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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, Baume & Mercier and more)
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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, Baume & Mercier and more) - Page 230

post #3436 of 3975
^ Congrats @TheWraith. Classic always kills.
post #3437 of 3975
+1 ...wear it in good health!
post #3438 of 3975
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

Hi Ben, Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Yes, I have the XL Tank Louis Cartier CPCP version from 2008. There were several things that drew me to my watch and I will get to them shortly.  However, the watch you are considering "The current XL Tank" had not been released back when I was purchasing my new XL Tank back in 2008.  So one could not consider both back then.  

There are actually several differences between the discontinued (or in Cartier speak "Retired") CPCP XL Tank Louis Cartier and the current model.  Both are great watches, you just have to decide which one is best for you.  Some of the main differences are the size, dial, movement, and case.  The current model is both slightly longer and wider 40.4 x 34.9  than my Tank XL which is 39.2x 30mm.  Sizing of square and rectangular watches always wears larger than on round watches, so its important to try them to see how they look and feel on your wrist.  The width of the new one also results in the strap starting out significantly wider at the case head/lugs and then tapering almost immediately, rather than it more gradually tapering.  

As you noted the dials are different, with the current one having a silver grained dial, and the old CPCP having a guilloche dial, with rose motif at the center and the word Paris on the dial, which was used on many of their very old pieces.  The guilloche does have at least in most lighting situations give the dial a more silver or truer silver appearance while the current model almost looks cream colored in some lighting situations.  

In addition, the thickness and movements are quite different.  The current model is an ultra-thin watch, and IIRC it uses a Piaget based ultra-thin movement and it has a thinner case to go with the thinner movement.  It also has a solid case back, while the old CPCP had a display back.  My watch while dressy and thin, was not intended to be an "Ultra-thin" model and it does not use an ultra-thin case or movement.  However, its rectangular Piaget based movement in the CPCP version is one of my favorite elements of the watch.  Most square and rectangular cased watches use small round movements as its more cost effective than make something from the ground up or trying to source a less commonly built rectangular or square movement. 

The Tank Louis Cartier XLs are probably a much lower production product and somewhat rarer than many of Cartier's round wrist watches.  Its both a function of its price and that more people choose round watches than rectangular or square watches.  However, the CPCP Tank XL was a limited production watch, with 200 being produced in rose gold and 50 being made in platinum.  Which is nice if you appreciate exclusivity, but can be a pain if you are trying to source one pre-owned.  I actually know 2 other owners of the CPCP Tank XLs, and we have all had unsolicited offers to buy them, but we all like them so much that none of us have plans to sell them.  

While there are several good choices for square/rectangular watches, my favorite is the Tank Louis Cartier.  Its a design that has literally stood the test of time with the original design dating back nearly 100 years to 1917.  It looks wonderful paired with a suit, or with a tuxedo (if one doesn't live by the ancient don't wear a watch with your tux rule), and which in XL sizing looks great with casual wear.  I actually like how the Tank looks with casual clothing far more than some other dress watches I've seen paired with jeans and a golf shirt such as Calatravas or Patrimonys.  I think both Tank XL versions are great watches.  Its definitely a watch that I never get tired of looking at or wearing and its still one of my favorite pieces in my collection.

I hope this helped.  
Best regards,
Dino

Below are a few photos.  Enjoy!
















Thank you for the very insightful response! I need a minute for it all to soak in but you sure make a good argument for the CPCP smile.gif
post #3439 of 3975
Quote:
Originally Posted by BenLeaman View Post


Thank you for the very insightful response! I need a minute for it all to soak in but you sure make a good argument for the CPCP smile.gif

Your very welcome.  Both are great watches, so no matter which you choose you really can't go wrong.  I don't have the largest of wrists, so the slightly smaller size of the Tank XL CPCP is a bit better fit for me.  However, the current model could be a better fit for you depending on wrist size.  Also some folks may prefer the simpler non-guilloched dial.  Anyway, wishing you luck with whatever you decide. :cheers:

post #3440 of 3975
Does anyone in NY have a recommendation for vintage Omega servicing?
post #3441 of 3975

Any suggestions for sub $3000 dress watches? Like the look of the Nomos Zurich, and not too pricey either.

post #3442 of 3975
Quote:
Originally Posted by burgerkong View Post
 

Any suggestions for sub $3000 dress watches? Like the look of the Nomos Zurich, and not too pricey either.

 

If you like the look of the Zurich, I'd take a look at the Orion first.  It's not automatic, but it's slimmer than the Zurich and at 38 or 35 mm, it wears nicer.  The Zurich is actually wears big for a 40mm watch (like most Nomos do).  The Orion can be had new for less than 2k and preowned for quite a deal.

post #3443 of 3975

Ordered a couple of straps from Bulang and Sons for my Metro on Saturday.  They were shipped Monday from The Netherlands and were delivered to me in Chicago at 845am this morning..  I liked the black shell trap quite a bit, but really needed something brown to better match the majority of my clothing preferences.  Only bother was the tang is pretty wide on these straps and the holes aren't, so it took a good deal of work to buckle the strap. Also didn't realize that the OEM strap was such a slim taper from 19mm to 18mm, so I couldn't use the Nomos buckle with the 16mm tapered end on these. 

