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First Serious Suit / Sizing and Fit

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pi34

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Side note: be weary of suits at outlets. You can find some really good deals, but you can also get ripped off. Many of the store labels, Saks Fifth Avenue for example, are actually made *specifically* for the outlet. The suits may "cost" 1600, but they were never going to sell for that and were made to sell for 200-300. That being said, some of the store brands [you need to know what you're doing] you can get really ridiculous deals on. The store brands for the major luxury department stores do have very well made suits at times.

I *primarily* sniff around S5A05 with most of my free time, and, in my opinion, the Hickey Freemans are their best consistently available value. If they fit you well, you can regularly get staples from them for ~$350-$450 or BOGO for $800-$900. They are a bit boxier though.
 
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styleophile

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+1 @Simone1

As helpful and objective a representation of ones own brand as I have seen on this site.

Kudos!
 

NateH777

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Side note: be weary of suits at outlets. You can find some really good deals, but you can also get ripped off. Many of the store labels, Saks Fifth Avenue for example, are actually made *specifically* for the outlet. The suits may "cost" 1600, but they were never going to sell for that and were made to sell for 200-300. That being said, some of the store brands [you need to know what you're doing] you can get really ridiculous deals on. The store brands for the major luxury department stores do have very well made suits at times.

I *primarily* sniff around S5A05 with most of my free time, and, in my opinion, the Hickey Freemans are their best consistently available value. If they fit you well, you can regularly get staples from them for ~$350-$450 or BOGO for $800-$900. They are a bit boxier though.
Yeah, unfortunately the Hickey Freeman's are too boxey on me. If the shoulders fit, it still can look weird on my torso.

@Simone1 : Yes, thanks for the input it's helpful. I've kind of run into a time crunch so I ordered:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019E6AHIK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

and

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0166FF1BA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I'll return whichever doesn't fit great. If worse comes to worst I'll buy the Hugo one at the store. I just don't want to drop $995 on a suit that will get discounted to the $500 but that's just where my head goes. I'm hoping the Hugo from Amazon is the same fit, just different. Now to deal with the slub pattern...
 

LA Guy

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Yeah, unfortunately the Hickey Freeman's are too boxey on me. If the shoulders fit, it still can look weird on my torso.

@Simone1 : Yes, thanks for the input it's helpful. I've kind of run into a time crunch so I ordered:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019E6AHIK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

and

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0166FF1BA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

I'll return whichever doesn't fit great. If worse comes to worst I'll buy the Hugo one at the store. I just don't want to drop $995 on a suit that will get discounted to the $500 but that's just where my head goes. I'm hoping the Hugo from Amazon is the same fit, just different. Now to deal with the slub pattern...
Just as a sidenote - Hickey Freeman has a variety of models, some boxier, some slimmer. I don't know the current models, but it's worth investigating a bit.
 

NateH777

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Just as a sidenote - Hickey Freeman has a variety of models, some boxier, some slimmer. I don't know the current models, but it's worth investigating a bit.

How exactly does one go about figuring out the fit of the various models? Do I just have to try them on? I noticed on a lot of websites (both retail and company sites) that there really isn't a good explanation of how the suits all fit differently.
 

Simone1

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Hi again,

I don't have this model in my store, so I can't know with a hundred procent certaincy what model it is - also because all those photos are retouched digitally, and clothes are pinned etc, so sometimes a regular fit suit looks exactly the same as a extra slim fit on a online website (yes, it is dumb!)

I'd say there's a 80% chance of this being a Huston Gander model though, It's a slim cut blazer, but tailored not to be too fitted. Slim-cut, mid-rise trousers with unfinished hems. Model is wearing an IT 48, and he's somewhere around 6'1. The hem width is 7.7" / 19.5 cm.. This is a wool suit with silk, which will have a distinct sheen. Being 4% it's not enough to really affect the weight of the suit, but it has a very nice look and for most people it looks more luxurious.
Slub can be in almost any material, but in this case it's a type of silk where there's a few imperfections, so to say. It is purposelly made by twisting the fabric as it is woven.. The advantage is that silk often can crease and create a bad looking suit, but slub will basically hide it. You will notice how the fabric will feel a bit rough and have an uneven texture, but it's nothing to worry about!


