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East Sicily Tailors - Page 7

post #91 of 461
Quote:
Originally Posted by bry2000 View Post


Couple of other things. The term quarters is an Igent term. Most tailors unless they are message board savvy won't know what you are talking about.

Even Italian tailors? It would be strange, being the most common word.
The front parts of the jacket are called in italian "quarti anteriori" or simply "davanti".

Anyway, UrbanComposition, great report and amazing jackets especially the DB.
I have no doubt Arrigo's DB cut "doppio uso" was influenced by a great client like @carpu65 a real connoisseur
post #92 of 461
Quote:
Originally Posted by bry2000 View Post

What you refer to as the more conservative Liverano is a thing a beauty.

He dresses really well. One of the best posters on the board, although I don't think he posts much here nowadays.
post #93 of 461
Quote:
Originally Posted by bry2000 View Post

What you refer to as the more conservative Liverano is a thing a beauty.

 

Those skinny pants though...

post #94 of 461
Was really referring to the jacket. I like a fuller trouser also.
post #95 of 461
Quote:
Originally Posted by bry2000 View Post

That's a lot of drape. Perhaps even more than old school A&S.

Urban Comp, have you ever tried a jacket with a more structured shoulder? That might be a good look for your build.

Interesting you say that about a structured shoulder because I thought the same. However, UC seems to have an athletic build which would usually suggest the exact style he is wearing. Is there something I'm not seeing?
post #96 of 461
Thread Starter 
A slight shoulder extension usually does the trick for me; the way the sleeve is attached is less of a factor.
post #97 of 461
Quote:
Originally Posted by vida View Post

Interesting you say that about a structured shoulder because I thought the same. However, UC seems to have an athletic build which would usually suggest the exact style he is wearing. Is there something I'm not seeing?

I suggested a structured shoulder based on the fit of his fresco suit jacket. I am sure the jacket is quite comfortable and the most important thing is that UC is happy.

But the fresco jacket gives the impression of really sloping shoulders. If one has sloping shoulders, a more structured shoulder could be a good choice. I don't know if UC has sloping shoulders or not, but the jacket (based on the photo) gives that appearance.

I get the sense that UC is relatively fit so I am not sure this cut is the most flattering for his build -- sloping shoulders, excessive drape, where the waist is nipped a bit to give the jacket a modicum of shape. This is just my observation and I am just offering a constructive comment and not looking for an internet fight.
post #98 of 461
Got it. I was just interested in your opinion because I see it the same way, but could not determine why.
post #99 of 461
Thread Starter 
I may be in the minority, but I can appreciate built-up and natural shoulders, as long as it's not too exaggerated on either extreme. I have and like both but feel more "me" with a natural shoulder. Padding seems artificial to me and if the cost of a natural shoulder means less of an ideal shape, I'm OK with that. My body is V enough as it is.
post #100 of 461
In that case, you don't need a structured shoulder. But perhaps, look at the other examples of the soft shoulder treatment that DWW posted (among other examples) for less extreme examples.

Also, in my view, the heavy drape of the jacket obscures your level of fitness. That's all.
post #101 of 461
I thought you were pretty fit. Your clothes look sharp...and I'm envious of your trip to Italy!
post #102 of 461
Thread Starter 
That's not drape.
post #103 of 461
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


Here we see @gusvs in a Liverano suit. He's always well-dressed, but this shows a Liverano jacket with very open quarters, which exposes the tie and waistband.



Here's a more conservative Liverano suit, which doesn't.



Thanks @dieworkwear However, the first example is actually not Liverano, it is Sartoria Corcos. The blue suit is Liverano though.
post #104 of 461
Quote:
Originally Posted by gusvs View Post

Thanks @dieworkwear However, the first example is actually not Liverano, it is Sartoria Corcos. The blue suit is Liverano though.

Whoops, thanks for the correction!
post #105 of 461
In that case, Liverano is clearly a step above Corcos and Guida.
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