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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, Baume & Mercier and more)
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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, Baume & Mercier and more) - Page 39

post #571 of 4022
Don't love the new ones. I think it's a good watch at the right price point. I do like @Dino944 suggestion of the oldest 2000 series. Very classy.

Here was mine from years and years ago




Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith T View Post

Any IWC Aquatimer fans? I don't normally think of them (or JLC) as much for hardcore sports models, but they both have a bit of tradition as such.

Those Deep Seas are pretty hot, mimo...I agree. Probably would prefer the alarm version over the chronograph myself.
post #572 of 4022
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belligero View Post

As a lesser-known-alternative diver's watch, the Vulcain Nautical Cricket has a lot going for it: legit diving history, unique movement, useful alarm complication, original design...

About the only snag is that it's 42 mm, the same as it was in 1961.

DSC_1368.jpg

It's like the Speedmaster of 300-m-rated watches in that it's visually unchanged almost six decades after its introduction, right down to the plexi crystal. Well, except that Vulcain didn't cheap out on the movement over the years. wink.gif

Good under the radar choice. It is a little awkward in terms of its functionality but definitely not a Rolex sub.

That said, I don't think I would get one. Just a matter of personal choice. Cool watch though
post #573 of 4022
Quote:
Originally Posted by tigerpac View Post

Should always take a look at the latest Planet Oceans when lurking in the dive watch waters.

As for the Blancpain: Wish they would downsize the FF as well. Loved the Tribute to the Aqua Lung version they did a few years ago but still 45mm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by firenze_rob View Post

With respect to a smaller FF, there is the 43mm bathyscaphe. I actually prefer the looks of this version more. The case is pretty sweet, but the dial may put people off. I think if you can find one for 5-6k, not a bad deal.

Pretty easy to get one of the older 40mm FF. They were generally less than 5k, but I haven't looked at them for a while. The same superb X-71 bracelet as the larger model.

left
IMG_4319_zps0c67cc92.jpg
post #574 of 4022
Or, you could try one of these:

post #575 of 4022
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belligero View Post

As a lesser-known-alternative diver's watch, the Vulcain Nautical Cricket has a lot going for it: legit diving history, unique movement, useful alarm complication, original design...

About the only snag is that it's 42 mm, the same as it was in 1961.

DSC_1368.jpg

It's like the Speedmaster of 300-m-rated watches in that it's visually unchanged almost six decades after its introduction, right down to the plexi crystal. Well, except that Vulcain didn't cheap out on the movement over the years. wink.gif

Is it true that you can't turn off the alarm? So it would sound at least once a day?
post #576 of 4022
Quote:
Originally Posted by firenze_rob View Post

Is it true that you can't turn off the alarm? So it would sound at least once a day?

I am not sure if the Vulcain functions the same way, but on my JLC Tribute to DSA, if you wind the alarm crown fully, the alarm will sound at the appointed time (on a 12 hr cadence). You can't turn it off but you just don't have to fully wind it. If you make that mistake once in the middle of the night, you will learn rather quickly. I love my DSA - the alarm function is anachronistic but super charming.
post #577 of 4022
Even if the alarm isn't wound up, at the time the alarm is set, movement of your wrist will make the striker hit the gong.
post #578 of 4022
Lack of crown guards was one of the things that drew me to the AT.

post #579 of 4022

A few things to throw out there:

 

1)  Got my Camille Fournet strap finally today and put it on the Geophysic tonight.  As someone mentioned here they make the straps for JLC and you get them at a nice discount.  It definitely took some time to get the strap, but I presume they had to make it.  Also, rather than ship it directly to me they sent it to their New York office and then forwarded it on which thus far has meant no import duties.  The strap is well packaged with a nice suede pouch.  I went with the navy alligator strap (like the one that JLC used on the platinum Geophysic).  With the yellow fauxtina on the hands of the Geophysic I felt that navy worked better and isn't as stark a contrast.  More importantly though, I wear very little black ever and so I wanted something that work better with what I wear.  In fact I love navy blue and wear it more than any other color so the strap really suits what I have.  The navy is quite dark and depending on the lighting somewhat difficult to distinguish from the black.  Still with the right lighting you do see it and I think it works really well with the watch.  So if anyone is considering a strap from Camille Fournet, especially for a JLC, I would recommend them.  One great thing I forgot to mention about the strap is that you actually put it on and take it off without a tool which was a great detail.