Now, I started out in this thread, saying that I will be objective towards my own brand - but I noticed how you linked a Boss suit and a Tiger of Sweden suit.
Tiger of Sweden is my biggest competitor right now, where I work. It is the store nearby, and it appeals a lot to the youthful generation of menswear where I live. They are known to be very fashionably in terms of cut (extremely narrow) It looks great on a model guy going out clubbing, but I wouldn't take a business man serious if he wore one of their suits. Buying Tiger of Sweden for retail price, is in my opinion not worth it. The quality isn't great for the price, and their suits are so fashion forward that they will not last as long as a classic look. Let me quickly mention the double boutonnière holes... :D

You should only opt for the Tiger of Sweden suit, if it fits you perfectly!!

Take my words here with a grain of salt, because I really hate Tiger of Sweden's style. The art of dressing is so beautiful and historical, but Tiger of Sweden basically messes around with every single idea of it.. I don't like that.
 

Simone1

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If not stated by the website, or in the store..

You can:
- Look at measurements. A good point is hem width at trousers.. Extra slim fit suits are usually 34-35 cm, and regular is 39-41.
- It is often possible to look at the pockets on the jacket, to see whether they are small or broad..
- High button stance (over natual waist) often indicates a slim fit suit)
- Often slim-fit suit pants have a lower rise and a slightly shorter length.
- Jackets often have a narrower lapel with a higher gorge
- Jackets can often be shorter in length
- Jackets often have less shoulder padding and a more soft shoulder, also less strength in chest area (Kinda like the italian house tailor style in comparison to the British traditional)
 

Simone1

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Let me emphasize that some tailors are capable of doing magic. I don't know about the alteration costs in US, but I expect them to be cheaper than in my country..

Unless you're a perfect size IT 46, you will have your trousers shortened and possibly sleeves shortened as well. Alterations are really the best "value for money" that you can every purchase when it comes to clothing..

Let me know how it goes with the two suits, if you need any help making further decisions
 

NateH777

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@Simone1

Wow, thanks so much for the info, really appreciate the time you've taken to share.

Yeah, I'm not entirely in love with the Tiger of Sweden but fit wise, I thought it'd be safer-ish.

I found out the model I tried in the store (the first one pictured) is a Huge/Genius model, if that makes sense. Not sure if they're similar at all.
 

Simone1

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Well, it really comes down to what you personally search in a suit. The style and fit says a lot about you :)

Huge/Genius is the most popular Hugo Boss model and is known for the good trim fit - Definitely a modern style for a sophisticated look!
Huge/Genius is a tiny bit more slim than Hutson Gander, but doubt it's noticeable.

And no worries, I love talking about these things with people who are interested in learning, a great cup of coffee and I'm ready to discuss all day long :D
 

IChen

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The Hugo Boss in the store looked great on you. Don't sweat so much about the discounting, or at least let it persuade to work 3 times as hard to make the money back.
 

NateH777

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So I opted for the one I got today. It also said on the tag it was a "Huge4/Genius3" suit. It's odd because it definitely is a less "slim" suit than the Huge on from the store, but I talked to a tailor and he can bring different parts in. It's a little longer too. Saved $330 though ultimately.

Suggestions though on a tie color? Here's the suit again:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019E6AHIK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

I'm wearing black shoes just a heads up, white shirt. To me the silver tie in the picture just screams "High School Prom" though.

Like does this work: https://www.thetiebar.com/product/35460sk ?

Or this (but in the regular tie, not the bowtie): http://www.amazon.com/Chambray-Stars-Cotton-Black-Pre-Tied/dp/B00L9AZILG
 
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IChen

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Do something like a simple navy/burgundy/dark purple tie for starters with like polka dots, solid knit for example.
 

Simone1

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Yeah, even though it has the same model name, it can vary a bit in measurements and overall feel of fit (materials, seasons etc)

I think you made a good decision going for that suit!

I think IChen made a very good suggestion with the tie style aswell!
 
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