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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, Baume & Mercier and more)
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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, Baume & Mercier and more) - Page 35

post #511 of 3975
Quote:
Originally Posted by no frills View Post
 

I love these TWAT discussions. Just saying.


I agree.  I usually read SF on a laptop and my earlier post was via tapatalk but I completely missed the interesting Noms discussion.  It seems TWAT part 2 has brought people out of the woodwork to add to the discussion which has been great so far.

 

While I can't add anything to the Nomos discussion.  I understand the brand and why a ton of people love it, it is just not for me.  I mean BH just saw a few pages back that he likes the theoretical "blueberry" GMT more than the BLNR though there are quite a few of us with a BLNR.  

post #512 of 3975
Hey all, coming at you guys from the Streetwear side of the forum. This is and the one before it are great threads.

Does anyone here own a Tag Monaco? Offer up opinions and wrist shots?
post #513 of 3975

Beware the ides of March.

 

It's getting to be an annual occurrence, and I've just caught the pattern. Something about the drudgery of winter and the coming excitement of spring that awakens that itch. Before I know it, I've got the fever. A new self-imposed "need" surfaces that sends me fervently researching movements, comparing dial elements, justifying, waiting, researching prices, scouring Chrono24 and eBay and Watchuseek....

 

On March 10, last year, I acquired my GMTII.

 

On March 12 two years ago, it was the Speedy.

 

And, once again, incoming!

post #514 of 3975
Thoughts on the Vacheron 47101/3? Even better if you've had a chance to own/wear one.
post #515 of 3975
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkI View Post

Does anyone here own a Tag Monaco? Offer up opinions and wrist shots?

Some folks like the Steve McQueen wore an original Heuer Monaco in his film LeMans.  I think prices on new ones are a bit much, for a TAG.  Beyond that, it does wear larger than its 39mm diameter suggests, as square watches tend to wear much larger than round ones with similar dimensions. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyc wid it View Post

Thoughts on the Vacheron 47101/3? Even better if you've had a chance to own/wear one.

If you are speaking of the Historiques Chronograph, its a fantastic watch.  The case and "tear drop" lugs are pure vintage VC.  At only 37 mm it still wears really nicely, and it looks great with a suit.  The movement is the same chronograph base from Lemania used in Patek's discontinued 5070.  Patek made some changes to the base movement, while VC did not, but the VC sold for a fraction of the 5070's MSRP.  Back in the day the last of the 47101s carried MSRPs of around $17,000 and you could get about a 30% - 35% discount all day long.  While the Patek 5070 came in at $28,800 for the original YG version and ADs refused to discount or would give a discount of maybe 5% on that model.  

 

After the VC was discontinued it was replaced by the clumsy looking Malte Chronographs, which was powered by the same movement as the Historque Chrono, but it arrived in a much larger case and with a much larger price tag about $34,000 as they wanted it to compete more directly with Patek's 5070, which had a 42mm case and moved into the mid $30K range.

 

Many collectors regretted not buying a Historique Chrono back when they were new and prices have gone up drastically, as the model has had a resurgence of interest from collectors.  Its still quite a bargain relative to the price of a PP5070.  There are several versions of the Historique Chrono, the most common being YG with silver/white dial, then there is YG with black dial, platinum with a salmon dial, and I believe a limited to the Japanese market platinum with black dial. 

 

Personally, I wish I had picked one up back when they were still available new.  Its simply a beautiful watch.  A good friend of mine had one for a few years before liquidating most of his VC collection to help fund a tourbillon, but he really loved that watch.  Good luck with whatever you decide.  

post #516 of 3975
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

Some folks like the Steve McQueen wore an original Heuer Monaco in his film LeMans.  I think prices on new ones are a bit much, for a TAG.  Beyond that, it does wear larger than its 39mm diameter suggests, as square watches tend to wear much larger than round ones with similar dimensions. 

I have owned the CW2111 and the CS2110. I still own the CS2110. I find it thoroughly enjoyable to wear plus you don't have the worries of owning a vintage Heuer. I agree with Dino about the prices of the new versions. Seems a bit overpriced for what you get. Also, I think the McQueen connection is a little ridiculous.

Not sure if you have considered this, but there was a limited edition monza with an el primero movement issued a number of years ago. I think it has a lot going for it.