 

2)  No ties to Hodinkee other than being a big fan of the site, but I have to throw out the changes to their shop.  It "re-launched" if you will today and I think they did a great job.  In fact I am now a huge fan based on what they've done.  For starters they started selling watches and sold the majority of them already.  What's significant for me though is that not only provide great photos, but they also point out a lot of important details.  First they have a "what we love" photo which points out some of the significant selling points of the watch.  Better than that though they have a "what you should know" photo that discloses things that one might miss if they're not apparent in a photo or if one isn't an expert on that particular watch or reference.  They've even got the "nitty gritty" which covers more condition points.  So for me that alone was great.  However Hodinkee went one further.  I don't own a Hodinkee strap, but do have two pouches.  Their straps have caught my eye though and generally look nice and they come in some lug widths that you can't always find on other sites.  Well they just took it to another level as now you can see what their straps look like on various watches such as a Speedmaster, Daytona, Submariner, etc.  It's called the "Strap Finder" and you can easily scroll between about twenty different watches and see about twelve different straps on each watch.  It gives a great idea of what the strap will look like on that watch.  My two recommendations would be that add more watches to this and continue to add watches over time as well as offer every single strap they sell that works with the watch you're looking at rather than the just their strap recommendations.  Anyway, very likely a result of the Watchville "merger" that really improves their shop.

 

3)  I was approached by someone today who I recommended Aldens to a few months back and he wanted to tell me he bought a pair and that he loved.  So we got to talking and long story short we got on to watches.  I know this watch doesn't necessarily fit as well into this thread as the "Poor Man's Watch Thread" assuming that still exists.  Anyway, he had a Mondaine Stop2Go.  The watch didn't really speak to me in terms of looks.  However after he told me the story of the watch I definitely appreciated it.  So not only does it apparently take an aesthetic nod from Swiss rail station clocks going back decades, but it also takes another nod from said clocks.  So the clocks all stop for to make sure they're all on the same time.  Well the seconds hand this watch, which despite being quartz sweeps, goes to about the :58 second mark and stops for two seconds.  Then the minute hand advances after which the seconds hand goes again.  I just thought it was very cool and I think an Omega Railmaster tribute with that feature would be great.  Just a different feature that I was pretty cool.  

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Renault78law View Post

My favorite thread on this forvm; I'm so happy to see that it's still steaming ahead.

I'm contemplating getting a diver. I have a personal connection with swimming, the ocean, and marine life, and have been SCUBA certified some twenty years ago. I don't dive much anymore, so am drawn to wearing a diver (currently wearing a speedy, casually) primarily for the look. I'd like something iconic and classic. Of course, the Sub comes to mind, but I'm not really a Rolex guy, though that is slowly changing with the amount of love being shown to Rolex in this thread and its predecessor. If a Rolex, either Sub, no-date Sub, or Sea Dweller. The other watch I had in mind was the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. A great watch in its own right, but honestly, I can't decide in my own mind if it is the best looking diver or if it is the best looking non-Rolex diver, if that makes sense.

I find myself trying to convince myself about the Blancpain whereas with the Rolex, it just seems so perfect. And if Rolex, other thoughts creep into my mind, like a BLNR, which looks to me identical to the Sub but with the added draw of the bezel color and GMT functionality. Anyway, thoughts on these watches, alternatives, or "becoming a Rolex guy" welcome.

 

Based on the options in your post I'd definitely go with a no-date Sub, especially if you're going to be a "one watch" guy or if you're only considering one dive watch or similar looking watch for your collection.  I'm not a fan of the dates on Rolexs, though it wouldn't keep me from getting one of the models I like, and that's another reason for me.  I also think it's the most versatile and most classic Rolex of the ones you've listed.  The Fifty Fathoms really doesn't do much for me.  To each their own of course and they have a lot of history there.  

