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Sport coat details

post #1 of 24
Thread Starter 
I've made an appointment with W.W. Chan, when they're in San Francisco, and am interested in having a sport coat made.  One of the features I'm mulling over is a single breasted coat with peaked lapels.  Although I think it would be a distinctive flourish, I'd be interested in hearing any reactions.  I'll go with a fitted British profile, double vents, ticket pocket, slant pockets, and some sort of a plaid suitable for the city.  For reference, here's a great picture of Cary Grant in a suit with the peaked lapels:
post #2 of 24
i think peak lapels are a 'dressy' touch best reserved for suits rather than sportcoats, but it's your call to make.
post #3 of 24
Quote:
I've made an appointment with W.W. Chan, when they're in San Francisco, and am interested in having a sport coat made.  One of the features I'm mulling over is a single breasted coat with peaked lapels.  Although I think it would be a distinctive flourish, I'd be interested in hearing any reactions.  I'll go with a fitted British profile, double vents, ticket pocket, slant pockets, and some sort of a plaid suitable for the city.  For reference, here's a great picture of Cary Grant in a suit with the peaked lapels:
Completely proper. You can see it in the early half of the 20th-c, and today you may still find the style in New England and England herself.
post #4 of 24
Hardy Amies disparages them at least three times in his book "The Englishman's Suit." "Double breasted reavers on a single breasted coat." There was a niche for them in dark suits for semi-formal occasions such as Parliament, dinner clothes without the satin lapels as it were. If enjoy wearing them do so in good health. But on a sport coat, I don't think you'd find much precedent. Will
post #5 of 24
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the feedback on the lapel options. I'm torn between peaked and notched. I think the notched might have more longevity, but the peaked would be more distinctive. I appreciate your thoughtful comments.
post #6 of 24
Quote:
Hardy Amies disparages them at least three times  in his book "The Englishman's Suit." "Double breasted reavers on a single breasted coat." There was a niche for them in dark suits for semi-formal occasions such as Parliament, dinner clothes without the satin lapels as it were. If enjoy wearing them do so in good health. But on a sport coat, I don't think you'd find much precedent. Will
I'd like to get the Amies book, indeed. However, early issues of Esquire & Apparrel Arts have the peaked lapel sport jacket. So that is at least one easy precedent to which I refer.
post #7 of 24
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post #8 of 24
One of the things I enjoy about this board is that one can have spirited discussions about his sort of arcana. The 21st century equivalent of dandies idling away their afternoons at Henry Poole drinking sherry and arguing about tailoring. Will
post #9 of 24
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post #10 of 24
I've seen reproductions of the Apparel Arts sketches. Pronouncements like the one made by Amies are, to my thinking, useless, because they spring from no underlying aesthetic considerations, but are merely appeals to "tradition", which is a moving target at best. At least Alan Flusser bases his judgements on his perceptions of symmetry and balance, and historical intent of a particular detail or another.
post #11 of 24
I say to go with a high gorge, single-breasted, high stance two button or two roll three button jacket with no vent and besom pockets. Lapels of medium width. Roped Roman shoulder. Structured chest. Moderate waist suppression. But that's just my personal preference. Mileage may differ.
post #12 of 24
Quote:
with no vent and besom pockets
(Sirgarnet chokes on his claret) Sir, Surely you are not suggesting unflapped pocketing on an odd jacket. I cannot even address the concept of unvented jacketing at this time. I find, with MTM or bespoke clothing there is often a desire to add every little neat feature possible to make it look as "custom" as possible. I am not against odd or little-seen features, but everything in moderation. With the recent popularity in the RTW market of angled hacking pockets, ticket pockets, and peaked lapels on SB jacketing, I am now gravitating towards more odd and little seen features; pleated patch pockets, half-belted backs, shirred backs, etc. No more than one, or possibly two at a time though.
post #13 of 24
For what it's worth (if anything): Another quick survey of 70 or so Laurence Fellows Apparel Arts/Esquire fashion plates (1933-1938) show plenty of peaked lapel suits, both single- and double-breasted, but only three sport coats with peaked lapels. Two of these are double breasted, the third impossible to identify.
post #14 of 24
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post #15 of 24
Okay, then. Dual vents and flaps on the pockets. No ticket pocket. These are my last concessions. Personally, I like the western style jacket, with notched lapels, flapped patch pockets, a western style yoke, and a center vent. Old Sears Roebuck Catalogues have lots of these on offer. Choke on that, if you'd like.
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