East Sicily Tailors - Page 16
The tobacco seems to have a wider shoulder line? Not sure if it suits the slimness of the overall jacket. If I could, I'd switch the two jacket's shoulder lines -- an extended one on Arriago, a narrower one on the tobacco.
Other than that, the tobacco makes you look slimmer. And it overall has a more modern silhouette (slimmer waist, cleaner chest, shorter jacket), without being too fashion forward. I assume once the lapels break closer to the buttoning point, you'll get a nicer, longer lapel line.
Don't know if I'm just seeing things, but the darts on the tobacco also seem closer to the front edges of the coat. Feel like that makes them more noticeable, although I don't know if they're indeed closer to the front edge.
The only thing I dislike about the tobacco is the white pic stitching.
Edited by dieworkwear - 7/7/16 at 10:53pm
Maybe, but it's kind of evenly dispersed all over, so it would be surprising to me if it's just about light. Only Pete could say though.
Also, it looks like the tobacco reveals a slightly lower dropped right shoulder. Maybe Arrigo has a little more padding on the right shoulder to correct for that drop? Again, I assume only Pete could say.
Could be wrong, but I don't think the tobacco has higher hip pockets. It may be less tall, but they both end evenly with the lowest buttonhole.
The pick stitching on the brown is the same color, but because the RAF is more mottled, the stitching is more hidden. Indeed, when I was there he was working on a sweet herringbone overcoat that had the same style "puntino" & I could hardly tell it was there.
Hip pockets end at the same height (at the buttonhole) but begin at different heights. Arrigo's begins closer to the hem. His pockets are curvier, but less angled. Also, his chest patch pocket is larger and lower.
The lapels are slightly different; Arrigo's is higher, while Palmisiano's is lower.
Personally, I like both, but if I could chose:
Palmisciano's shoulders (slightly extended)
Palmisciano's lapel (lower gorge)
Arrigo's patch pocket roundness (less square)
Palmisciano's patch pocket angle
Arrigo's drape through the chest
Note that the lapel lines and the shape of the quarters are practically identical. I like that a lot.
I have heard "lama" ("blade").
Another term for drape is "drappeggio".
I think that "piega" (that is correct but generic) is more a Neapolitan word.
A interesting thing is that over Arrigo,also others tailors of Messina have drape on the coats.
The reason is that the great Messinese tailor of 40s,50s,60s and 70s Gioacchino Pirri,that formed generations of Messinesi tailors had a drape cut.
Here some information about west Sicilian tailors in 60s:
Here a Giacchino Pirri (Messina)
fresco coat cut in 1957.
This drape feature in Messinese tailoring can be strange,and yes absurdly can be remember a bit Anderson & Sheppard.
But i think that the first inspiration of Giacchini Pirri was Scholte.
A think to know is that the Sicilian upper class was Anglophile until to madness,and that many hers members were of English Origin (All that were remained in Sicily after the Napoleonic wars because for ten years Sicily was a sort of British protectorate;In Messina for exemple were the Piers,the Sanderson,the Withaker,the Aders,the Grill,the Kilbourne,and others).
The work of finest British tailors were well know (and argument of endless discussions in the clubs).
Pirri had also some faithful customers from UK back in 50s and 60s.
Under Pirri were trained lots of tailors,and the drape style is become the main feature of the old school.
But i have see also some tailors that cut a more clean chest.