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In this thread: The suits of James Bond and whether he should always be well tailored. - Page 3

post #31 of 41
That was pretty well done in the Wolf of Wall Street. His suits are poorly fitting when he's just starting out.

leonardo-dicaprio-filming-on-location-for-the-wolf-of-wall-street-on-picture-id150742993
post #32 of 41

I would think that the MI-6 could find a good tailor in Savile Row. But apparently Tom Ford can't do it, so I guess it's not easy.

 

I do want to note that the "good" examples above are still guys that are more on the slim side. They might still have some muscle but seem to all be ectomorphs (more or less). I would like an expert opinion, but I think big chest/huge lats/large drop all make tailoring much harder. You have to either go not tight and ^wolf of wall street or tight fit where there's going to be wrinkles when moving. 

 

Please show me a counterexample!

post #33 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Wouldn't bad tailoring be better for a sort of inept character? Like some doofus at an office who struggles in everything (e.g. a lot of the side characters in the American version of The Office)? Granted, most of them would probably wear baggy Men's Warehouse kind of suits, but Ryan Howard/ BJ Novak would be the kind of guy in a poorly fitted skinny suit.

Even if Bond comes from a less privileged/ smooth background, you'd think that his character would require impeccable tailoring. The kind of guy you trust, believe in, etc.

Again, all those gangsters in The Goodfellas and Scarface were kind of like that. Guys from not so polished backgrounds that were just super skilled/ self-made/ could get away with anything. Their suits fit very well, even if they weren't "in good taste."

I think that in 2015+16, that fit is right for Craig's Bond. He is not a savile row guy. He is the stripey shirt dude who reads GQ. You would probably find him to be an insufferable douchebag
post #34 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by t3hg0suazn View Post

I would think that the MI-6 could find a good tailor in Savile Row. But apparently Tom Ford can't do it, so I guess it's not easy.

I do want to note that the "good" examples above are still guys that are more on the slim side. They might still have some muscle but seem to all be ectomorphs (more or less). I would like an expert opinion, but I think big chest/huge lats/large drop all make tailoring much harder. You have to either go not tight and ^wolf of wall street or tight fit where there's going to be wrinkles when moving. 

Please show me a counterexample!







Also, Vox. His NSM stuff isn't skinny, but it's pretty slim. And he's pretty built. I've seen him half naked, so can attest.

http://www.voxsartoria.com/tagged/napolisumisura




Edited by dieworkwear - 3/26/16 at 7:16pm
post #35 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post


I think that in 2015+16, that fit is right for Craig's Bond. He is not a savile row guy. He is the stripey shirt dude who reads GQ. You would probably find him to be an insufferable douchebag

I should add that I find the Daniel Craig Bond to be much more interesting a character than the always cool cariacature of the previous Bond's.  Especially boring and insipid, imo, was Pierce Brosnan's Bond, who was essentially just a mannekin.  I think that Timothy Dalton's was worse, but thankfully, I've managed to mostly forget him.

 

In my mind, a driven and relentless assassin should have more than a few rough edges to him.  Some of the previous Bonds just looked and acted too comfortably.  It seems like they could kill a dozen guys and then be ready in time for their afternoon tea.  That type of languid perfection leaves more bored. Craig's Bond moves and acts like a caged animal who is powerful and ugly and a bit uncomfortable, and frankly, his charm comes in spurts and is uneven and not very polished.  He, bad but expensive suits and all, is a much more interesting character.  

 

@dieworkwear is probably right in that the filmmakers just messed up a bit, or, more likely, were influenced by things like Pitti Uomo, where 95% of the suits are sized down at least one.  (Wardrobers don't live in a bubble, after all).  But I call this serendipity.

post #36 of 41
I would think that, in terms of characterization, Bond would be obsessive about how he can move in his suits, and for that reason would only be satisfied with bespoke tailoring. It's hard for me to believe that the ill-fitting suits were a conscious choice by the costumer.
post #37 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Van Veen View Post

I would think that, in terms of characterization, Bond would be obsessive about how he can move in his suits, and for that reason would only be satisfied with bespoke tailoring. It's hard for me to believe that the ill-fitting suits were a conscious choice by the costumer.

Oh, I doubt that "ill-fitting" suits were a conscious choice by the wardrobe team.  "Looks cool" was probably the goal, and by most people's standards, they succeeded.  Look in a GQ, man men's style blogs. etc... I see the approbation of members of Styleforum to be an unintended and unexpected victory.  Let's face it, Styleforum members, particularly in classic menswear, would not approve of James Bond and James Bond's style were he a real person.

post #38 of 41
If you ignore the fit, I think that much of what he wears would be SF-approved considering he style is deliberately soporific—almost all neutrals. (Don't you think the Cuccinelli khaki suit fit w/ the rust silk knit tie would easily get 25+ thumbs on WAYWRN, ignoring fit issues?) The brightest thing he wears is the red carnation on his white dinner jacket. It's nothing like the Pinterest/#menswear stuff posted above. He's probably aware of the fashions of GQ, Pitti, and #menswear (Fleming's Bond was able to name the brands of clothing people were wearing), but he wouldn't want to dress in a way that would draw attention to him. He's not a peacock.

Anyway, it's an interesting field, costume design. We're obviously very attuned to suit fit, but stuff like this is subtle and unconscious to most people. The TF fits probably look fine to most of the people watching the movie. (Personally, I'm all about overanalyzing things like this, though.)
post #39 of 41

Related I think: the suiting (and general costume choices) is much more on point in The Night Manager. I think Tom Hiddleston's suits are much better fitted and give off the "classic Bond" look/feel appropriately. There's even a scene where the tailor is taking his measurements and Hugh Laurie selects the fabrics for his bespoke suits!

post #40 of 41

Maybe bad tailoring but I did enjoy or at least thought he looked cool in the films. Yes I do like the Brioni suit from Casino Royale the most when he puts in on the bathroom but I did like the tight fit especially when he's moving around or at least the movie was, on Craig. I care more about how a suit fits, or at least I assume we all do. But I want Craig to look sorta...tight and cool in more action parts. :fu:

post #41 of 41
Quote:
Originally Posted by Van Veen View Post

If you ignore the fit, I think that much of what he wears would be SF-approved considering he style is deliberately soporific—almost all neutrals. (Don't you think the Cuccinelli khaki suit fit w/ the rust silk knit tie would easily get 25+ thumbs on WAYWRN, ignoring fit issues?) The brightest thing he wears is the red carnation on his white dinner jacket. It's nothing like the Pinterest/#menswear stuff posted above. He's probably aware of the fashions of GQ, Pitti, and #menswear (Fleming's Bond was able to name the brands of clothing people were wearing), but he wouldn't want to dress in a way that would draw attention to him. He's not a peacock.

Anyway, it's an interesting field, costume design. We're obviously very attuned to suit fit, but stuff like this is subtle and unconscious to most people. The TF fits probably look fine to most of the people watching the movie. (Personally, I'm all about overanalyzing things like this, though.)

He's not a peacock like Conor McGregor, but I could see him being quite proud of what his means can provide him, like Rashad Evans, who actually wears Tom Ford, and is proud of the fact that he can afford to do so.

 

Of course we like to analyze things...

 

Cheers,

 

Fok.

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