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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, Baume & Mercier and more)
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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, Baume & Mercier and more) - Page 161

post #2401 of 3937
Thread Starter 

@chanoch

 

Not  a matter of "stepping in it" at all.  Yes, it's a watch that's been discussed many times and the elicits some strong opinions (cf. Dino, above!), but it doesn't mean it shouldn't be talked about.  If watches that a few regular posters don't like were off limits, then this thread would be a boring echo chamber like so many others.

 

One of the reasons I like the Pano Reserve is its odd asymmetry - the Lange 1 is vertically symmetrical giving a much more formal flavour.  They have very different personalities.  The L1 is Mozart, the Pano is Eberhard Weber.  One might well have been inspired by the other, and they have the same geographical origin - after all, twenty five years ago they were the same company.  But even if the Pano was inspired directly by the L1, that's not the same as saying it's a lazy homage.  The L1 didn't debut the off centre dial, and Rolex didn't invent the rotating bezel.  The Pano isn't a L1 and the Seamaster isn't a Submariner which isn't a Fifty Fathoms.  I like all of them.

 

A more difficult question though is whether to buy one.  For a big shot, the Lange 1 is one of their cheaper models and produced for a long time now, so if we were in that league then it would look like a great way to have a real top-tier watch.  But a steel GO has so many rivals.  I think with a big discount or used deal it is a good watch: in house movement with lots of hand work (unique engraved balance cocks), strong style whether you love it or not, and that grey one I like has a sueded croc strap that's one of the loveliest I've ever seen.  But at $7-8k best you have to look at what it's up against.

 

The TWAT orthodoxy would say get the MUT Moon.  Personally I find that one a touch bland and I'd go Reverso 1931 from that maker and price bracket.  And from GO, maybe the Sixties stands out - especially as you liked the white dial which tends to be the most easy to find/cheapest as a used or grey deal.  I don't think Fred C has much to offer - the one you suggested is a pale imitation of the JLC MUT and I find that problem with the maker in general; it doesn't have a house style to speak of.  And finally, the Nomos Zurich is lovely but it's a chunk to wear.  I didn't like it on my 7.25" wrist - a dressy style with big casual feel due to the flat, cylindrical case and the long lugs.  The Weltzeit you show would be the one because it looks more casual anyway.  For a dressy watch, a standard 35mm Orion is lovely: the lugs are long again, making it wear larger, but the beautifully shaped case just sinks softly into your wrist like it was meant to be there.  I surely want one.

 

Anyway, there's no hurry is there?  I would suggest going to a big watch shop with no preconceptions but a budget, and trying a whole pile of stuff on.  There is nothing like seeing a watch on your wrist, and we always like to see the photos. :)

post #2402 of 3937

The JLC version is much better IMO. The FC is like a "poor man's" version, nothing wrong with it, but if you have the means I have a hard time believing it beats out the JLC side by side on the wrist (the FC, at its size can be a bit large). I believe one way FC keeps their prices down is by having modular movements; nothing really wrong with that though but just something to note. I honestly wish more JLC would have solid case backs as I find a lot of what you are seeing a bit boring, but they are very well made. The Welzeit is a fantastic watch (biased), though I prefer (and own) the original version.  Movement is very high quality, especially for the price. I like both GO's as well, and like how things are NOT symmetrically asymmetrical on the dial of the Pano makes it more visually interesting to me (I'm one of the pro Pano guys on here though).

 

You are kind of getting all over the place though. In that last list you have a "world timer", two moon phases, one time and date, one time only, and then threw in an additional power reserve with date. I can't really get a sense at what you are after besides a watch you find aesthetically pleasing of which you can be assured by others that the movement is quality. So far I know power reserve > moon phase.

post #2403 of 3937

@mimo  and  @DLJr 

 

Thanks for these comments on the GO Pano -- much appreciated. I think you are right about trying more things on, as that's the 'acid test' in the end. Part of what's happened in the course of this discussion is that whereas my budget was originally $5K, after some soul-searching and talk with my wife, we increased the budget to $10K -- a bit of the inheritance my father left behind, we decided, should go to finding a watch I would love as much as he loved his old Rolex (even if it wasn't working the last five years of his life ...).

