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[Dinner Suit 7 Tuxedo] Henry Poole, A&S, Gives and Hawkes and others (bespoke) or MTM

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 

Hi everyone !

First of all, as this is my first post, thanks to the community that I recently discovered here for bringing that mine of information to every readers. It really helps when trying to understand how bespoke, mtm and the like work for guys like me, who simply put, have absolutely no clue about it, but are eagger to learn.

 

Now, here is my question: in the event of my wedding to be, I have the dream to invest in my first bespoke / mtm suit ever (mtm as a second option as bespoke is a bit more expansive than expected, read below).

The wedding schedule is in its early stage, and is likely to start during the afternoon, but the part we give most importance to will take place in the evening, in a castle, which is why the bride and myself agreed on a Black Tie dresscode, maybe starting a tad too early indeed. Anyway, I'm not here to discuss wether the desscode is proper regarding the time of the day.

 

The suit I want has to be according to the setting described above, so obviously it will be a dinner suit, or "tuxedo". I've contacted a few houses (Henry Poole, A&S, Gives and Hawkes) for quotations on bespoke tuxedo, and I've been a bit surprised with the results.
The first thing surpsing me is the difference in the starting price there is with a more usual suit:
Where a bespoke suit starts between 3500£ to 4000£ for most expansive houses, the starting price of a bespoke tuxedo is over 5000£. So I wondered why is that so, would anyone with enough knowledge explain this please?
Another point which surprised me: of all the "big houses" I've contacted, Henry Poole, which is the oldest, has the most Warrants, and basically invented the DJ, has the cheapest starting price (!), way cheaper than A&S or Gieves and Hawkes for instance. I was really surprised by this, I would have expected them to be more expansive. Anyone with an explaination to this?
Any advice on which house to go for a tuxedo, considering that I'm rather tall and broad shouldered?

 

And now, to the point that I don't really want to ask, but sadly have to. As I said, the price gap between a bespoke suit and tuxedo took me by surprise, and did go past my budget limit, so I probably won't be able to afford bespoke (unless my next raise is really good). From what I've read / seen, I'm not really enclined to try Graham Browne as a newbie not really able to tell the cutter specific points about fit / needs, but 1000-2000£ would totally be in my price range.
So let's speak MTM and RTW. Any good advice on both for a tuxedo? Some place to go, or to avoid regarding them?

 

Thanks again for your time and patience answering.

post #2 of 12
I think you should just bite the bullet and get a bespoke dinner suit (granted with good weight and respectable fabric).

For example, my bespoke tux in old Dormeuil Tonik is pretty much indestructible and had last for 4-5 years without showing much of wear.

Also using Savile Row for dinner suit has the advantage to choice a wide range of silk facing which makes your garment truly special.

On the other hand, I have seen too many MTM operation making a dinner jacket as like a suit jacket, and in unsuitable fabrics, just because the client says so.

BTW, I should mind you that you should also get a bespoke dinner shirt, a starched or correctly ribbed front and collar, custom fit and voile sleeves really makes a difference.
Edited by add911_11 - 4/19/16 at 6:42am
post #3 of 12

I find this sort of 'advice' not very helpful. The OP has clearly given a budget and you are recommending spending 3-5 times that amount? It's like asking whether I should get a Mazda Miata or Subaru BRZ as an entry-level sports car and being told to buy a Porsche 911. 

 

Arnianor--unless you are very difficult to fit, at your price point and (relative) inexperience, I'd strongly suggest trying on a number of different RTW dinner suits first, unless you've already done that. Even if you end up going MTM or bespoke, this will help you develop a sense of what you like and what works on you. If you haven't already found this site, I recommend that you check it out.

 

Congratulations, by the way!

post #4 of 12
Given tux is something one dont often replace (unless weight changes), I honestly think tux is always worth to get it bespoke rather than regret it later.

Further tux has a more confined design features, so a clueness customer (and I think OP aint one of them) can't really go too wrong with it.

Fit wise, some common sense will do, it is not rocket science.
post #5 of 12

I just think that when posters give us a clear budget as in this case, we should try to respect that. When I got married I was a graduate student making $20K a year. A bespoke tux just would not have made any sense at the time for me, regardless of how often I would use it later. And while I've been lucky to keep my weight about the same since my wedding, it is clearly not the case for most men

 

Also, while fit is not rocket science, if it were only a matter of 'common sense' then we wouldn't be seeing all of the posts that we do asking for advice on fit and the fit disasters that we see on a daily basis. It may seem easy to you now but it isn't easy for everyone, especially at first. Finally even though there is more constraint with regards to dinner suits, there are still a number of stylistic choices to be made: DB vs SB, black vs midnight blue, peak vs shawl, lapel size, facing, waist covering, etc etc. All the more reason not to jump straight to MTM or bespoke, and get acquainted with the RTW options first. 

post #6 of 12
Thread Starter 


Thanks for the answer guys.
Budget wise: as I said, 1-2k£ isn't a problem, 4k£ was already a challenge to pay, but I could have covered it, 5-6k£ is high, especially consideringIs still have to travel to London from my home country for most tailors.