 

I've been considering a dive watch for some time now and I have yet to really nail one down that I love.  I think there have been some good recommendations here though and a few that I like.  The Black Bay looks like a nice watch and I think it's one of the best watches, dive watch or not, that you can get for that kind of money.  I also like it in every colorway, but I think if you want to get the best of both Worlds that Black Bay offers then the Black Bay Blue is the best choice.  You still get the Heritage styling, but it also passes better than the other two as a modern looking watch.  

 

A couple of other watches mentioned were the JLC options.  I only own JLCs, though I'm definitely a fan of other watches and don't buy based on brand name (though some brands speak to me more than others), so keep that in mind.  That said another diver that I've really wanted was the Tribute to Deep Sea Alarm.  In fact I came very close to purchasing one before the seller got lazy.  I think that either the American or the European version is great, though I prefer the latter (I think), and both offer great looking styling if you're into a heritage look.  They're also excellent tributes to a great original watch.  I actually like the alarm function and would definitely use it.  I also think that the dual crowns are unique.  From what I understand though the bezel doesn't rotate, so keep that in mind if that might be an issue.  Also, as mentioned, I like the Tribute Deep Sea Chronograph.  Again, great vintage styling, but if that's not your thing then perhaps the non-Vintage reference.

 

Another watch I'll throw out there is the Seamaster 300m Master Co-axial.  Again, I like the tribute watches and the stainless steel version does a great job of that.  Still it's a modern looking watch as well and more so than say the Tribute JLCs.  While I like the Spectre edition, I actually prefer the standard reference.  And if the polished bits on the bracelet aren't your thing I have heard that Omega can get a polished bracelet.  Also like the lack of crown guards.

 

At the end of the day go with what speaks to you the most.  I would just tell you to really take your time.  None of the watches you're considering or that have been recommended are going anyway and the more you look into them and actually literally look at them the likelier you'll come to the right decision in the end.


Edited by BLAUGRANA - 3/8/16 at 9:12pm
post #580 of 4022
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belligero View Post

^
A few elements are nice, but take "Blancpain" off the dial and there's not much to distinguish the overall look from the made-in-China catalogue-component stuff the off-brands that flog their wares on noob-heavy watch forums put out.

Isn't that true of almost all high-end divers, including Rolex?
post #581 of 4022
Quote:
Originally Posted by zippyh View Post


Now that I find very stylish. The bezel colour and raised markers defy recent conventions. The dial is simple and clean. The overall look is understated and refined, with a suggestion of heavy industry.

What's the model number?
post #582 of 4022
Quote:
Originally Posted by atia2 View Post


Now that I find very stylish. The bezel colour and raised markers defy recent conventions. The dial is simple and clean. The overall look is understated and refined, with a suggestion of heavy industry.
 

 

Looks like the IWC GST Aquatimer 3536. Unfortunately, it's an old model, so I don't think that it is part of IWC's current lineup. From memory, it came in a choice of steel or titanium. 

 

If you like the look of the IWC, you might also like some of Sinn's diving watches: 

 

U1:

 

U200:

post #583 of 4022
Squale also have a long history of diver's watches
post #584 of 4022
Tudor Pelagos Blue.

post #585 of 4022
Quote:
Originally Posted by Renault78law View Post

My favorite thread on this forvm; I'm so happy to see that it's still steaming ahead.
I'm contemplating getting a diver. diver's watch talk (Click to show)
I have a personal connection with swimming, the ocean, and marine life, and have been SCUBA certified some twenty years ago. I don't dive much anymore, so am drawn to wearing a diver (currently wearing a speedy, casually) primarily for the look. I'd like something iconic and classic. Of course, the Sub comes to mind, but I'm not really a Rolex guy, though that is slowly changing with the amount of love being shown to Rolex in this thread and its predecessor. If a Rolex, either Sub, no-date Sub, or Sea Dweller. The other watch I had in mind was the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. A great watch in its own right, but honestly, I can't decide in my own mind if it is the best looking diver or if it is the best looking non-Rolex diver, if that makes sense.

I find myself trying to convince myself about the Blancpain whereas with the Rolex, it just seems so perfect. And if Rolex, other thoughts creep into my mind, like a BLNR, which looks to me identical to the Sub but with the added draw of the bezel color and GMT functionality.
Anyway, thoughts on these watches, alternatives, or "becoming a Rolex guy" welcome.
Get the Rolex.