 

Also, when I shopped for the Metro a year and a half ago, the watch I really fell in love with was the Zurich World-timer (especially in blue), but couldn't afford it. So, even though it doesn't fit into the overall scheme of the other watches I've been looking at, it's always been there in the back of my mind. I travel a lot for work, and love it (the travel, that is), and work for an international organization, so the World-timer appeals to me at a personal level, even if it isn't the same kind of style as the GO, JLC, or other watches I've been looking at to replace my father's Rolex.

 

You're right to say, DLJr that my preferences are a bit scattered, though you've picked up on the fact that I would like to make sure that the movement is a high quality one. I was disappointed early on, for example, to learn that the Portofino automatic (the one that lists for $4500) is just an ETA movement, or so the sales rep at Tourneau said when I asked. I also have something of a preference for hand-wound movements, though that's not as fixed -- the GO 60s appeals to me, for example, and it was one of the attractions of that Portofino.

 

I like the suggestion about trying on a bunch of watches in a store, and have been to Tourneau, where I have a gift card for the amount they gave me for the Rolex, to look at the IWC watches. The prices are list there, and I have some misgivings about paying so much (though they have thrown in an additional gift card, too, and it's pretty generous). My experiences with 'grey market' goods has been pretty checkered and I've heard of too many 'bait and switch' rip-offs (was the victim of one myself once, on a computer, and it took months to get my money back), false warranties, etc., though the SF members seem more comfortable shopping grey -- and who doesn't like to save money, right?

 

In any case, it's off to Tourneau again for me and a good round of watch shopping, with the many helpful comments of you and the others here in mind.

 

Had a nice Nomos moment today: riding a very crowded subway to work, I looked up at the hand grasping the pole in front of me and saw the Nomos logo on the buckle of a well-dressed fellow's watch. He had a Tangente and loved it every bit as much as I love my Metro: "Simple design, great movement, I love it," he said. Great way to start the day!

post #2404 of 3937

I really feel like you can't go wrong with Nomos if you are a fan of their aesthetic. I'm still loving the heck out of this one.

post #2405 of 3937
Quote:
Originally Posted by chanoch View Post

[...]I began this search for a new watch to remember my Dad[...]
I really feel like you can't go wrong by replacing a Rolex with another Rolex if that's what your dad wore.

Display backs kinda suck, anyway. :P
post #2406 of 3937
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belligero View Post


I really feel like you can't go wrong by replacing a Rolex with another Rolex if that's what your dad wore.

Display backs kinda suck, anyway. :P


You're probably right about replacing the Rolex with another Rolex, but the only one I've seen that moves me aesthetically is the Cellini, and to the best of my knowledge they are only available in gold, putting them outside my price range. Beautiful watches, though, to be sure.

 

I do like a display back though, as I appreciate the craftsmanship of the movements and feel more connected to the watch as a time-piece of human craft. I also find that having that much metal against my wrist can sometimes be a bother, though I believe that Rolex has set a high standard for hypo-allergenic metals. In any event, all of the watches I've been looking at have display cases (that was the first knock on the Portofino automatic I looked at when I began this search, even before I found out it had a basic ETA movement) ... we all have our preferences. 

 

Your point about getting a Rolex is well-taken and appreciated, and I hope that my Dad would be ok with the fact that my love for that Rolex was because it was his watch, not because it was a Rolex. In my price range, they just don't move me that much.

post #2407 of 3937
Quote:
Originally Posted by DLJr View Post
 

I really feel like you can't go wrong with Nomos if you are a fan of their aesthetic. I'm still loving the heck out of this one.

 

Beautiful! May I ask how you feel about the size, lugs, etc. having worn it for awhile? What size wrist do you have? Mine is 7.25/18mm -- it felt just a bit big the first time I tried it when I bought my Metro 18 months ago, but at that point I was still wearing a 34mm Hamilton Viewmaster from the 90s. A lot of people feel that the Zurich wears too big -- how do you feel about it?

post #2408 of 3937
Quote:
Originally Posted by chanoch View Post
 

 

Beautiful! May I ask how you feel about the size, lugs, etc. having worn it for awhile? What size wrist do you have? Mine is 7.25/18mm -- it felt just a bit big the first time I tried it when I bought my Metro 18 months ago, but at that point I was still wearing a 34mm Hamilton Viewmaster from the 90s. A lot of people feel that the Zurich wears too big -- how do you feel about it?


