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East Sicily Tailors - Page 15

post #211 of 362
Thread Starter 
I just tried both on, and while both fit fine, there are style differences between the two tailors. Then again, they share similar characteristics.

Arrigo's jacket has plenty of drape and has a bit of a skirt, while Palmisciano's has practically no drape at all, a very clean chest, and a skirt that hugs the hips. Of course, these are standard and can obviously be adjusted, but it's interesting to see the "house style" of the individual sarto. Both have very nicely curved quarters, and both do spalla camicia in the same subtle manner.

I'll post pics illustrating the differences tomorrow.
post #212 of 362
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


(An aside, does Attolini really do their pick stitching as lines? I would be surprised).

It's the same for La Vera SN in my experience, although I don't have any images to hand as I've never photographed their stuff.
post #213 of 362
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ich_Dien View Post


It's the same for La Vera SN in my experience, although I don't have any images to hand as I've never photographed their stuff.

Those look like dots to me. Or at the very least, not lines in the sense that Pete's jacket has lines.
post #214 of 362
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


Those look like dots to me. Or at the very least, not lines in the sense that Pete's jacket has lines.
post #215 of 362
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ich_Dien View Post


Yea, that doesn't look good to me.
post #216 of 362
post #217 of 362
Local weather permitting, I'll be on a flight to Palermo tomorrow.
post #218 of 362
I think I'm pointing out the obvious here but...there's not a different technique to doing lines vs dots. The dots are just small lines. So it's a continuum rather than a dichotomy.
post #219 of 362
Quote:
Originally Posted by chobochobo View Post

Local weather permitting, I'll be on a flight to Palermo tomorrow.
do you plan to visit some tailor? I'm from Palermo and could give you some advice if you need it.
Feel free to send me a pm if you wish.
post #220 of 362
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ich_Dien View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


Those look like dots to me. Or at the very least, not lines in the sense that Pete's jacket has lines.

What is visible here is both the underside, (saddle stitch above the buttonhole)  and on the face of the cloth, ( pic stitch, below the buttonhole) view of the hand stitch.

To pic stitch a visible small dot you create a long stitch on the under side of the cloth. the top stitch on the lapel has the long stitch under the lapel but at the button you switch to the top/face side of the jacket. Easier way to grasp this is if the lapel is lifted and laid flat you will see the long stitch under the lapel from the top of the lapel to the button/buttonhole and then the smaller dot stitch on the jacket edge from the buttonhole down to hem.

 

Long top stitching is called a "saddle stitch" and is a stylistic choice.

post #221 of 362
Thread Starter 
I threw these on at the end of a long day, so no comments about disappearing sleeves or wrinkles (the tobacco just arrived the other day & needs to be ironed, and the left sleeve puckering went away after the pic was taken).

This is to illustrate style differences of essentially the same jacket. Both are fresco, three roll two, patch pockets, puntino, two different tailors, both from eastern Sicily. What do you see?


Edited by UrbanComposition - 7/8/16 at 6:12am
post #222 of 362

@UrbanComposition  So interesting to see the two jackets side by side. They're more different than I expected. Thank you for doing this. 

post #223 of 362
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

What do you see?
 

 

 

Two nice jackets.  I prefer the shape of tobacco patch pockets. 

post #224 of 362
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post
 

 

 

Two nice jackets.  I prefer the shape of tobacco patch pockets. 

 

I actually prefer the patch pockets on the RAF Blue.

post #225 of 362
Quote:
Originally Posted by bebop d View Post
 

 

I actually prefer the patch pockets on the RAF Blue.

 

 

If I could mix, it would be the chest pocket of the blue and the hip of the tobacco.  They are both really nice and most importantly, look like they fit great.

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