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Overcoat length on shorter guy... - Page 2

post #16 of 34
i don't think it's 2 different trains of thoughts, i just think qasimkhan is wrong, and here is why. with a shorter length coat, you show more of your legs. if you wear slim pants (which i assume you do because you are shorter), then it'll give the eye more vertical visual. if you have a longer coat, your legs will mostly be covered, and your torso will appear to be elongated, making your legs appear even shorter than they already are. long torso + shorter appearing legs = you appear shorter.
post #17 of 34
Here's what Andy has to say in his CD: Length Dress coats should cover the knees. Above the knee makes you look heavier. If you like a longer style then go for 6 to 8 inches below the knee (midcalf). The length of the coat needs to balance with the bulk of the chest (overcoat with a suit jacket). Plus you're wearing the coat for warmth so why let the wind and cold chill your knees. Flusser says the same thing, although I don't have the book with me. Steve
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickonatree View Post
i don't think it's 2 different trains of thoughts, i just think qasimkhan is wrong, and here is why. with a shorter length coat, you show more of your legs. if you wear slim pants (which i assume you do because you are shorter), then it'll give the eye more vertical visual. if you have a longer coat, your legs will mostly be covered, and your torso will appear to be elongated, making your legs appear even shorter than they already are. long torso + shorter appearing legs = you appear shorter.
post #18 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taxler View Post
I've never seen an overcoat in a short. Do they not exist, or do stores just not stock them?
Both BB and Burberry stock overcoats in "short" sizes. I am 5'6" and wear a 40S jacket. Having tried on identical 38R and 38S overcoats (I downsized too), the short versions look far more flattering and proportional. I would seek these out instead of altering a regular. However, all traditionally cut (A-shape) overcoats and trench coats tend to make the vertically challenged look "squatty." Tapered versions are far more flattering, IMHO.
post #19 of 34
Thread Starter 
Nowhere I went had 36S coats (any 38's were too large, think I even read hear you can downsize overcoats).

So, 36R, the only one, seemed best I could find. I could happen to go online, but again, then I can't even try the thing on... so would be guessing. Unless someone knows of an overcoat for under 300 that would fit well on someone who was 5'5" and 135 pounds.

I mean, I assume the R vs. the S in the style I have isn't greatly different in button placement and pocket placement, right? That's the big question I have, for a coat that is meant to be long anyway, how much does cutting off say 5" do to throw off proportions? If the answer is nothing...

Then I assume a R with 5" cutt off would like jsut as good as a S.

I'd love if they just stocked 36S overcoats, but couldn't find any at the few stores I went to.

Also, it'd need to be under 300 also... since don't got much to spend on an overcoat.

If someone of my stature can vouch for a certain 36S coat fitting well and what not, then show me a link to where I can get one online and I might be willing to try that out.
post #20 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qasimkhan View Post
It sounds to me as though the length is about right. The bottom of the overcoat should be at the bottom of the knees or even a bit lower. The longer the overcoat, the taller it makes you look, although you don't want it so long that it drags on the ground when you are walking up or down stairs.

I would disagree with this.

The man is only 5"5 so I doubt he has a lot of leg to show off beneath that coat. So, if it's going below his knees he'll maybe have a few inches of legs and then feet. This will essentially look like an overcoat + shoes.
post #21 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Qasimkhan View Post
Here's what Andy has to say in his CD:


Length Dress coats should cover the knees. Above the knee makes you look heavier. If you like a longer style then go for 6 to 8 inches below the knee (midcalf). The length of the coat needs to balance with the bulk of the chest (overcoat with a suit jacket). Plus you're wearing the coat for warmth so why let the wind and cold chill your knees.

a dress coat you wear to cover your suit. correct me if i'm wrong, but i'm pretty sure the OP is asking about a casual overcoat, as nowhere does he say anything about wearing a suit underneath. anything that is overly boxy or bulky will make the shorter man look even more shorter and stockier, regardless of length of jacket. like i said before, the longer the jacket, the more room it has to billow and be boxy at the bottom, which, logically, makes him look shorter. the reason to make it shorter is so that it appears trimmer and slimmer.

also, the OP said that the original coat was supposed to hit about knee height for the 5'10" man, whereas it probably hits him 5" down his shin. this again tells me that it's certainly not a "full dress coat," and was certainly not meant to be worn that way.

and to the OP - maybe you'd want to purchase a carcoat instead, as opposed to a full overcoat or trench? carcoats hit right past the crotch, ends up around mid-thigh.
post #22 of 34
To be honest I personally think that the OP should opt for a more cropped coat, nothing too extreme or trendy but shorter than a normal person in order to lengthen out his proportions.
post #23 of 34
You are worrying too much. If you are in an environment where an extra inch or two of coat below your knee inspires hatred among your peers, then you need to return to the novel American Psycho where you belong.

