Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, Baume & Mercier and more)
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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, Baume & Mercier and more) - Page 121

post #1801 of 5213
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post


Yes. Patek calls it "fluting" in their literature.

 

So you're saying you aren't concerned with the aerodynamics of your watch?

 

 

 

In regards to Montblanc I tend to agree with the consensus here. Their entire line is a bit of mess, but some of the watches stand out to me - the world time watch that Hodinkee did a hands on with a few months back struck me as a fun and interesting watch. Though you have to admire their desire to actually build high quality watches; they have all the brand recognition necessary to simply sell overpriced fashion watches, yet they don't.

 

I guess what I'm getting at is that the average high-end watch purchaser is not at all like the people who frequent this thread. Montblanc could have made boatloads on crap watches without Minerva, yet they chose to go the respectable route. 

 

If we want to focus on the sins of Richemont watchmakers, I think we're focusing on the wrong brands in their umbrella.

post #1802 of 5213
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Boom.

HMoserEndeavourPerpetual-1.jpg

Interesting. I didn't know about this. It's an elegant solution for sure. A perpetual shoehorned into a dress watch aesthetic.
post #1803 of 5213
I wish I could tell you why Lange has never really clicked with me, but I'm not sure how to explain it. My tastes just run more toward other watches, I guess.

The Zeitwerk is pretty cool ... probably my current "favorite" of theirs.

And hey, it's not like I have never changed my mind about a brand. But sitting here in 2016, I don't see myself ever spending a pile of hard-earned $$$ on one.
post #1804 of 5213
@mafoofan, I saw that you are selling your Tank. Any concrete reasons? Or what are you consolidating your collection for (obviously not a L1)?

Just to be clear, I'm not an e-stalker, but you do use the same on-line handle on a well-known watch forum...
post #1805 of 5213

Offtopic: I'm glad to see everyone here is having as busy a Thursday as I am

post #1806 of 5213
Regarding the deutsche hockey puck discussion, I like the wrist presence of a Lange (at least when I tried them on in the shop). Of course a Lange 1 or an 1815 will not look as sleek compared with a Calavatra, but I think they fulfill slightly different functions or needs. Besides, categories such as "sport" or "dress" watch are overly restrictive, in my opinion, and not all watches should be labelled into one or the other.

Personally, I like the 1815 series a lot and have strongly considered one as my next piece.
post #1807 of 5213
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post

Yes. Patek calls it "fluting" in their literature.

Scalloped reminds me of the Fender Stratocaster Yngiew Malmsteen signature model.


post #1808 of 5213
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan'l View Post

@mafoofan, I saw that you are selling your Tank. Any concrete reasons? Or what are you consolidating your collection for (obviously not a L1)?

Just to be clear, I'm not an e-stalker, but you do use the same on-line handle on a well-known watch forum...

Loved that particular Tank. Would recommend it any day. Very under the radar and underappreciated.

Just wanted something else even more, that's all.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan'l View Post

Regarding the deutsche hockey puck discussion, I like the wrist presence of a Lange (at least when I tried them on in the shop). Of course a Lange 1 or an 1815 will not look as sleek compared with a Calavatra, but I think they fulfill slightly different functions or needs. Besides, categories such as "sport" or "dress" watch are overly restrictive, in my opinion, and not all watches should be labelled into one or the other.

Personally, I like the 1815 series a lot and have strongly considered one as my next piece.

Eh. Not sure I can get behind the notion of a business casual or cocktail attire watch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by firenze_rob View Post

Scalloped reminds me of the Fender Stratocaster Yngiew Malmsteen signature model.


Yeah, but those serve a purpose.
post #1809 of 5213
What better way to show that you identify with the horological lifestyle and high fashion than a Hodinkee Genta (licensed?) Drakes hank. Blimey, who buys this stuff?

post #1810 of 5213
Quote:
Originally Posted by firenze_rob View Post

What better way to show that you identify with the horological lifestyle and high fashion than a Hodinkee Genta (licensed?) Drakes hank. Blimey, who buys this stuff?
 

 

At least 150 people as it's now sold out.  :)  If you wear pocket squares and are a "watch guy" I can see an interest.  I guess I'd actually want to own one of the Genta designs on the pocket square though.  

post #1811 of 5213

Grabbed a pre-owned Black Bay Black for an even $2k.  Pics next week.

post #1812 of 5213
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post


Well, I think the Lang 1's peers include dressy time-only watches from Patek, Vacheron, Audemars, etc. Even if they lack the big date or power reserve indicator, they still serve the same general purpose: a simple dressy watch in precious metal. It could very well be that the Lange 1's additional features require a thicker movement, but that just means the design trade-off may not have been worth it.

