The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[bigbadbuff]



My new grail watch:

That's one incredibly good looking watch.

 

[firenze_rob]

Did anyone here pick this up yesterday? 1300 USD for a GP Richeville.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Stunning-Gi...416984?hash=item43ee92f418:g:p2AAAOSwubRXKJS6

 

[TheFoo]



However, I think in terms of peers its tough to compare it to anything.  I don't really think their is a Patek, VC, or AP that has the functions or design of an L1.

It never intends to be an ultra thin watch.  It has a few subdials, and a roughly 3 day power reserve so it wasn't going to be a thin watch.  I don't own one (a relative does), but its a piece that I like and find the case thickness lends itself to being worn more often (as its not dainty or fragile), and it can also look good with some casual wear.  But to each his own.

Well, I think the Lang 1's peers include dressy time-only watches from Patek, Vacheron, Audemars, etc. Even if they lack the big date or power reserve indicator, they still serve the same general purpose: a simple dressy watch in precious metal. It could very well be that the Lange 1's additional features require a thicker movement, but that just means the design trade-off may not have been worth it.

Of course this points to a bigger issue: the proliferation of "dressy" watch designs that sacrifice simplicity and thinness in order to be bigger, flashier and more noticeable. Not saying the Lange 1 is the worst offender, but there are far too many high-end watches that are now neither-here-nor-there. Too bulky and feature-laden to be a proper dress watch, yet too precious and dainty to be a proper sport watch.

But with Montblanc in particular - particular because they are aiming for a high volume market segment - it's so disappointing that they cannot come up with a coherent design language.  Their pens are recognisable from a mile away.  But their watches are a bizarre medley of inflated parts bin jumbles that are often weirdly reminiscent of cheaper brands.  They're just not designing anything with a personality, and it seems like an opportunity lost when they have made such a big move.

100% agreed. They are made to look like highly-fashionable "nice" watches (which is a shame, because often they are actually nice). Lots of newcomers seem drawn to them--and I would guess that is not by accident.

As for Patek and Rolex, I don't quite put them in the same space now.  Rolex's famously glacial pace of design evolution is a real strength.  They are what they have always been, and I hope always will be.  Patek make some extraordinary understated beauties, but I can't help thinking they've drifted a bit in design: that weirdly droopy chronograph, and (let Professor Belligero explain) the generic fonts.  There's plenty of reason to want their older models even at the premium prices, but I wonder if the current models sustain their value, it might be as much to do with the massive recent advertising investment as consistent standards.

If you ask me, in a sense, everything that is wrong with Patek today emanates from being more "designed" than they were before. In a way, just like with old Benzes, the less they try, the better. The oversized case and pointlessly fluted sides of the 5227 come to mind as an example of not leaving well-enough alone.

That said, over the long march of the company's history, evolution has been slow and incremental. Hence, the long-term collectebility and value.

Each to his own, but I think Lange has set the standard for what a re-born brand can be.  Sure, a lot of their watches are thicker than the average dress watch, but it's a clear part of their design philosophy.  They have managed to hit a sweet spot for me, dipping back into their traditions of pocket watches, deck watches and even showpiece clocks, and then bringing out a modern range that is immediately both distinctive and enduring.  If something has an individual style then by definition it won't please everyone, but I have every admiration for Lange because they've managed to create a product that is both consistent in design and of unquestionable quality.

Eh. At first blush, I like the way they look too. But then my mind kicks in and I get negative. Yes, they drew on their pocket watch, deck watch and clock history--but why the hell would you design a wristwatch with reference to any of those things? Only when you don't have a choice because you have no meaningful wristwatch tradition. Breguet has a similar problem. Put harshly, I can't help but feel both companies are faking things and their designs are ultimately romantic pastiches.

Also, I guess I don't see how making something thicker for the sake of being thicker can be called good design. Seems intrinsically bad to me. Now, if you told me the thicker cases and movements allow a sturdier, more durable watch, then maybe there would be something to it--but even so, I don't see why such dressy watches need to be particularly sturdy or durable.

Think the Lange 1 is a hockey puck?

Relatively speaking, not absolutely.

 

[TheFoo]

. . . why is Baume & Mercier in the thread title?

 

[TheFoo]

The 5227 mentioned above. Someone please tell me a good reason for the flutes.

 

[Winot]



. . . why is Baume & Mercier in the thread title?

SEO, apparently.

 

[Winot]



That's one incredibly good looking watch.

It's the only annualerpetual calendar I've seen that ticks my box as far as a clean/balanced dial is concerned.

 

[TheFoo]



SEO, apparently.

Then we should add Frederique Constant, Tissot, and Movado for good measure.

 

[TheFoo]



It's the only annualerpetual calendar I've seen that ticks my box as far as a clean/balanced dial is concerned.

Boom.

 

[bdavro23]

The 5227 mentioned above. Someone please tell me a good reason for the flutes.

Do you mean the scallops on the lugs?

 

[firenze_rob]



Boom.

The date is gigantic.

 

[BLAUGRANA]

The new and old Lange 1s are the same size. I prefer the look of the old Lange 1's movement, but that's just me.

Think the Lange 1 is a hockey puck? There is another German look alike that is more hockey puck than you can shake a stick at!

Erm, I think selling a frankenwatch as an all legit vintage speedmaster is a pretty massive screw up.

The case didn't match the movement - that is second only to a fake/mismatched dial on the vintage watch screw up scale.

Assuming you mean the GO?

As regards that Speedy, I'll move closer to your point as regards how big a screw up it is, though apparently (and to my untrained eye) the difference in lugs is very subtle between the cases in question. The rest of the watch matched both the movement and the caseback while there were posts to the contrary. On top of that the crown was pointed out before it was even listed. There is also the consideration that it could have been a transitional piece, though upon further consideration and re-reading their post I'd say that's not very likely. So where I was going with it was that it wasn't as big a screw up as was initially maintained. On top of that the term "frankenwatch" tends to have more wrong with it in my personal opinion based on what I've seen out there, but I wouldn't say it isn't apt in this case. I guess for me a fake/mismatched dial or fake/mismatched hands/crowns are more noticeable therefore bigger screw ups. At the end of the day I think they handled it more than appropriately whilst even responding to comments that were out of order on their personal social media accounts. For me the commentary about the watch, which proved to be partially inaccurate in the end, along with all the additional commentary on Hodinkee in general seemed to me to go well overboard.

 

[TheFoo]



The date is gigantic.

Extremely clever and elegant perpetual calendar display.

 

[TheFoo]



Do you mean the scallops on the lugs?

Yes. Patek calls it "fluting" in their literature.

 

[MZhammer]

Also, I guess I don't see how making something thicker for the sake of being thicker can be called good design. Seems intrinsically bad to me. Now, if you told me the thicker cases and movements allow a sturdier, more durable watch, then maybe there would be something to it--but even so, I don't see why such dressy watches need to be particularly sturdy or durable.

I think this can be a bit of an misconception with Lange. Their thickest watches are generally the pieces that have multiple complications and are not designed to be "dress" watches in the purest sense whereas many of their contemporary offerings, while not being ultra-slim, are in line with the market. Also, many of their offerings are designed with movement aesthetics in mind, making them perhaps more likely to add a little bulk if there's a visual benefit.

Dress watches
Saxonia Slim - 5.9mm
Saxonia - 7.3mm
Patek Calatrava 5196G - 8mm
1815 - 8.8mm

In-house Chrono
1815 Chrono - 10.8mm
Patek 5170G - 10.9mm

Plus, come on, look at this!