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post #7486 of 17639
A lot of people believe that black looks better at night than other colors do. I agree with you that, if you are going to wear black shoes with something other than a a city suit or black tie, the make-up of the show should be more casual. I think that pebble grain is a good way to wear black at night without looking overdressed. There's an Allen Edmonds-for-Brooks Brothers pebble grain MacNeil that's for sale for $150 in the tent sale that you may consider; some English brands also make more casual black shoes in country grain with a lot of brogueing.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BackInTheJox View Post

Thanks to the fellas who helped out with my inquiry about brown gunboats.  Very helpful starting points - we'll see what I end up doing, will probably hold off on buying anything quite yet.

Another general question to the forum:  what's the consensus on black shortwing/longwing bluchers.  I've been indoctrinated to feel/believe that they are a bit of an oxymoron, as black should be reserved for the most formal of occasions (and thus most formal shoes).  I wear a lot of browns/tans and have two pairs of shoes - black J&M Meltons to wear with a charcoal suit, and a pair of To Boot New York wholecuts to wear with black tie.  I do not wear black tie or a charcoal suit terribly often, so they get little play.

On occasion I've considered black longwing (and/or shortwing) bluchers, but I feel like the "correct" answer is that there really aren't many occasions where they are a great choice.

What say you, gentlemen?
post #7487 of 17639
Quote:
Originally Posted by BespokeBrooklyn View Post

A lot of people believe that black looks better at night than other colors do. I agree with you that, if you are going to wear black shoes with something other than a a city suit or black tie, the make-up of the show should be more casual. I think that pebble grain is a good way to wear black at night without looking overdressed. There's an Allen Edmonds-for-Brooks Brothers pebble grain MacNeil that's for sale for $150 in the tent sale that you may consider; some English brands also make more casual black shoes in country grain with a lot of brogueing.

 

Good points!  

 

In the past I've considered the RL Sanderson in black (since I'm a big fan in tan/walnut and can get a good fit with an E width), but it is a bit more sleek and not quite the same level of "dressdownability" as, say, a black grain longwing like you suggest.  But, I'm always open to considering and trying new things.

post #7488 of 17639
Quote:
Originally Posted by BackInTheJox View Post
 

 

Good points!  

 

In the past I've considered the RL Sanderson in black (since I'm a big fan in tan/walnut and can get a good fit with an E width), but it is a bit more sleek and not quite the same level of "dressdownability" as, say, a black grain longwing like you suggest.  But, I'm always open to considering and trying new things.

 

My advice would be to check eBay for a Florsheim LWB in pebble grain.  There are a ton of them on there for a good price.  I would have trouble paying full or even a sale price for a black shoe as I wear them maybe 1-2 times / yr.  I just picked up a pair of vintage McAllisters (I believe they are 80s) with minimal wear for $35 shipped on the bay.  They arrive today.

post #7489 of 17639
Quote:
Originally Posted by BackInTheJox View Post
 

Thanks to the fellas who helped out with my inquiry about brown gunboats.  Very helpful starting points - we'll see what I end up doing, will probably hold off on buying anything quite yet.

 

Another general question to the forum:  what's the consensus on black shortwing/longwing bluchers.  I've been indoctrinated to feel/believe that they are a bit of an oxymoron, as black should be reserved for the most formal of occasions (and thus most formal shoes).  I wear a lot of browns/tans and have two pairs of shoes - black J&M Meltons to wear with a charcoal suit, and a pair of To Boot New York wholecuts to wear with black tie.  I do not wear black tie or a charcoal suit terribly often, so they get little play.

 

On occasion I've considered black longwing (and/or shortwing) bluchers, but I feel like the "correct" answer is that there really aren't many occasions where they are a great choice.

 

What say you, gentlemen?