Of course this points to a bigger issue: the proliferation of "dressy" watch designs that sacrifice simplicity and thinness in order to be bigger, flashier and more noticeable. Not saying the Lange 1 is the worst offender, but there are far too many high-end watches that are now neither-here-nor-there. Too bulky and feature-laden to be a proper dress watch, yet too precious and dainty to be a proper sport watch.

It isn't really fair to compare time only pieces or ultra thin watches to a Lange 1.  If one wants a thin time only watch, or if that is how one in categorizing a true dress watch well then that's fine, but then one should be comparing a time only Lange to time only PPs, APs, and VCs.  Then at least you are comparing apples to apples. 

 

While I agree in general Lange's peers are Patek, VC, AP etc. I still don't think there is a Patek, VC, or AP that has as unique of a the design as an L1, and I don't see it as having peers.  Sure you can find a Patek, VC, or AP with a date, a power reserve, a subdial for seconds...but most are larger or thicker.

 

VC has Traditionelle ref 85290  Day Date 41 mm case and 10.65 mm thick.  Nice but a bit dull. They have been offering this dial layout for years but I've always thought it was forgettable. 

 

AP has its Jules Audemars Dual Time 41 mm and 9.25 mm thick.  Nice but I don't love the use of the RO Dual Time dial layout in this piece.  Its case is thinner, but larger in diameter, and its a situation of a small movement going into a larger case to follow fashion.  It actually fits in a much smaller case (as they were offering it in earlier 36 mm round models in the 1990s). Also some may have issues with it being a JLC derived movement when the other are in house movements. 

 

Patek...well they don't really offer a similar complication unless maybe you go to the old 5054 of the late 1990's.  It's smaller in diameter 35.5...but thicker at 10 mm.  

 

Those are all nice watches, but I can't say any of them are as visually interesting as the L1, nor were any of them ground breaking designs when they were released.  So perhaps any watch listed above would be subject to what you described as a "bigger issue: the proliferation of "dressy" watch designs that sacrifice simplicity and thinness in order to be bigger, flashier and more noticeable." 

 

While the dressiest watches in the purest sense would be very thin, time only pieces... I'm not offended by watches being somewhat larger or a bit thicker and having a few complications.  I think its maybe a bit an inaccurate generalization to throw all watches that have complications and which are thicker than time only pieces or ultra thins into a class of watch designs that sacrifice simplicity and thinness in order to be bigger, flashier and more noticeable.   I find watches that fall under the being bigger, flashier and more noticeable...to be watches like Hublot Big Bang pieces, Offshore ROs, several IWCs, and a host of other gigantic watches that are often not very attractive, and are often about outblinging other people. 

 

Anyway, nothing wrong with an L1 not being the right watch for you.  I just find its really a watch that's in a class by itself in terms of design.  

post #1813 of 5213
Mafoofan, can I make some suggestions?

The Patek is boring. Incredibly boring. It's dial is flat and "dead", and it looks like a watch which is consciously trying to reference the past.

And a water meter.

(all IMO of course)

If a Patek or Lange is in your budget... and you like the Moser - how about these?

(especially if you want to stay within the "dress watch" rubric)

1. Laurent Ferrier Microrotor



2. F.P. Journe Octa Divine/Octa Automatique Lune or Quantieme Perpetual

OD:


OAL:


QP:
post #1814 of 5213
Thread Starter 
I do love that Galet Micro-Rotor with shameful passion.
post #1815 of 5213

Patek Philippe has some nice looking high-end show pieces, that cost like a Bugatti, however their main (simple) watch line is too boring, dusty and with flat dials for me. 

 

I must admit Rolex is lately putting out some interesting watches even if I was never a big fan of this brand. 

 

What I like a lot, if we speak about everyday watches, is Blancpain and the new Omega Planet Ocean! 

The old Omega Planet Ocean had two sizes; the big one was a wrist clock, the smaller too cluttered. The new size is just in between and I think it should be perfect. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95o8QbRqvXM   

 

http://www.blancpain.com/en/watch/5000-1230-b52a

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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, Baume & Mercier and more)