Years ago, I never thought that I'd say that. Unfortunately, there's a lot of propaganda out there about how they're pretty much the same as generic ETA-movement stuff, and all about the marketing.

My discussions with watchmakers that have legitimate expertise and experience to back up their opinions made me realize how much respect Rolex gets from them, and that certain internet experts were way off. They're a company with impeccable manufacturing integrity; they make nearly everything from scratch at their own facilities — the few bits that they don't, such as the handsets, come from their traditional suppliers in Switzerland — and don't use the surprisingly-weak requirements for "Swiss Made" to cut costs with cheap-labour-sourced components.

Being a fully-independent privately-owned manufacture — one that doesn't have grabastic shareholders pressuring them to squeeze out short-term gains at the expense of long-term reputation — is a very rare thing within any industry, especially for a company of their size. As such, they've definitely earned my trust.

You won't find a Chinese-made bracelet on a Submariner, for example. Likewise, you won't find the same finish quality as a $50 ETA movement once you get under the visible plates:

IMG_3151.jpg
image credit: watchguy.co.uk

Despite the number of people who buy Rolex that don't give a crap about anything but the name, they remain a hardcore watchmaker producing high-quality, no-excuses watches that are built to last. They're pretty good at keeping water out, too. smile.gif

Given what you're looking for, I doubt you'd regret choosing one.


Quote:
Originally Posted by robw View Post

Good under the radar choice. It is a little awkward in terms of its functionality but definitely not a Rolex sub.

That said, I don't think I would get one. Just a matter of personal choice. Cool watch though
Thanks; I find that it's fun to wear and certainly different than the typical Sub-a-like stuff out there. It's a nice option to have, especially if there are a few more-conventional watches in the rotation.

Would I choose it as an only diver's watch (or only watch, period) over my Sea-Dweller? Probably not. On the other hand, I don't find it particularly awkward as far as manual-wind watches go; it has a well-thought-out movement, and these Crickets served many people well as a portable and practical everyday alarm before digital watches and mobile phones made them obsolete.

Also, it can be had on the secondary market for about half the price of a Rolex diver's model, and it's one of the very few out there that's comparable in terms of design integrity. The Vulcain even has a bit of its own story in the early days of diving. Being the essentially the same watch that was available in 1961 (except for the radioactive bits) is unique in the industry, as far as I know. And you can still use it underwater today.

The movement doesn't look too shabby, either:

Vulcain_calibre_V_10.jpg
image credit: Vulcain

I think it not only offers good value for money, but that it's also something of a special watch regardless of price.


Quote:
Originally Posted by firenze_rob View Post

Is it true that you can't turn off the alarm? So it would sound at least once a day?
The alarm can be disabled at any time via the pusher.

I usually leave the alarm spring wound down, which makes it silent except for the period when the alarm would be going off, at which time there can be a bit of rattle from the hammer dealie being free to swing around. A half-press of the pusher silences this, and also stops the alarm from sounding when its spring is wound up. A full press extends the crown into alarm-setting mode, while pulling the crown out normally sets the time. Turn the crown clockwise to wind the alarm spring, and counterclockwise to wind the mainspring.

The only notable quirk is that the time setting is forward-only to prevent mangling things inside, so if you overshoot, you have to go around again. The keyless works are quick and effortless to operate, so this takes about four extra seconds.

All the movement-related functions are controlled by the pusher and the 3-o'clock crown. The second crown is only for rotating the decompression table and internal pip.

All this probably sounds more complicated than it is. In practice, it's intuitive; after doing it once, you don't even have to think about it. (I can't say the same about remembering which way adjusts the date and which way advances the second time zone on my 356 UTC.) One final thing to note: the alarm on this thing is loud. teacha.gif

Quote:
Originally Posted by atia2 View Post

Isn't that true of almost all high-end divers, including Rolex?
Yes, but the difference is that those companies are plagiarizing elements that Rolex originated, whereas the Bathyscaphe appears to be drafted the other way around; it looks like it's taken its design cues from low-end watches. And that bezel is inexcusable at any price. wink.gif
Edited by Belligero - 3/9/16 at 6:03am
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, Baume & Mercier and more)