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East Sicily Tailors - Page 12

post #166 of 376
Thread Starter 
I know. Can't wait to get them. At least it'll be the season, unlike the flannel. Although flannel can be worn year round in San Francisco.
post #167 of 376

@UrbanComposition - and everyone else who has contributed - thank-you for the kind of thread that I thought had vanished from SF! Wonderful stuff.

post #168 of 376
Fantastic share, I'll be heading to Sicily in August to visit family and I'm greatly looking forward to it. Excellent garments, will have to explore the tailoring on my next trip as it may be hard to find the time, or actually find any tailors around in August smile.gif
post #169 of 376
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wes Bourne View Post

^ Forgot: I'd rather risk being 'one of those customers everyone complains about' than being unhappy with results because of miscommunication. Tbh, I don't think the alteration guys mind. If anything, they always seem happy that I like their work and keep coming back to them.
who do you use for buttonholes?
post #170 of 376
Great write up Peter! Jackets look fantastic as well and cant wait to see the other 2 come in
post #171 of 376
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

In Naples it's traditional to have different buttons on the jackets and the pants, since it's "sartoriale" to have the pants and jacket made in different places rather than in one factory, and therefore the different trim shows that it's bespoke (at least this is what Dionisio from Formosa explained to me).

I had a 3 piece made by NSM and the buttons on the vest are different than the jacket. Mina explained it that way (above) and that it gave it more "depth/style" (bit lost is translation there). Still not sure how I feel about it, but I don't care enough currently to bother with a change.
post #172 of 376
^ Have to say, both of these sound like ways to justify difficult-to-manage production chains. If a tailor were to do everything in-house, I doubt he or she would make these items with different buttons for the sake of showing something was made custom/ not rtw.
post #173 of 376
No argument here, my BS meter went off for sure, but there are other things in life I let myself get upset about. And I was otherwise quite happy with the outcome.
post #174 of 376
Having dealt with NSM, I think DWW is likely correct.
post #175 of 376
Thread Starter 
Both tailors mentioned they'd be happy to receive cloth and make/send suits now that they have measurements. Has anyone else done this? A little voice inside me tells me that not having a fitting, even with measurements, is less than ideal. Still, very convenient.
post #176 of 376
UC, it is really hit or miss and you won't know until you try it. I have had only one instance where the tailor nailed the follow up jacket without a fitting. In other cases, I needed a full menu of fittings for follow on garments -- as if the first garment had never been made.

You have better odds of success without fittings if you know that the same person(s) who made your first suit will be cutting and making your second one. If there is no consistency (as in the case with NSM), you may get an unsatisfying result.
post #177 of 376
Thread Starter 
Both are pretty much a one man show, with wife/sister helping out.
post #178 of 376

UC, in your experience, how are the East Sicily tailors stylistically different from the Neopolitans?

post #179 of 376
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

Both tailors mentioned they'd be happy to receive cloth and make/send suits now that they have measurements. Has anyone else done this? A little voice inside me tells me that not having a fitting, even with measurements, is less than ideal. Still, very convenient.

No fittings are quite suboptimal. I've tried it with Chan and went back to doing fittings. Different cloths perform differently, some may stretch more and others may shrink more. For example, some tailors like to add extra length for linen trousers to compensate for the shortening secondary to the wrinkles. To do that sight unseen is kinda tricky.
post #180 of 376
Thread Starter 
Yeah, I may just send him cloth 2-3 months before my next trip and have a fitting for adjustments once I arrive. That might be the best middle ground.

Arrigo and Palmisciano differ from each other but both do soft tailoring Napoli-style. I'd say Arrigo is more stylish, but I haven't yet had a DB by Palmisciano so the jury's still out. Both are subtle. Less outlandish than the Pitti-esque super spalla camicia sleevehead seen on the blogosphere.
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