - jacket is made by one of Neapolitan big names. You really think someone "in real life" would notice? And does security guard look lead to security guard salary (and no bonus)?



But that is rollino, correct? Sure looks it.
post #225 of 293
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

Sometimes when you listen to style bloggers talking about fashion-y clothing they say something like "the most important thing about rocking this look is that you do it confidently!" That seems like good advice.

 

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