Bi-compax, blued cathedral hands, cushion case and an El Primero movement. I know many will say, "but what about the faux-patina?"; or "what about the date window?". Frankly, I think you could do a lot worse.
post #517 of 3975
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkI View Post

Hey all, coming at you guys from the Streetwear side of the forum. This is and the one before it are great threads.

Does anyone here own a Tag Monaco? Offer up opinions and wrist shots?

 

I looked at Monacos a bit recenty, but you'll get better advice from others here.  That said I did notice that there have been a few tributes since the original "McQueen Monaco" came out and they all differ slightly.  If I recall correctly the most recent is the closest to that watch in terms of the aesthetic details.  I think it was the hands and the layout of the sub dials that were the biggest changes.  I personal like the most recent tribute as a result, the sub dials in particular look better than others I've seen.  You may prefer a different reference though in which case you can likely save some money if you're looking to buy right now.  

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post
 

If you are speaking of the Historiques Chronograph, its a fantastic watch.  The case and "tear drop" lugs are pure vintage VC.  At only 37 mm it still wears really nicely, and it looks great with a suit.  The movement is the same chronograph base from Lemania used in Patek's discontinued 5070.  Patek made some changes to the base movement, while VC did not, but the VC sold for a fraction of the 5070's MSRP.  Back in the day the last of the 47101s carried MSRPs of around $17,000 and you could get about a 30% - 35% discount all day long.  While the Patek 5070 came in at $28,800 for the original YG version and ADs refused to discount or would give a discount of maybe 5% on that model.  

 

After the VC was discontinued it was replaced by the clumsy looking Malte Chronographs, which was powered by the same movement as the Historque Chrono, but it arrived in a much larger case and with a much larger price tag about $34,000 as they wanted it to compete more directly with Patek's 5070, which had a 42mm case and moved into the mid $30K range.

 

Many collectors regretted not buying a Historique Chrono back when they were new and prices have gone up drastically, as the model has had a resurgence of interest from collectors.  Its still quite a bargain relative to the price of a PP5070.  There are several versions of the Historique Chrono, the most common being YG with silver/white dial, then there is YG with black dial, platinum with a salmon dial, and I believe a limited to the Japanese market platinum with black dial. 

 

Personally, I wish I had picked one up back when they were still available new.  Its simply a beautiful watch.  A good friend of mine had one for a few years before liquidating most of his VC collection to help fund a tourbillon, but he really loved that watch.  Good luck with whatever you decide.  

 

See, this is why I love this thread (and of course the old thread).  I would have never even known this watch existed much less this much detail about it.  

 

What I find amazing about this story is that they made it bigger and upped the price to match when at 37mm it looks a great size.  While I can't say I love the lugs, it's great they went true to the original form.  I don't remember the watch, but I've seen a vintage VC for sale somewhere with the same lugs.  Anyway, VC seems to fly a bit more under the radar despite making some great looking watches.  I think they've done some very nice Historiques pieces over the years from what I've seen.

 

I found this which I think refers to the same reference and echoes Dino's sentiments:

 

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/something-to-consider

 

Something that also strikes me is that it's yet another 1990s watch that seems to have hit so many if not all the right marks.  So many used watches that I've been liking recently were made in the 90s and this is one I would add to that list.  They're not only great looking watches, but they're sized better than modern watches in my opinion.  On top of that, while I love vintage to an extent, I don't always love all the wear that comes with it and a 90s watch is very near vintage and most of the ones I've seen are in great shape.  Prices also seem to be better, though I suppose that's to be expected.

post #518 of 3975
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveH35 View Post
 

Wore this one out on date night the other night. With my new EFF Epaulet x Southwick jacket

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

@SteveH35 this thing is freaking amazing. Love the black dial against the gold case

 

I've been sweating a two-tone watch for some time, finally decided on the Panda Daytona for that....

 

post #519 of 3975
@Epaulet Thanks! The black dial really changes the whole watch. With the red hands the whole thing just sings.

You can't go wrong with a two-tone Daytona! Looks great. Still think you should consider my AP, but maybe double two-tone is just too much
post #520 of 3975
Quote:
Originally Posted by BLAUGRANA View Post

 

 

What I find amazing about this story is that they made it bigger and upped the price to match when at 37mm it looks a great size.  While I can't say I love the lugs, it's great they went true to the original form. 