You already have two pairs of black shoes.  If you want longwings, get them in burgundy (preferably shell cordovan in color #8) as this is the classic longwing gunboat IMO.  Second choice would be dark brown.  But definitely don't buy another pair of black shoes when you already have 2 and hardly wear them.

post #7490 of 17639
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTD1 View Post
 

You already have two pairs of black shoes.  If you want longwings, get them in burgundy (preferably shell cordovan in color #8) as this is the classic longwing gunboat IMO.  Second choice would be dark brown.  But definitely don't buy another pair of black shoes when you already have 2 and hardly wear them.

 

Appreciate the helpful insight!  I would agree, this is something I probably just needed to be talked down from.

post #7491 of 17639
Sure, but if he thinks he would wear a casual black shoe more often than a dressy black shoe, it may be worth the investment.

Another option is a black tassel loafer. Some well-dressed men adhere to a rule that, if you wear black neckwear, you should wear black shoes. If you wear, say, a black grenadine or knot silk tie with navy suits or a blazer and slacks (to a dressy restaurant, country club; or fancy hotel, perhaps?), a black tassel loafer would go well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RTD1 View Post

You already have two pairs of black shoes.  If you want longwings, get them in burgundy (preferably shell cordovan in color #8) as this is the classic longwing gunboat IMO.  Second choice would be dark brown.  But definitely don't buy another pair of black shoes when you already have 2 and hardly wear them.
post #7492 of 17639
Quote:
Originally Posted by BespokeBrooklyn View Post

Sure, but if he thinks he would wear a casual black shoe more often than a dressy black shoe, it may be worth the investment.

Another option is a black tassel loafer. Some well-dressed men adhere to a rule that, if you wear black neckwear, you should wear black shoes. If you wear, say, a black grenadine or knot silk tie with navy suits or a blazer and slacks (to a dressy restaurant, country club; or fancy hotel, perhaps?), a black tassel loafer would go well.

 

I suspect that yes, I would wear a casual black shoe more often than a dressy black shoe.

 

However, I suppose I probably should hold off on any black wingtip blucher for the moment.  If I get to the point where I think "well, I have all the shoes I need for my collection/uses", then perhaps I will settle on adding a black longwing blucher.

 

Of course, do any of us ever reach that point?

post #7493 of 17639

Chili Bryons for Wednesday. This old balmoral style on the 4 last, works very well with a high instep. One of the few balmorals that do. The Fifth Ave., the replacement for the Byron, was moved to the 5 last which does not work nearly as well.

 

post #7494 of 17639
@BackInTheJox I have a lot of trouble in this area so wanted to weigh in. I believe I own 15 pairs in black, maybe more. Apart from summer, I'm usually dressed pretty formally. I wear a lot of black (neo, duh!), so plain toe black styles get a lot of use - its actually the ornate stuff that don't. I literally went through that same thought process as bespoke suggested when I got the MacNeil in black and I rarely wear them. So id agree it depends on whether they will get used. I passed on the Kenilworth on multiple occasions in black - I probably would have worn it weekly at a minimum. I passed on a black Franciscan too - no regrets.
post #7495 of 17639
I was thinking about that about a month ago. I came up with a list of shoes that could complete my collection, but even that was open-ended. Plain black cap-toes, pebble grain chukkas, a burgundy tassel loafer, a shell longwing blucher, a tan pair to wear to summer weddings and other occasions when I wear light colors . . . the list goes on. I work in a business formal office, so I have more use for black shoes and balmorals than many people do, but how often would I really wear tan dress shoes? Or a tassel loafer? Yet I feel somewhat of a need to have a fully rounded-out collection, just in case.

I just snagged a pair of pebble grain Leeds 2.0s for $60 off of eBay. I just got rid of an old pebble grain cemented/rubber soles pair, so this is an upgrade. You know, for when I travel, or for days when the weather is too lousy for my dressier oxfords but not so bad as to require boots. But those are the same circumstances in which I foresaw wearing my dundees when I ordered them a month or so ago. It continues.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BackInTheJox View Post

I suspect that yes, I would wear a casual black shoe more often than a dressy black shoe.

