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Suit brushing concerns. Nap & fuzzy feel

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 
Hi everyone! I'm new here. Been absorbed in this forum for the past few weeks ever since I got my first made-to-measure (bespoke?) suit. I've learned a lot from y'all and am very grateful for everyones insights.

Just a quick intro, a month ago I bought my first custom suit overseas as a baby step for learning about bespoke suits and tailoring. I kinda scoured the web as I went along looking for guides, tips, etc on what type of suit to make, talking to the tailor, etc... After an exhaustive search, I found some really high quality 100% worsted wool and a decent tailor and after many fittings and frustrations, got my suit.

Anyway, i've been on here learning about care and maintenance. Bought a Kent brush for brushing and this is where I've run into issues. After reading how to's, I brushed the suit and I'm completely not happy with the outcome. Before brushing, the wool was really nice and smooth with a slight satin-ish sheen to it. I loved it! After brushing, it has this nap-py, fluffy sort of appearance. I don't like it one bit. Mind you, I do recall most pure wool suits I've encountered in the past have this nappy feel, I don't understand the reasoning behind it. Why would one ditch the nice smooth, satin sheen look for a rough, nappy fuzzy look? I understand the reason behind brushing ones suit but I don't like this side-effect. Any thoughts?

Second, I dont understand what nap is. I thought nap and fluff / fuzz where synonymous but apparently not. In the brushing how-to guides, it states to brush with the nap, then against it. And to never brush perpendicular to the nap. So what is nap? How do I find it? What's the difference between nap and grain? On my suit, the "grain" runs sort of diagonal at about a 45° angle going low to high to the right.

Thanks for your help.

Sidenote, I never really found a comprehensive suit/tailoring guide, so if anyone knows of one, I'd love to get access to educate myself about this craft.

TL;DR: Please read it.
post #2 of 7

About the brushing, I'll call on @Kent Wang himself.

 

What are you looking to learn about tailoring, specifically?  That might allow us to better help you.

post #3 of 7

That is definitely not normal.  Kent (what I use) makes a quality brush and I can brush (gently) my garments in every direction and have never had a problem.  It's possible that you area brushing too hard, but would I probably guess that it has to due with the quality of the wool.  Where is your MTM suit from?  BTW, a bespoke garment is custom pattern for every client and usually involves 2-3 fittings.  If you were measured and then sent a finished product or just provided measurements online, you have a MTM suit.

post #4 of 7
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

About the brushing, I'll call on @Kent Wang
 himself.

What are you looking to learn about tailoring, specifically?  That might allow us to better help you.
Thanks! Didn't know who that was but just looked him up. Pretty cool, wasn't aware designers / tailors are on here too?

So I kinda played around with this some more today and I think the more accurate term for this sort of thing is probably "raising the nap". The nappy-ness I was referring to is still there on the un-brushed areas, it's just patted down either from the production or from the press I'm guessing. Visually, the un-brushed area has a slight sheen to it vs the brushed area has a lesser sheen to it. However texture-wise is the bigger difference, the un-brushed area has a rough yet smooth feel to it vs the brushed area has a fuzzy feel to it.

As far as learning about tailoring, I'd like to understand more about fit and tailor's patterns for starters but much more. Specifically how a suit jacket should fit in terms of look and measurements and why that is. And how custom patterning is sort of done.
Edited by styleproha - 4/21/16 at 1:52am
post #5 of 7
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post

That is definitely not normal.  Kent (what I use) makes a quality brush and I can brush (gently) my garments in every direction and have never had a problem.  It's possible that you area brushing too hard, but would I probably guess that it has to due with the quality of the wool.  Where is your MTM suit from?  BTW, a bespoke garment is custom pattern for every client and usually involves 2-3 fittings.  If you were measured and then sent a finished product or just provided measurements online, you have a MTM suit.
I posted some more about it above but I used a Kent CP6 I just got. I tried the CG1 and CC20 as well and they seem to roughen it even more than the CP6. CG1 is probably easiest to use but I like the CP6 b/c it seems to be a good blend of soft and hard for a better all around brushing.

Anyway it's entirely possible that I'm brushing too hard. I'm sort of pressing down on the brush while flicking fast with some weight. Is this wrong?

I bought it on a trip to India a couple months ago. I knew that tailoring in Asia was much, much cheaper so I figured it was a good place to start with the 1st custom suit while I learn more about the craft and it'll give me a chance to play around with it as well for experience. It's definitely, probably, MTM and not bespoke, I believe lol. I hastily did all my research while over there. After some extensive searching, finally found some 100% wool at a place called Raymond. I really love the fabric! It has the Woolmark logo and Raymond is the largest textile manufacturer in India so I'm pretty confident on the quality of the material; unless someone here knows something I don't… Finding a tailor who could tailor suits was a whole other animal however. So long story short, found a tailor who's quality I was satisfied with and after numerous fittings and language barriers, got it done. He took maybe 10-15 measurements and not even sure about the patterning because the fit isn't quite where I'd like it to be. The quality and stitching is good though.
post #6 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by styleproha View Post

Anyway it's entirely possible that I'm brushing too hard. I'm sort of pressing down on the brush while flicking fast with some weight. Is this wrong?
 

 

 

You don't need to put any pressure.....light and gentle.

post #7 of 7
Thread Starter 
Anyone else have any idea why?
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