Ask your friends how you look with the coat on before you go cutting it up.
post #24 of 34
please do not shorten it now. wear the coat this season then make up your mind.
the longer length may turn out to be just the right amount of protection from the winter wind you need. if that length really bothers you it can always be shortened.
you do expect it to last a few years right?
post #25 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickonatree View Post
a dress coat you wear to cover your suit. correct me if i'm wrong, but i'm pretty sure the OP is asking about a casual overcoat, as nowhere does he say anything about wearing a suit underneath. anything that is overly boxy or bulky will make the shorter man look even more shorter and stockier, regardless of length of jacket. like i said before, the longer the jacket, the more room it has to billow and be boxy at the bottom, which, logically, makes him look shorter. the reason to make it shorter is so that it appears trimmer and slimmer.

also, the OP said that the original coat was supposed to hit about knee height for the 5'10" man, whereas it probably hits him 5" down his shin. this again tells me that it's certainly not a "full dress coat," and was certainly not meant to be worn that way.

and to the OP - maybe you'd want to purchase a carcoat instead, as opposed to a full overcoat or trench? carcoats hit right past the crotch, ends up around mid-thigh.

Doh, I feel bad that I didn't say this previously.

It is going to be an overcoat to wear with a suit. That's why it is longer, so I did want a 3/4 coat ideally, which I am pretty sure this is, just for someone taller, making it almost full length for me.

I will also wear it more casually as well (when my leather coat might not be appropriate), but it will mainly be under a suit.

Regardless of if I leave it or keep it at/above knee, it will be longer than any suit jacket I might have.

I guess that if this is a dressier style coat than I might want to leave it?

Sorry if I caused confusion.
post #26 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lel View Post
I would disagree with this.

The man is only 5"5 so I doubt he has a lot of leg to show off beneath that coat. So, if it's going below his knees he'll maybe have a few inches of legs and then feet. This will essentially look like an overcoat + shoes.

I'd say I had about 1 foot of leg (to ankle) and than my shoe. It fell right below the knee (wasn't midcalf or anything)

If I cut it above the knee, it'd be about 5 inches off and than I'd have well, 1 foot 5 inches, lol. Again, it's a R, so meant for someone about 5 inches taller, I'd assume it was intended to be at or right above kneelength for someone taller, but now falls between that and a full length (midcalf) for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by a tailor View Post
please do not shorten it now. wear the coat this season then make up your mind.
the longer length may turn out to be just the right amount of protection from the winter wind you need. if that length really bothers you it can always be shortened.
you do expect it to last a few years right?

And I might not shorten it. I guess we'll see.

Yes, plan on it lasting a few years. So, it can always be shortened in the future. We'll see when I get the sleeves back and I can make my final judgement. Maybe I can try to get some pictures up to get feedback.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lel View Post
To be honest I personally think that the OP should opt for a more cropped coat, nothing too extreme or trendy but shorter than a normal person in order to lengthen out his proportions.

Yea, that's what I was thinking. I mean, I like a long coat. I just don't want something too long. This one, being right below knee, was JUST too long I felt... especially when I went wanting a 3/4 (which from what I understand is above knee).
post #27 of 34
i think the best thing right now is to post a PICTURE.
post #28 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by a tailor View Post
please do not shorten it now. wear the coat this season then make up your mind.
the longer length may turn out to be just the right amount of protection from the winter wind you need. if that length really bothers you it can always be shortened.
you do expect it to last a few years right?

Will do, though won't be getting the overcoat back in like a week or so. I am tempted to call and get it sooner though... simply because I will be wearing this overcoat for second round interviews only a few days after I get it back (I'm a college student).

If I decide it'd be better to tailor the length, it'd be nice to be able to do so before those interviews... wonder I can stop by or call and see if they can speed it up. They definitely can, they just give themselves time by letting the thing sit there until they want to do it, lol.
post #29 of 34
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lel View Post
I would disagree with this. The man is only 5"5 so I doubt he has a lot of leg to show off beneath that coat. So, if it's going below his knees he'll maybe have a few inches of legs and then feet. This will essentially look like an overcoat + shoes.
I'm definitely NOT recommending that it should go down to his shoes. To the bottom of the knees or a little lower than that. Steve
post #30 of 34
I don't see what difference it makes whether it is a casual or dress overcoat - the effect is the same. If the overcoat (whether dress or casual) ends above the knees, it creates two short lines instead of one long one, thus giving the effect of making you appear shorter. If you don't believe me, try both variants and check it in the mirror. If you're tall and thin and have the coat end above the knees, you're going to emphasize two long, chicken-legs sticking out of the overcoat. I just can't imagine a scenario under which you would want an overcoat to end above the knees. A car coat is, of course, a different matter. It hugs the waist and thighs more closely (compared to the way an overcoat is far from the legs), so it doesn't tend so strongly to divide a person in half (although it does to a certain extent).
Quote:
Originally Posted by stickonatree View Post
a dress coat you wear to cover your suit. correct me if i'm wrong, but i'm pretty sure the OP is asking about a casual overcoat, as nowhere does he say anything about wearing a suit underneath. anything that is overly boxy or bulky will make the shorter man look even more shorter and stockier, regardless of length of jacket. like i said before, the longer the jacket, the more room it has to billow and be boxy at the bottom, which, logically, makes him look shorter. the reason to make it shorter is so that it appears trimmer and slimmer. also, the OP said that the original coat was supposed to hit about knee height for the 5'10" man, whereas it probably hits him 5" down his shin. this again tells me that it's certainly not a "full dress coat," and was certainly not meant to be worn that way. and to the OP - maybe you'd want to purchase a carcoat instead, as opposed to a full overcoat or trench? carcoats hit right past the crotch, ends up around mid-thigh.
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