However, I suppose I probably should hold off on any black wingtip blucher for the moment.  If I get to the point where I think "well, I have all the shoes I need for my collection/uses", then perhaps I will settle on adding a black longwing blucher.

Of course, do any of us ever reach that point?
post #7496 of 17639
Quote:
Originally Posted by mosy View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by smfdoc View Post

What to wear when the forecast is for 110 degrees? Boat shoes? Something sockless? Black shell baby. In your FACE Mother nature!


Those are Aldens, aren't they?

Yes, and I would happily wear only AE if they a) used a last that fit my dinosaur width feet with a balmoral lace and b) offered a wider range of choices in cordovan. But it is what it is.

post #7497 of 17639
Quote:
Originally Posted by BespokeBrooklyn View Post

I was thinking about that about a month ago. I came up with a list of shoes that could complete my collection, but even that was open-ended. Plain black cap-toes, pebble grain chukkas, a burgundy tassel loafer, a shell longwing blucher, a tan pair to wear to summer weddings and other occasions when I wear light colors . . . the list goes on. I work in a business formal office, so I have more use for black shoes and balmorals than many people do, but how often would I really wear tan dress shoes? Or a tassel loafer? Yet I feel somewhat of a need to have a fully rounded-out collection, just in case.

I just snagged a pair of pebble grain Leeds 2.0s for $60 off of eBay. I just got rid of an old pebble grain cemented/rubber soles pair, so this is an upgrade. You know, for when I travel, or for days when the weather is too lousy for my dressier oxfords but not so bad as to require boots. But those are the same circumstances in which I foresaw wearing my dundees when I ordered them a month or so ago. It continues.

It continues indeed.

 

I'm actually considering trying to see if I can fit into a D width Ralph Lauren Shanley (their new made by AE tassel loafer, essentially the Acheson I think) in dark brown, as they're $129 right now.

 

I work as a physician in an outpatient setting where chinos/button down with white coat is de rigueur.  No tie.

post #7498 of 17639
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neo1 View Post

@BackInTheJox I have a lot of trouble in this area so wanted to weigh in. I believe I own 15 pairs in black, maybe more. Apart from summer, I'm usually dressed pretty formally. I wear a lot of black (neo, duh!), so plain toe black styles get a lot of use - its actually the ornate stuff that don't. I literally went through that same thought process as bespoke suggested when I got the MacNeil in black and I rarely wear them. So id agree it depends on whether they will get used. I passed on the Kenilworth on multiple occasions in black - I probably would have worn it weekly at a minimum. I passed on a black Franciscan too - no regrets.

 

All good points.  I think right now I probably don't have a big enough "niche" carved out for black casual shoes.

post #7499 of 17639
Quote:

Originally Posted by BackInTheJox View Post

 

What's the consensus on black shortwing/longwing bluchers.  I've been indoctrinated to feel/believe that they are a bit of an oxymoron, as black should be reserved for the most formal of occasions (and thus most formal shoes)...On occasion I've considered black longwing (and/or shortwing) bluchers, but I feel like the "correct" answer is that there really aren't many occasions where they are a great choice.

 

What say you, gentlemen?

 

I think the black color is an indication of formality, but the design of the shoe outweighs it. (Perhaps this is why my wife objects to black flip flops at a wedding.) I personally wear black longwing bluchers one a week and consider it an office appropriate shoe. The blucher, pebble and brogue moves it away from the use only in the "most formal" of occasions. They certainly work in a clinical setting, as can be seen from the doctor's stool in the background. I would certainly wear them with a suit in the absence of a more appropriate style. Although these are pebbled calf, I am currently looking for the same in cordovan and I look forward to owning both.

 


Edited by smfdoc - 6/22/16 at 3:40pm
post #7500 of 17639

Wearing my Park Aves again today.  :lol:

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