 

I found this which I think refers to the same reference and echoes Dino's sentiments:

 

https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/something-to-consider

 

Something that also strikes me is that it's yet another 1990s...  They're not only great looking watches, but they're sized better than modern watches in my opinion.  

The replacement (Malte Chronograph)  just lacked all of the elegance of the Historiques chronograph.  It was larger, while carrying the same movement (a pet peeve of mine), so it looked small in the newer case, but it also appeared that they went into sister company IWC's parts bin and put pilot chronograph pushers on the Malte chrono, and it was IMHO a mess.  The Historiques has stood up well to the test of time and many collectors are rediscovering it.  As for the so called "Tear drop" lugs, its an acquired taste, but I have grown to love them on VCs.  They are not just true to the model the Historiques is based on, but they are a signature detail of many vintage VCs.  

 

 

Yes, the watch in Hodinkee's article is the platinum version.  

 

Watches of the late 90's into the early 2000s, are often beautiful in design and proportions, as the "Giant watches are better" theme that has caught on was in its infancy.  So there were lots of watches to choose from that were very wearable and versatile due to their reasonable size.  Beyond that companies were not quite so bold in terms of increasing prices each year just for the heck of it, and discounts were still easy to get, which made many watches rather reasonably priced relative to what we see today.  There are still some 90's bargains out there if you search for them.  Cheers!

post #521 of 3975
My new watch for the collection
post #522 of 3975
Quote:
Originally Posted by firenze_rob View Post

I have owned the CW2111 and the CS2110. I still own the CS2110. I find it thoroughly enjoyable to wear plus you don't have the worries of owning a vintage Heuer. I agree with Dino about the prices of the new versions. Seems a bit overpriced for what you get. Also, I think the McQueen connection is a little ridiculous.

Not sure if you have considered this, but there was a limited edition monza with an el primero movement issued a number of years ago. I think it has a lot going for it.

What 'worries' would there be with a vintage Heuer? The only reason i ask is its something on my list but I'm keen to learn more about the vintage side of things first.
post #523 of 3975
Thread Starter 

I do lust after the VC Les Historiques chrono.  The Pt one comes in the "salmon dial" too, btw, though not so many.  But I've seen them all around the $20k mark over the last couple of years, which is pretty amazing for a big three platinum complication with a bit of history.  Patek's expensive ad campaigns and knock on price increases (including used), are really making VC look like good value.

 

@JLnoir: congratulations.  A couple of pages back there was a brief discussion of Breitling chronos, and I was actually looking at one of these.  I love the way the blue dial pings against those little gold details.  It's pretty bling and not everyone's taste, but now Breitlings are all made like hub caps these older 40-42mm versions look like bargains.  Is that the 42mm Chronomat? Nice kop; bling with pride!

post #524 of 3975
Quote:
Originally Posted by alford78 View Post

What I really wish one could buy is a nice regulator for under $10,000. There are two or three that have me pondering purchasing that are under $5,000 but just don't know if they will draw to me once on the wrist. May just have to buy a used one for a couple grand just to see. There are 3-4 priced between $10,000 and $40,000 that I love but that's just a lot of dough for a simple complication. It would be hard not to buy a perpetual calendar instead at those prices.

Garrick do a regulator at about your price range. I can't say I like it my self or any regulator design to be honest.
http://www.garrick.co.uk/regulator/
post #525 of 3975
Quote:
Originally Posted by OzWino View Post

What 'worries' would there be with a vintage Heuer? The only reason i ask is its something on my list but I'm keen to learn more about the vintage side of things first.

1) It's a wild world out there. You really need to study the subject material if you want to dip your toe into the vintage, Heuer or otherwise, watch pool. There are lots of unscrupulous sellers that will put together Frankenwatches that look the part but hold little extrinsic value. This is due in part to a) record keeping for much of the swiss watch making in the 60s - 80s was pretty shitty and has been reduced to grainy pictures and folklore (ie Did Genta design the Vacheron 222, Did Steve McQueen really wear a 1655?). And b) an insatiable demand for what's cool (Universal Geneve madness).

2) Parts - movement parts are pretty easy to come by since most of these Heuers use valjoux movements. But things like hands and pushers will be a struggle to find.

3. Value - let's be frank. For the most part watches are terrible investments. But the price inflation on some Heuers is pretty insane. Given the transaction risks detailed above, I just don't see the value.
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