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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, Baume & Mercier and more) - Page 33

post #481 of 4540
Quote:
Originally Posted by BLAUGRANA View Post
 

Re: the Globemaster, while I too find that latest version distasteful, the standard steel version isn't so bad.  It's not a watch I'd consider, but I think it's getting too hard a time here and were it to say "Rolex" on the dial it would be getting a pass like a few of them seem to get because they say exactly that on the dial. 

 

The Globemaster, even the standard steel version is a dog!  The combination of the chunky case, pie pan dial and narrow fluting of the bezel are a hideous combination.   In addition, I can't see the Globemaster getting a pass by the "Regulars" on this thread, if it were sold by Rolex. From what I have seen, even the most ardent Rolex fans here dole out plenty of criticism of various current Rolex watches.  Several of us didn't like the proportions of the 41mm Day-Date or Datejust.  I find the DeepSea ridiculous in terms of size, top heavy, and IMHO its proportions make the bracelet seem too small for it.  Other's here complain about the hand length of the current Explorer.  However, IMHO, the worst looking watch they make is the Yachtmaster II.  Its just goofy looking, and having it say Yachtmaster II on the bezel is just obnoxious.  Now maybe on other forums people give some watches a pass, but most people here are very detail oriented and an ugly watch is an ugly watch regardless of maker.  Cheers! 

post #482 of 4540
^ +1
post #483 of 4540
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post
 

The Globemaster, even the standard steel version is a dog!  The combination of the chunky case, pie pan dial and narrow fluting of the bezel are a hideous combination.   In addition, I can't see the Globemaster getting a pass by the "Regulars" on this thread, if it were sold by Rolex. From what I have seen, even the most ardent Rolex fans here dole out plenty of criticism of various current Rolex watches.  Several of us didn't like the proportions of the 41mm Day-Date or Datejust.  I find the DeepSea ridiculous in terms of size, top heavy, and IMHO its proportions make the bracelet seem too small for it.  Other's here complain about the hand length of the current Explorer.  However, IMHO, the worst looking watch they make is the Yachtmaster II.  Its just goofy looking, and having it say Yachtmaster II on the bezel is just obnoxious.  Now maybe on other forums people give some watches a pass, but most people here are very detail oriented and an ugly watch is an ugly watch regardless of maker.  Cheers! 

 

I respectfully disagree on both counts.  With regards to the Globemaster I think that's an overstatement, but to each their own.  Again, I don't like it, but there are plenty of worse options out there.  As for Rolex, my perception is my reality and while I overstated my point surely, I see models or references get high praise that I personally don't love.  

post #484 of 4540
Thread Starter 

It's healthy that there are a variety of perspectives.  If I might add my own solitary positive on the Globemaster: the platinum version is cool.  It doesn't have the 6 o'clock date that I hate, and that crazy lume and all the things Dino doesn't like make for an absolute spaceship.  I'm not sure I'd buy it even if I had the beans, and understand why they'd be divisive, but I think it holds together pretty well as a modern take when it's stripped down to time only like this.

post #485 of 4540
Quote:
Originally Posted by BLAUGRANA View Post

 

I respectfully disagree on both counts.  With regards to the Globemaster I think that's an overstatement, but to each their own.  Again, I don't like it, but there are plenty of worse options out there.  As for Rolex, my perception is my reality and while I overstated my point surely, I see models or references get high praise that I personally don't love.  

First no one said its the worst option.  Surely there are uglier watches, I can't think of any ;) .  Just kidding ...there are plenty of misteps from other makers even from big fan boy brands like Rolex, PP, AP, VC etc...its just IMHO the Globemaster a a big miss, and for what they cost there are other watches I'd rather own. 

 

Its fine not to see why people like certain things, that you don't like.  We can't all like the same stuff.  They fact that you don't see why other people like or buy something doesn't mean its getting a pass.  It simply means your taste is different.  I love my Royal Oak, and while there are other people here who also like them, there are plenty of people here who don't like like ROs.  I don't think its a matter of people giving it a pass for being from AP.  Sometimes one's taste puts one in line with the majority sometimes not.    

 

I think we will just have to agree to disagree.

post #486 of 4540
I'll chime in here to say that the Globemaster is a real dog, an absolute abomination that combines the best of several (some iconic) Omega watches to come up with the absolute worst. It's like a frankenstein lovechild of a 60s Constellation, a 70s Constellation, and an early Seamaster.

