Actually, I got this last June... I think it's much too late for a chargeback, I should have done that long ago.
As for Samuelsohn, I did contact them right away, in June. The representative seemed really helpful, and offered to "correct the situation" as quickly as possible. I thanked her, but said that the particular Harris tweed was currently out of stock (I'd bought it myself), and that first I hoped for help getting a refund from the tailor. I asked for the MTM tag information (mysteriously removed from the jacket), and if it really was Samuelsohn's error that the arms were 1.5" too long (working cuffs, sadly). That's when she stopped answering my emails.
I got hold of her again in September by writing to the main Samuelsohn email, asking if she was there, and if she was all right. She offered to "resolve the issue" again, then vanished again, as soon as I asked some questions. Finally, I was able to phone her in December, after I got back from a trip. She offered me "a new garment". This time I wrote back suggesting that I buy a more expensive suit, and they could subtract the amount the tailor charged me. She agreed.
So I went to another place, O'Connors, to get it started. I wrote back, asking if the deal still stood, wording it specifically "to take off the amount ___ charged". She replied that the deal was still on, and asked for a copy of the original receipt. I went to O'Connors and got measured.
The next day, now that everything was all set up, she suddenly told me that she could only take off $475, at least $500 less than what she had pretty clearly offered before, and which I had clearly specified in my email. She now suggested that I write to this totally hostile tailor shop, all this time later, and try to get some of my money back, which is what I was trying to get help with in the first place. "You can CC me, but don't involve me," she said. She also suggested asking for a discount from O'Connors, the one absolutely blameless party in the matter. That really got to me.
I realize that this jacket was likely not Samuelsohn's fault, initially, and that dealing with the public is not normally her job. But after so many months of being treated so strangely, I'm pretty angry. No Samuelsohn MTM "new garment" costs as little as $475. Doesn't Samuelsohn have any interest in making sure its reputation is in good hands? She seems more concerned with maintaining a good relationship with an incompetent and destructive tailor, than about the fact that a customer has received a terrible Samuelsohn jacket and lost a lot of money.
So I have a couple of questions... can anyone suggest what I might do, and what is fair? I've been trying to be fair the whole time, but I've lost track. And just on the off chance, does anyone know how I might get someone higher up at Samuelsohn?