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Structured suit + full chest

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 

I am thinking of commissioning a suit in some months later in Savile Row, London (particularly when I save enough for a bespoke one!). I hope that anyone can help me choose a tailor that fits my style. My particular style consists of:




1. STRUCTURED AND BROAD SHOULDER (like mr.Reagan's shoulder below, i don't know if his shoulder's naturally broad or it's broad because of the suit construction). And for the shoulder, I don't mind if it is roped or not (although i prefer roped one)









2. FULL CHEST, with a touch of SWEELED CHEST (like Henry Poole or Dege & Skinner, since I haven't seen any drape cut like A&S in real life so I don't know how its chest swells and whether it suits my style) and a CONVEX LINE that connects between waist and armscye (I circle it in the picture of DB suit below). Some people may suggest me a more drape cut. However, I don't like soft tailoring, since i grow up in a world surrounded by structured suit and I prefer a power look, rather than a dandy look. Moreover, i just need a touch of swelling like D&S and Henry Poole's house styles








 + I don't like the straight or concave line between waist and armscye like below:







This is the part that makes me consider the most since for a house-style a structured suit often goes with clean chest and soft suit goes with more drape, full chest. Although most SR tailors advertise that they can cut any shape you one, but when I asked a blogger about this, he said it was 50/50 chance that either they can or cannot cut my preferred chest shape.





3/ For the SKIRT: I prefer it flares right below the waist but becomes straighter when it comes down and completely straight at the end of the suit coat, like the skirt of mr. Butler blue DB suit above. I notice that a SB suit will have a more flared skirt than DB, but i wonder if a SB suit coat can achieve my preference.





4/ TROUSERS: I want a tailor who is more experienced with SLIM CUT as well as BOW LEG. Actually, I don't have a bow leg but i have a flat feet, which makes me walk like a duck (duck-like feet, where my 2 feet are nearly perpendicular with each other). My effort to make my feet nearly parallel results in my thighs curving towards outside, which looks quite similar to bow leg.






In general, my style results from my interest in power look. Initially, I was thniking of Chittleborough & Morgan (C&M) and Dege and Skinner (D&S):






a) C&M:





   + Pros:


      . Consisting of many young members with a house style of broad, bellied lapel (which i really like) which I may use for a more casual jacket (after this first commission) as I don't want to shift between tailors for each type of jacket.




      . Beautiful fitted back of the jacket which i have never seen any other tailor achieved (picture below).









      . Experience in slim trousers, which may due to the root from cutting 1970s suit.


      . Ultra-structered suit (my taste)


      . Many SR tailor said that C&M put more effort in their product than other tailors on the row.



   + Cons:


      . It is not neccesarily a disadvantage, but their silhoutte is a close cut to a person's body, which makes me doubt if they can cut my required chest as chest, alongside with shoulder are hardest parts to deal with when making a suit.




b) D&S:



    + Pros:


       . Their house-style is just nearly the same to mine (full chest + structureed, borad shoulder)



    +  Cons:


        . They're not favor of wide, bellied peak lapel. As I said, I want to stick to a tailor will make all of my suits and blazers.


        . Few reviews on internet, which makes me wonder if the can achieve such a back of the jacket like C&M.


        . Quite a traditional tailor, which can perfectly make me a formal suit, but may not achieve a more stylish, trendy aspect (which i'm gonna use for my casual blazer for future commission) that good (eg. slim trousers, broad, bellied peak lapel, etc.)


        . An institution. IMO, with a small tailor house or independent tailor you can achieve cheaper price and approach the master cutter and tailor easier, while with an institution there are chanced that you will work with less experienced cutter (as they have several cutters) and consequently the quality is not at its highest.






Now, I have some questions that hopefully you guys can help me with:


1) With my preference style, the analysis of both tailors above and yor own experience, which one should I choose?


2) Since my i have more interest with C&M, if i commission a suit from them, I wonder if the can cut my preferred chest and style in overall.


3) Any suggestion of any other tailor?






I want to show many thanks in advance to those who can give me any advise. Thank you!

Edited by TriTTran - 5/10/16 at 8:35pm
post #2 of 7
Most probably Chittleborough & Morgan will be more too your taste.

Two things to note:-

1) In order to get the chest and shoulder cut you want, the best way is to actively ask questions to the fitter, and do not day-dream in fitting.

2) Trust your eye rather than what blogger tells you.
post #3 of 7
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

... and do not day-dream in fitting.

What do you mean by saying not daydreaming in fitting? Do you mean:

1) Concentrate in fittings to see if they cut my right style?


2) Do not dreaming of silhoutte that they cannot achieve?
post #4 of 7
I think Huntsman might work for you.

post #5 of 7
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

I think Huntsman might work for you.


Their style is fabulous, and my preferences mostly stem from theirs. However, when I went to Savile Row I was more appealing to Henry Poole and D&S because of their a little bit swelled and full chest, while Huntsman's is cut clean and closer to the chest.Its quite confused since the jackets Huntsman show in their manequinns have quite different cut from the pictures you show to me (I assume u were in those pics). I think any SR tailor can achieve a full chest right, given that it's so called c"classic cut"? Btw if I go for "Huntsman" which tailor should I go to, Richard Anderson or Huntsman?

post #6 of 7
^ If you were looking at mannequins in the Huntsman store I assume you were looking at ready to wear garments rather than bespoke. Everything I own from Huntsman has the swelled chest you see in my pictures. I have a friend who wears Richard Anderson. The suits look great on him but I don't think they look much like Huntsman. Apples and oranges as far as I'm concerned.
post #7 of 7
Originally Posted by TriTTran View Post

What do you mean by saying not daydreaming in fitting? Do you mean:

1) Concentrate in fittings to see if they cut my right style?


2) Do not dreaming of silhoutte that they cannot achieve?

I generally think a "silhoutte" is achieved by cutter following your body with his personal taste on tight/loose. Therefore a "silhoutte" should be unique.

Concentrate during the fitting so you can ask tailor any questions, or answering tailors' question to you properly.

I have seen few people just mumble rubbish when the tailor ask them questions in respect of the design of the baste fitting. Actually, they do have specific reference but failed to communicate properly.

I think the above are the sort of situation that people should avoid.
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