The design person responsible for it should be figuratively be taken out back and shot. If your best "defence" of their looks is that "hey people will give it a pass if it says Rolex"... it's really as good as no defence at all and it's really you projecting your perception of another brand.
post #487 of 4540
Is it worth it for an industry outsider to go to Basel World? Would I be able to see anything up close? I'm debating popping over.
post #488 of 4540
Quote:
Originally Posted by BLAUGRANA View Post

I would say that one reason not to get "excited" about Nomos is that you can find a similar looking watch that is much nicer.  For example I'd much rather have a Saxonia than an Orion.  Of course there's a huge price difference there and everyone has their own budget (sadly I'm on the Nomos end, but I'm eyeing up a nice 1815), but at the end of the day you'll probably feel much better about getting something you feel more passionate about.  


Nomos for me is a "fashion" watch.  Not in the sense of say an actual fashion house watch like... I don't know, Gucci.  It's a fashion watch in that their pieces are fashionable.  Perhaps I'll get some flack for saying this, but they're the Swatch of today from a style perspective with the obvious difference being they're making a much more "serious" watch.  That said and despite what I noted above, I do love Nomos.

The one Nomos though that I think could and perhaps is more considered by most is in some ways a little less "Nomos" than the rest.  That's the Zurich Weltzeit.  Don't get me wrong, it's definitely got a Nomos look to it. It's just that it's more like other watches out there.  In the flesh it was the best Nomos I handled.  I was more interested in other models going in, but this for me looked the best in person.  I think it's a distinctive GMT watch that can really work as less a fashion piece than the majority of the rest of Nomos' collection.

Just wanted to address a few things.

First, I think you're being way too liberal with what constitutes as similar here with a Saconia or 1815. I suppose that if round, time only with sub seconds are your criteria, then sure. But if that is it, I would never look at anything outside VC or Lange. Just silly, even outside of price, to compare those to the Orion.

On the swatch thing, I actually agree to an extent with specific lines, and with the release of the neomatik line and all the random colored limited editions for Wempe, etc. But really, before the Neomatik line came out, the Tetra line was really the only one that could be considered fashion-y or swatch-like. The club, tangomat, ludwig, zurich, etc. line were all very non-fashion IMO. So I think that's a bit of a broad stroke there. Also, the Metro has always struck me as Nomos branching out as opposed to as their most typical example.

Then on the Welzeit, I'm just confused how it can be both more like other watches out there but yet also a distinctive GMT.
post #489 of 4540
Many thanks for all the views on the JLC Dualtime - much appreciated!
Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonHedonist View Post

I
It's purely a matter of taste, but in a dressier model like this I find the placement of the dial elements a bit jarring, particularly the relationship between the day/night indicator and the date window. Maybe it's just me, but the date window seems about a millimeter too close to the indices.

I much prefer the master home time with the centralized subdials.

I am not as much a fan of the centralized subdials version, but you have an interesting point about that millimeter of space...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Winot View Post

I must say I prefer the top version of the Dualtime, and if it had been available when I was buying a dress GMT I would have seriously considered it. Is it a new or old model? The JLC website is dreadful and is telling me they don't sell any dual timezone watches.

Think this is the older model; will be a bit of a search to find one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rnguy001 View Post

I'm with Boston - I prefer the Home Time by a country mile. In fact I got that very watch as a graduation gift for my brother when he finished business school so I'm a little biased.

That's really a great gift - well done!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

I like the JLC Master Home Dualtime.  I think the asymmetry creates a more whimsical and interesting look for the watch.  Some of JLC's offerings in the Master collection, I often find so stoic they border on boring.  I really like this watch, and although the bracelet is nice, I prefer how it looks on a strap.  That being said, if you like the bracelet, buy it on the bracelet.  Its usually cheaper to do it this way and negotiate on the price of the watch with bracelet than it is to buy a bracelet after the fact through after sales service departments.  You can always add a strap and buckle for a lot less than a bracelet.  

The Homtetime with centralized subdials that BH posted a photo of its a nice enough watch, but it sort of "Plays it safe" and it doesn't do anything for me.  Both are high quality watches and its merely a matter of which design you prefer.  As always see them in person, try them on and then decide.  Cheers!

Many thanks Dino!
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLJr View Post

This for me as well. So it's hard for me to comment on much other than I find it bland.

Helpful - many thanks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BLAUGRANA View Post


While not remotely opposed to asymmetry, I'm not a fan of this one.  That said it's distinctive and while they may have made their fair share I've not seen one before.  While I would buy one with a bracelet if you can, I'd immediately ditch the bracelet for a nice strap.  