About RTW: Sadly, I already tried a few things of the rack, but with a 48-50" (more towards 50) chest and 6'4" tall there isn't much choice usually.

Shirts are even worse, with 18.5" neck size most shops in my area don't even order them on request. I either have to be really lucky or go MTM.

This is why I skipped this option and immediatly asked about MTM, and which brand / tailor to favour.

post #7 of 12


I can certainly understand and respect your desire to go bespoke, especially if you are not of a size that fits within the standard range of RTW or even MTM sizes. I can't speak to pricing, but you should also look at Steed Bespoke, a well-regarded firm used by quite a few members here (including me). I believe they have an "introductory package" for first-time clients. 

post #8 of 12
I would definitely recommend that you talk to Steed. They made a beautiful double breasted dinner jacket for me a while back (photos on their blog and also on putthison i think). Pricing is for bespoke is in the £4K range but they also do mtm

R-O-T
post #9 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arnianor View Post
 

Hi everyone !

First of all, as this is my first post, thanks to the community that I recently discovered here for bringing that mine of information to every readers. It really helps when trying to understand how bespoke, mtm and the like work for guys like me, who simply put, have absolutely no clue about it, but are eagger to learn.

 

Now, here is my question: in the event of my wedding to be, I have the dream to invest in my first bespoke / mtm suit ever (mtm as a second option as bespoke is a bit more expansive than expected, read below).

The wedding schedule is in its early stage, and is likely to start during the afternoon, but the part we give most importance to will take place in the evening, in a castle, which is why the bride and myself agreed on a Black Tie dresscode, maybe starting a tad too early indeed. Anyway, I'm not here to discuss wether the desscode is proper regarding the time of the day.

 

The suit I want has to be according to the setting described above, so obviously it will be a dinner suit, or "tuxedo". I've contacted a few houses (Henry Poole, A&S, Gives and Hawkes) for quotations on bespoke tuxedo, and I've been a bit surprised with the results.
The first thing surpsing me is the difference in the starting price there is with a more usual suit:
Where a bespoke suit starts between 3500£ to 4000£ for most expansive houses, the starting price of a bespoke tuxedo is over 5000£. So I wondered why is that so, would anyone with enough knowledge explain this please?
Another point which surprised me: of all the "big houses" I've contacted, Henry Poole, which is the oldest, has the most Warrants, and basically invented the DJ, has the cheapest starting price (!), way cheaper than A&S or Gieves and Hawkes for instance. I was really surprised by this, I would have expected them to be more expansive. Anyone with an explaination to this?
Any advice on which house to go for a tuxedo, considering that I'm rather tall and broad shouldered?

 

And now, to the point that I don't really want to ask, but sadly have to. As I said, the price gap between a bespoke suit and tuxedo took me by surprise, and did go past my budget limit, so I probably won't be able to afford bespoke (unless my next raise is really good). From what I've read / seen, I'm not really enclined to try Graham Browne as a newbie not really able to tell the cutter specific points about fit / needs, but 1000-2000£ would totally be in my price range.
So let's speak MTM and RTW. Any good advice on both for a tuxedo? Some place to go, or to avoid regarding them?

 

Thanks again for your time and patience answering.

Hi,

 

And welcome.  I would think that the Steed recommendation (http://steed.co.uk/) is certainly worth considering, especially given your atypical sizing needs.

 

I am going to move this thread to the "Menswear Advice" forum, where a lot of noobs will be able to learn from your having asked the question.  Thanks for that!  Hope that you'll post the results, whatever you decide on, here in the "Classic menswear" forum, when you get your dinner jacket.

 

Cheers,

 

Fok.

post #10 of 12

Worth checking out Cad & the Dandy. Their prices might be more in your comfort zone.

 

http://www.cadandthedandy.co.uk/process/prices/

post #11 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arnianor View Post

...especially considering I still have to travel to London from my home country for most tailors.

What's your home country?
post #12 of 12
Thread Starter 

Hi guys, thanks for the advices, I will look that up.

 

I'm from Neuchâtel, Switzerland. I see you're from Germany, so I guess that's why you're going to advise me. I've seen a nice review on Arnulf, but it doesn't change much to go to London or to Berlin from here price wise.

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