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Can someone clarify - neopolitan tailoring - spalla camicia vs mappina?

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 

Regarding the jacket shoulder, Ive heard both terms utilised by neopolitan tailors.

Could someone provide key differences/explanation? From my understanding both refer to the shirred'waterfall' effect of the soft shoulder? spalla camicia / mappina?

post #2 of 8

No idea, and this question is too complicated to take to the menswear advice forum.  I'll bump this to the top instead.

post #3 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by dng992 View Post
 

Regarding the jacket shoulder, Ive heard both terms utilised by neopolitan tailors.

Could someone provide key differences/explanation? From my understanding both refer to the shirred'waterfall' effect of the soft shoulder? spalla camicia / mappina?

 

 

I'm pretty sure it's two ways to say the same thing.  

post #4 of 8
Mappina refers to the shirring. Spalla camicia just means that the seam allowance at the armhole is pressed open, like on a shirt.
post #5 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post

Mappina refers to the shirring. Spalla camicia just means that the seam allowance at the armhole is pressed open, like on a shirt.

Both seam allowances are typically pressed toward the coat for a spalla camicia, rather than pressed open or toward the sleeve. There is also very little, if any structure.
post #6 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post

Both seam allowances are typically pressed toward the coat for a spalla camicia, rather than pressed open or toward the sleeve. There is also very little, if any structure.

Whoops, yes, sorry, I meant towards the coat, as you say. Thank you for the correction. But the mappina is a separate thing.
post #7 of 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by unbelragazzo View Post


Whoops, yes, sorry, I meant towards the coat, as you say. Thank you for the correction. But the mappina is a separate thing.

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferyd View Post


Both seam allowances are typically pressed toward the coat for a spalla camicia, rather than pressed open or toward the sleeve. There is also very little, if any structure.

 

 

Thanks for the info.

post #8 of 8
Does the distinction, if any, actually matter?
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