 

post #3444 of 3975
Thanks again guys smile.gif

Updated watch box pic:

post #3445 of 3975
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dino944 View Post

Hi Ben,

Yes, I have the XL Tank Louis Cartier CPCP version from 2008. There were several things that drew me to my watch and I will get to them shortly.  However, the watch you are considering "The current XL Tank" had not been released back when I was purchasing my new XL Tank back in 2008.  So one could not consider both back then.  

There are actually several differences between the discontinued (or in Cartier speak "Retired") CPCP XL Tank Louis Cartier and the current model.  Both are great watches, you just have to decide which one is best for you.  Some of the main differences are the size, dial, movement, and case.  The current model is both slightly longer and wider 40.4 x 34.9  than my Tank XL which is 39.2x 30mm.  Sizing of square and rectangular watches always wears larger than on round watches, so its important to try them to see how they look and feel on your wrist.  The width of the new one also results in the strap starting out significantly wider at the case head/lugs and then tapering almost immediately, rather than it more gradually tapering.  

As you noted the dials are different, with the current one having a silver grained dial, and the old CPCP having a guilloche dial, with rose motif at the center and the word Paris on the dial, which was used on many of their very old pieces.  The guilloche does have at least in most lighting situations give the dial a more silver or truer silver appearance while the current model almost looks cream colored in some lighting situations.  

In addition, the thickness and movements are quite different.  The current model is an ultra-thin watch, and IIRC it uses a Piaget based ultra-thin movement and it has a thinner case to go with the thinner movement.  It also has a solid case back, while the old CPCP had a display back.  My watch while dressy and thin, was not intended to be an "Ultra-thin" model and it does not use an ultra-thin case or movement.  However, its rectangular Piaget based movement in the CPCP version is one of my favorite elements of the watch.  Most square and rectangular cased watches use small round movements as its more cost effective than make something from the ground up or trying to source a less commonly built rectangular or square movement. 

The Tank Louis Cartier XLs are probably a much lower production product and somewhat rarer than many of Cartier's round wrist watches.  Its both a function of its price and that more people choose round watches than rectangular or square watches.  However, the CPCP Tank XL was a limited production watch, with 200 being produced in rose gold and 50 being made in platinum.  Which is nice if you appreciate exclusivity, but can be a pain if you are trying to source one pre-owned.  I actually know 2 other owners of the CPCP Tank XLs, and we have all had unsolicited offers to buy them, but we all like them so much that none of us have plans to sell them.  

While there are several good choices for square/rectangular watches, my favorite is the Tank Louis Cartier.  Its a design that has literally stood the test of time with the original design dating back nearly 100 years to 1917.  It looks wonderful paired with a suit, or with a tuxedo (if one doesn't live by the ancient don't wear a watch with your tux rule), and which in XL sizing looks great with casual wear.  I actually like how the Tank looks with casual clothing far more than some other dress watches I've seen paired with jeans and a golf shirt such as Calatravas or Patrimonys.  I think both Tank XL versions are great watches.  Its definitely a watch that I never get tired of looking at or wearing and its still one of my favorite pieces in my collection.

I hope this helped.  
Best regards,
Dino

Below are a few photos.  Enjoy!
















Wonderful watch, just out of curiosity why would you pick this over JLC reverse (in the market for JLC MUT moon for now, so more like just curious)
post #3446 of 3975
I love my Nomos Zurich. Sharp looking and great quality with a reasonable price.

post #3447 of 3975
post #3448 of 3975

BB36 is nice.  Love the size and the "oversized" crown/crown tube.  Nice pickup.

 

Tudor just needs to do the Ranger in 36mm (and for the love of God use the rose instead of the shield) and I'm all over it.

post #3449 of 3975
Thanks Blau. It's funny, this 36mm watch wears more like my 38.5mm Aqua Terra. Certainly looks and feels bigger than my old 36mm Aqua Terra from a year or two back. Not really sure why that is.

This BB36 has the shield logo on the dial but the rose on the crown, so you get the best of both worlds there.
post #3450 of 3975
Quote:
Originally Posted by clee1982 View Post

Wonderful watch, just out of curiosity why would you pick this over JLC reverse (in the market for JLC MUT moon for now, so more like just curious)

Obviously not Dino, but even as a Reverso fan I admit they aren't for every wrist, mine included unfortunately. I have found them to be too long lug to lug and flat for my wrist. I am aware they have multiple sizes/styles and there's a few I haven't been able to try on that could work. The 'standard' size Reverso, if you've never seen one in person, is actually pretty big IMO.

This Cartier is IMO much more elegant... and that guilloche dial is absolutely insane. The thin case, simple/classic Cartier face w/roman numerals, and that crown are a home run for me.
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, Baume & Mercier and more)