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Slim fit overcoat?

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
I have been looking for a new overcoat. I have been hoping to find something in a basic/classical style. The problem I have had is the waist of the coat. I wear a 44L jacket and have a 35" waist. Almost every coat I have tried seems to be cut for people with a lot more girth in their mid-section. The only coats I have found with a thinner cut is Armani, but I haven't liked any of the materials I have seen so far. Any suggestions on what makes and models I should start looking at?
post #2 of 17
ah - i have found i'm not the only one with this problem. i asked this question on another thread - i'll ask it again here. i am a lot shorter but also have the same problem - i drown in most overcoats that fit me across the shoulders. Brian suggested Dior Homme but i'm not sure where to find it at a reasonable price. any other suggestions are welcome.
post #3 of 17
Quote:
ah - i have found i'm not the only one with this problem.  i asked this question on another thread - i'll ask it again here.  i am a lot shorter but also have the same problem - i drown in most overcoats that fit me across the shoulders.  Brian suggested Dior Homme but i'm not sure where to find it at a reasonable price.  any other suggestions are welcome.
If you don't mind saying, how short? I know that a lot of traditional shops will carry short sized overcoats. I don't know who the makers are (or were) though. Also, just a guess, but perhaps the boys or prep department at the main Brooks will have something for you.
post #4 of 17
I've been happy with my topcoat by Dolce and Gabbana, wool and silk, black. The lining is purple. It is a very slim fitting piece, tapered through the waist much like a nicely made suit. After three years it is still one of my favorite pieces. I saw the same one with a burgundy lining last year.
post #5 of 17
I think this is another place where WW Chan or another travelling tailor offers really good value.  As you've seen, RTW overcoats tend to be cut much worse than RTW suits.  My Chan overcoat fits perfectly to the point where people comment on it, costs less than you'd pay for a RTW Armani, is made from a good wool/cashmere blend in exactly the color I wanted and is exactly the style I wanted.  They even have access to Loro Piana Storm System fabrics (at greater cost than regular wool, of course) if you want a weather-proof overcoat. dan
post #6 of 17
Dolce & Gabbana is probably your best bet - lots of room in the shoulders, but quite slim at the waist.
post #7 of 17
Quote:
Dolce & Gabbana is probably your best bet - lots of room in the shoulders, but quite slim at the waist.
looks like M2M or D&G are my options. what type of prices are we talking about here with Chan and with D&G? and what stores carry d&g? i'm 5'6" and wear a 38s or 40s depending on the maker. but in overcoats even a 38s is like a sail. i could fit my girlfriend in with me and there would still be room left over.
post #8 of 17
Yeah, I'm curious too about the cost of custom overcoats by Chan etc. I forget that they can make things other than suits.
post #9 of 17
The cost of a Chan overcoat will vary a lot based on the fabric chosen.  I have one in a wool/cashmere blend for about $850.  No cashmere would have been cheaper, all cashmere would have been more expensive as would a "big" label fabric such as Zegna or Loro Piana.  I asked them recently about overcoats in Loro Piana Storm System and they quoted $1600 to $2400 depending on the cashmere content of the particular fabric chosen. dan
post #10 of 17
Quote:
what type of prices are we talking about here with D&G?  and what stores carry d&g?
Dolce and Gabbana new is $1649, last I checked.  Where are you located?  I find Dolce and Gabbana at the smaller places, or call their NYC boutique.  Not much on ebay in D&G topcoats, probably because of their low resale value.  Also, understand that D&G is a fused item.  You will get a hell of a lot more for your money with a little patience and a good tailor who listens to your needs.
post #11 of 17
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Quote:
(housemaidsknee @ Jan. 20 2005,09:48) what type of prices are we talking about here with D&G? and what stores carry d&g?
Dolce and Gabbana new is $1649, last I checked. Where are you located? I find Dolce and Gabbana at the smaller places, or call their NYC boutique. Not much on ebay in D&G topcoats, probably because of their low resale value. Also, understand that D&G is a fused item. You will get a hell of a lot more for your money with a little patience and a good tailor who listens to your needs.
$1650 is waay out of my league. isn't there something in the 400-500 range for slim people?
post #12 of 17
Like johnapril said, D&G (are we talking D&G as opposed to Dolce and Gabanna?) has low resale value, hence not much on ebay. But, if you can find it on ebay...low resale value (hence cheaper coat. I wouldn't be surprised if you find a brand new with tage 1600 dollar D&G coat for 300-400 dollars on ebay, IF you find the coat on ebay in the first place. Everything starts with a search. My recommendation...go vintage/thrift. Oftentimes older clothes are cut slimmer. People are fatter now, and companies cater to that. Plus, quality on many older garments will surpass much of what is made today (such as D%G). Good luck, Dan (who is also too slim and can never find anything that fits)
post #13 of 17
My Belvest overcoat is cut pretty slim, and I have similar proportions to your own, 44/46 jacket, 34-35" waist. I'm not sure if Belvest makes overcoats anymore though.
post #14 of 17

I'm 5'9'', 160lbs. Wear a 40R suit off the rack. Overcoats look like tents on me. I bought a nice one on sale (wool/cashmere) $300.00 had the sleeves taken up just a little and the coat tappered at the waist by an excellent tailor and am often complimented on how sharp the coat looks.

post #15 of 17
Would recommend checking out Yoox for their sales and look for European brands that aren't that popular (i.e. avoid Gucci, Burberry, etc. since these will have the least markdown). They have an easy return policy so not a big deal. I picked up a Raf Simons overcoat in cashmere/wool blend recently for a ridiculous 90% off retail and it is slim fitting. Would aim to land Caruso or Corneliani as these tend to undersell on there for some reason and both are generally high quality and cut slim.
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