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Shoulder ripples on MTM Samuelsohn - can/should I send it back?

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
Hi guys,

Bit of a weird phenomenon on my 3rd made-to-measure Samuelsohn suit under Canadian haberdasher Harry Rosen's JP Tilford imprint. The first two turned out great, and this one is also fantastic except for what you see in the pictures below: unsightly ripples along the shoulders. I tried to find out online what might be causing it, but couldn't come up with much. To make matters worse, the in-house tailor at Harry Rosen tried to fix it by "letting out" the shoulders, and it did nothing (the pics below are after this alteration). The salesman at Harry Rosen maintains it is not a fit issue and rather attributes the ripples to the fact that the suit is made from a finer fabric and with a smaller shoulder (I selected Samuelsohn's least structured fit), but I'm confident it has nothing to do with that, since I have plenty of jackets in lighter fabrics with less or no structure that do not have this issue.

I'm a bit peeved because my OTR suits and jackets from Suit Supply, Kent Wang, Brooks Brothers, LBM etc. do not have this issue, nor do the first two JP Tilford suits I bought. And at around $1400, I expect it to be more or less perfect. So, I turn to the wise persons of Styleforum to ask: what is causing this, can it be fixed, and to what degree should I put my foot down with Harry Rosen? Would I be justified asking them to remake it? Or am I being unreasonable and this just goes with the territory when it comes to MTM? Frankly if they don't resolve it I probably wouldn't buy another suit from them, which definitely isn't in their long-term interest since I'm a youngish guy with many suit purchases to look forward to. Appreciate your insights!

Apologies, it was kind of hard to get the pics just right, the issue looks more pronounced in real life (you'll notice the salesman chalked the ripples to bring to the tailor's attention for a second attempt at fixing them):



post #2 of 6

Unlikely that the fabric has anything to do with it.  Do the other suits that fit better have the same shoulder construction?   Break of the tape and take some measurements...see if the shoulder measures the same as the others.  Something is going on there....I wouldn't be very happy about it either.

post #3 of 6

That's BS.  There are plenty of suits made out of fine fabric that don't fit like that.

post #4 of 6

New poster here, and far from an expert, but Harry Rosen's guarantee is promoted often by them. If you aren't happy, they will make it right. Hold them to it.

I recently had three JP Tilford (Samuelsohn) suits made and two are basic business suits and one is a tux with "150" fabric. None of these have the issues you have, but I did notice that any issues with uneven material under the fabric will telegraph through to the surface. Shirt sleeves bunching up, etc. From my novice eye, it looks like the shoulder padding needs work.

You could try on a completely unstructured jacket off the rack to see how the shoulders look. I think your goal was trying to be something between that and a regular suit?

post #5 of 6
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Al9146 View Post

New poster here, and far from an expert, but Harry Rosen's guarantee is promoted often by them. If you aren't happy, they will make it right. Hold them to it.


I recently had three JP Tilford (Samuelsohn) suits made and two are basic business suits and one is a tux with "150" fabric. None of these have the issues you have, but I did notice that any issues with uneven material under the fabric will telegraph through to the surface. Shirt sleeves bunching up, etc. From my novice eye, it looks like the shoulder padding needs work.


You could try on a completely unstructured jacket off the rack to see how the shoulders look. I think your goal was trying to be something between that and a regular suit?

Thanks AI and others who replied. I actually did not know about HR's guarantee, which seems quite unequivocal: 100% satisfaction guaranteed (within reason). In this case I am definitely not satisfied and it sounds like others agree it's reasonable to expect better.

AI, I too think it must be something with the padding since one of the other two JP Tilford suits I have was made at the exact same time, to the exact same measurements and fit (i.e. soft shoulder), but does not display the same issue. So perhaps it's an error at Samulesohn? The weird thing is, the shoulder looks fine when the jacket is on the hanger, which makes me think it's more of a fit issue. Anyway, I'm going to push back a bit more at Harry's and hold them to their guarantee. Thanks for the advice!
post #6 of 6
Good luck, and in my experience the guys from HR are dedicated to making the customer happy. I have seen issues like this before, and occasionally relate them to a problem in slope, or rather a lack of slope, instead of an issue with the width of the point to point. Soft shoulders always make this more apparent, and often a little breaking on your ribs can positively identify this as the issue. There can be a few causes, that's what I see as the prime suspect.
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