Just a quick intro, a month ago I bought my first custom suit overseas as a baby step for learning about bespoke suits and tailoring. I kinda scoured the web as I went along looking for guides, tips, etc on what type of suit to make, talking to the tailor, etc... After an exhaustive search, I found some really high quality 100% worsted wool and a decent tailor and after many fittings and frustrations, got my suit.
Anyway, i've been on here learning about care and maintenance. Bought a Kent brush for brushing and this is where I've run into issues. After reading how to's, I brushed the suit and I'm completely not happy with the outcome. Before brushing, the wool was really nice and smooth with a slight satin-ish sheen to it. I loved it! After brushing, it has this nap-py, fluffy sort of appearance. I don't like it one bit. Mind you, I do recall most pure wool suits I've encountered in the past have this nappy feel, I don't understand the reasoning behind it. Why would one ditch the nice smooth, satin sheen look for a rough, nappy fuzzy look? I understand the reason behind brushing ones suit but I don't like this side-effect. Any thoughts?
Second, I dont understand what nap is. I thought nap and fluff / fuzz where synonymous but apparently not. In the brushing how-to guides, it states to brush with the nap, then against it. And to never brush perpendicular to the nap. So what is nap? How do I find it? What's the difference between nap and grain? On my suit, the "grain" runs sort of diagonal at about a 45° angle going low to high to the right.
Thanks for your help.
Sidenote, I never really found a comprehensive suit/tailoring guide, so if anyone knows of one, I'd love to get access to educate myself about this craft.
TL;DR: Please read it.