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A tailoring trip to Italy - Page 2

post #16 of 19

Hi, That's really interesting, what are the differences between the 2 types of patterns? 

Also, have you had any experience with Edesim, Eduardo De Simone? and what category does he fit into?

post #17 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by marcodalondra View Post


There are plenty of tailors well in their 60's that have a consolidated reputation in Naples that are charging around the price range I mentioned.

Rubinacci, Attolini, Kiton, Isaia etc are wolrdwide brands, that makes a fair share of their business on RTW items and charge over market price for bespoke.

Also, something that I keep wanting to mention, some of these RTW brands (with the exception of Rubinacci Neapolitan workshop), promote the Neapolitan jacket, however the pattern they cut it from is not the traditional, long front darted ones.

As matter of fact, although they offer hand finishing details on their garments, most of their master tailors comes from a Ready To Wear pattern drafting background. Particularly, i am worried by the people I have seen setting up on their own after leaving the Kiton Tailoring school and having made some experience in other ready to wear factories, as the jackets patterns they are cutting are not traditional Neapolitan. I have received confirmation recently that the teachers at the school comes from Pattern Drafting Ready To Wear Background, one mostly in Argentinian Factories and the other from a Woman ready to wear background (Kiton has also a good Womanswear line).

Hi, That's really interesting, what are the differences between the 2 types of patterns? 

Also, have you had any experience with Edesim, Eduardo De Simone? and what category does he fit into?

post #18 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralphie View Post

Hi, That's really interesting, what are the differences between the 2 types of patterns? 
Also, have you had any experience with Edesim, Eduardo De Simone? and what category does he fit into?

The most evident feature is the front dart running all the way to the hem of the jacket and a short under arm dart running at an angle to the pocket. Less evident to the untrained eye is the collar height and the way it hugs the wearer neck.

I have no experience with Edesim and if it was not for the numerous "brand ambassador" / "bloggers" featuring him, I would never have heard of him, so I note that he is playing that game very well.

Having seen some of his work on the net only, whilst he does indeed cut the jacket with the Neapolitan front darts, the collar often does not look to fit right or be cut the way I can expect by Volpe, Solito or Paone for example.
post #19 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Camilo View Post

Bumping this thread to ask if anyone has had any experience with Cisternino. I PM'ed CriticBespok but haven't gotten a reply. Anyone else?

Coming into this thread late, but I'm going to my third fitting with Piero Cisternino in Florence next week. Two 2-button suits with lightweight Scabal superfine wool fabrics shipped to him. Piero and his brother are very nice.

Will report back soon.
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