While the JLC Masters can be a bit plain and not the most distinctive watches out there, I actually find myself drawn to them.  For the price points I've seen I think they're a much nicer watch than some of the preferred "competitors" that might get thrown out as alternatives.  I like the classic looks about them.  Owning a Geophysic though I can't help but think adding a Master would be overkill.  Still an Ultra Thin, particularly an Ultra Thin Moon, would be enough of a variance.  The problem is that when I think moon phase I think Lange.  Then again I think almost entirely Lange every day right now.  

Many thanks - very helpful.
post #490 of 4540
Quote:
Originally Posted by BostonHedonist View Post

Is it worth it for an industry outsider to go to Basel World? Would I be able to see anything up close? I'm debating popping over.

You won't see anything from the big brands except in their windows. If you're a nice guy, you can probably get to see some stuff from the Independents. 

post #491 of 4540
Quote:
Originally Posted by BLAUGRANA View Post

 

I remember seeing this one on Watchrecon.  So was this moved for the GO?  

Nice read.  Thanks for sharing.

Technically this one got moved for the Oyster Perpetual, which then got moved for for the GO.

Can't say I agree with your thoughts on Nomos, but I do mostly understand where you are coming from.
post #492 of 4540
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

 The combination of the chunky case,

IMO, this is the single biggest issue with most modern Omegas. I guess it has to do with their movement choice, which is technically excellent but not the thinnest thing on the block. I really like the aesthetic design of the newer Seamaster 300 master coaxials, but it wears way to big. My 44mm Panerai wears more elegantly. When you compare it to something like newer Rolex Sub, something that it should ultimately directly compete with, the Sub seems practically dainty.
post #493 of 4540

Wore this one out on date night the other night. With my new EFF Epaulet x Southwick jacket

 

 

post #494 of 4540

Somewhat surprisingly the 8500 is actually thinner than the Rolex 3135.  5.5mm vs 6.0mm

 

It's the cases that are way too thick.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by pmeis View Post


IMO, this is the single biggest issue with most modern Omegas. I guess it has to do with their movement choice, which is technically excellent but not the thinnest thing on the block. I really like the aesthetic design of the newer Seamaster 300 master coaxials, but it wears way to big. My 44mm Panerai wears more elegantly. When you compare it to something like newer Rolex Sub, something that it should ultimately directly compete with, the Sub seems practically dainty.
post #495 of 4540
Thread Starter 

Some like thinner, neater cases, and some like chunkier ones.  There is also the matter of shape, lug width and angle etc. that is going to affect how watch lover X and watch lover Y experience the same watch.  Unless you're competing to have the thinnest/lightest/sleekest whatever, it's just a subjective matter of taste.  And as Larry Flynt's lawyer said, you can't legislate taste.

 

To chime in on the Nomos thing, I do get the "fashion" point, though don't agree with it entirely. Yes, it's fair to say that a certain community of watch lovers have accepted Nomos as an admirable independent with a distinctive and credible house style and great quality for a reasonable price.  In doing so, some might have romanticised and idealised the brand at the same time.  I think that was Blaugrana's angle, roughly.  Where I disagree is that I don't think they've pitched themselves to be trendy or youthful quite like a Swatch or other mass market maker, for two reasons: firstly, at their price point, they are still very much an expensive luxury niche product to the public it large.  Only real watch lovers would see their $2-10k range as being modestly priced.  And secondly, they don't market themselves to the broader consumer base with lifestyle or celebrity endorsements: they talk to watch nerds about their new movement and aesthetic identity.

 

The very origin of their Bauhaus design ethic is the most efficient combination of function and beauty.  Although I dislike their more colourful and whimsical designs, none really depart from this ethic.  There is plenty of good feedback from owners and reviewers on quality and value, so I don't think it detratcts from the company or its products that some people have become a little too evangelical about its merits.  Where the basic question comes in of "but would you buy a Nomos?" it's a bit like the Grand Seiko debate.  Few people would argue that they're not good watches, so the "would you?" is really the only important part: most people will choose a Rolex over a GS for the same price, for any reason from brand identity to aesthetic to personal experience or loyalty.  More people continue to spend Nomos money on Tag Heuer or Longines or Baume & Mercier even if Nomos are better, because people know what they know and like what they like - not because Nomos don't make better watches.

 

Where do I stand?  For $4-5k, I would rather have a used Rolex than a new Nomos.  For $2k +, I might yet be tempted by a used Zurich, if I can see how it wears on the wrist first.  And that's perhaps another reason why a Nomos or a Moser or a RGM or any number of interesting independents might just be losing out in the kop stakes, even to those who like the look of them: by definition, smaller makers don't have their products available for as many people to see.  And "see it on the wrist" is a sensible test for most things.  Dropping even $2k, let alone $4-5+, is a big bet for most people to place on an internet picture.

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