My wrists are smaller, somewhere between 6.75 and 7. I tried it on about 5 times before purchasing and each time I thought it looked better. First time I thought it was too big with the lug shape. Each time after, I thought it looked more at home. While I agree with Mimo that the size and design can lend it to be more casual, I put it on a navy croc and wear it with suits quite often. Here is an old picture with it on my wrist.

post #2409 of 3937
^
That's a fantastic watch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by chanoch View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
You're probably right about replacing the Rolex with another Rolex, but the only one I've seen that moves me aesthetically is the Cellini, and to the best of my knowledge they are only available in gold, putting them outside my price range. Beautiful watches, though, to be sure.

I do like a display back though, as I appreciate the craftsmanship of the movements and feel more connected to the watch as a time-piece of human craft. I also find that having that much metal against my wrist can sometimes be a bother, though I believe that Rolex has set a high standard for hypo-allergenic metals. In any event, all of the watches I've been looking at have display cases (that was the first knock on the Portofino automatic I looked at when I began this search, even before I found out it had a basic ETA movement) ... we all have our preferences. 
Your point about getting a Rolex is well-taken and appreciated, and I hope that my Dad would be ok with the fact that my love for that Rolex was because it was his watch, not because it was a Rolex. In my price range, they just don't move me that much.
I know — it's just that since your choices have changed so significantly over the weekend, I though it might be worth taking another look. I find that they tend to have a way of growing on you. wink.gif
post #2410 of 3937
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belligero View Post

^
That's a fantastic watch.
I know — it's just that since your choices have changed so significantly over the weekend, I though it might be worth taking another look. I find that they tend to have a way of growing on you. wink.gif


Good advice, Belligero, and well noted. That's why we asks folks who've been there for advice ... Many thanks.

post #2411 of 3937


@DLJr 



Love the Zurich World-time, and with that sweater cuff it really looks at home. The 'heimat' rather than the little house is a nice touch, too, at least to me -- I wish they had kept that detail. The blue croc strap was a brilliant touch, as I also don't think the generic Horween straps do much for the Zurich.

post #2412 of 3937

Regarding GO...

I'm a big fan after having lusted after the 70's for a number of years.  I really enjoy the 60's model and the newer blue Panomaticlunar is still one of the coolest looking watches I've handled in person.  I've been wearing my 70's more than half the time since I bought it February and like it more each day.

 

That being said, I think they're priced out of their league new (though GO is certainly not alone in this regard).  New price on my 70's is 3k-4k more than a Submariner...However, their resale value is depressed and so if you look hard enough on the preowned market there are some fantastic deals possible (at least when compared to the inflated new prices).  I paid approximately 50% of the MSRP for a mint 2 year old watch.

 

I'm not opposed to buying new, both of my other two watches were purchased that way from authorized dealers. My main point being, unless you are absolutely in love with a GO (or similar brand for that matter) be super careful about buying new new. 

post #2413 of 3937
GO Sixties (non-date), slightly used = a real winner, and a value to boot.

It's simple, it's subtle, and unless you need a whole lot of other functions, or have a short attention span then it could be a lifetime piece.

MUT moon would probably be my other choice amongst those recently discussed.

And apparently that makes me orthodox nod[1].gif
post #2414 of 3937
Thread Starter 
@pmeis how does the 70s wear? I love the retro feel but it looks like it wears pretty big. How do you tend to wear it?
post #2415 of 3937
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

@pmeis how does the 70s wear? I love the retro feel but it looks like it wears pretty big. How do you tend to wear it?

It definitely wears bigger than a newer Sub, which are both 40mm. ( I mention this as I was at a gtg last week and was holding a friends BLNR right up to my 70s) Obviously the square shape has a lot to do with it, but the bracelet is probably the biggest reason as its quite beefy, it starts at 25mm and tapers down to 20mm.  My other main watch is a 44mm titanium PAM, so I'm used to some size on the wrist.  The 70's is quite a bit heftier to be sure, but it certainly feels a decent bit smaller on the wrist.  I originally got it to wear it on the rubber strap, but I switched back to the bracelet recently and am really enjoying it.  The micro adjust clasp is key in the summer.


Edited by pmeis - 7/18/16 at 1:56pm
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, Baume & Mercier and more)