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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread 2016 - News, Pictures, Sizing, Accessories, Clothing, etc - Page 893

post #13381 of 19327
From yesterday, apparently McT's are becoming my Friday shoe:
post #13382 of 19327
Quote:
Originally Posted by orange fury View Post

Third times the charm...

Ordered a second pair of HM's and received them a couple days ago. On both the first pair and the pair I tried on at the store, the left boot was fine, but the right had misaligned eyelets and quarters (and on the first pair, the right boot was actually a bit bigger than the left). On the pair I just received, the right boot was perfect, and the left boot had issues (wavy leather on the throat, and misalligned eyelets). Kept the left boot from the first set and the right boot from the third set:
BE642294-C4C7-469D-8CA2-645ED81FE397_zps6xtt0icw.jpg

I took three tries, but NOW I'm happy with my HM's. I brushed them down this morning, the glow you can get out of CxL is pretty awesome.

I just received the same HM's 9E. They fit and look great. Fortunately I have not experienced the same quality issues. Will post some pics shortly.
post #13383 of 19327

Still mitten with my shell acquisition! They arrived looking almost flawless... but still I couldn't wait to give them a damp wipe down and quick brushing. They are a little more plumb than I expected. At some point I may strip off the AE finishing and start from scratch. Is that the norm for AE shell? Do you guys do this out of the box? After some wear? Year or so down the line? (I'm in the process of reading up on shell care.)

 

Essentially out of the box (I actually wore them for a few hours last night on tile/rug/carpet.)

 

After a wipe down, quick brushing, and @Deusis Guarded Goods flat laces:

 

 

More shell goodness (Click to show)

 

 

Now the next question... Do I hit the edges with chili? Same with welt?

post #13384 of 19327
Quote:
Originally Posted by styleaudit91 View Post



Dreary Saturday at the office called for the first wear of the HMs. Really happy I went with black.

The welt on those provides enough contrast to make them look great.

post #13385 of 19327
Quote:
Originally Posted by middlepP View Post
 

Still mitten with my shell acquisition! They arrived looking almost flawless... but still I couldn't wait to give them a damp wipe down and quick brushing. They are a little more plumb than I expected. At some point I may strip off the AE finishing and start from scratch. Is that the norm for AE shell? Do you guys do this out of the box? After some wear? Year or so down the line? (I'm in the process of reading up on shell care.)

 

Essentially out of the box (I actually wore them for a few hours last night on tile/rug/carpet.)

 

After a wipe down, quick brushing, and @Deusis Guarded Goods flat laces:

 

 

More shell goodness (Click to show)

 

 

Now the next question... Do I hit the edges with chili? Same with welt?

They look very cool and unique as they are, but of course it's all a matter of personal preference. Very nice, though!

post #13386 of 19327
Quote:
Originally Posted by akjc View Post
 

So I tried on a pair of 9.5 and my heel slipped out quite a lot as I was walking. Tried on the 9 and it was a bit better, but still some more slipping than I wanted. The 9D was far too narrow, but the length was a little better, but still some heel slip.

 

Could this last not be right for my foot? Traditionally, I am 10.5 in Nike Flyknit Racer, Flyknit Lunar, Jordan 1s, Dunks, Adidas Stan Smiths in 10, Vans in 10.5, and 9.5 in Wolverine 1000 Miles. I've never worn a 9 in anything and I've definitely never would assume I'd need an 8.5.

 

Any advice here? Try another model or would wearing them more reduce the heel slippage? 

 

I will defer to our resident "fit gurus" but if you're not used to leather soled, Goodyear welted footwear, you might be experiencing normal heel slip from a brand new sole / welt. They are inflexible at first and will require some break-in for them to properly flex along with your foot. Is the slip you experience more "up and down" or is there also "side to side" type of slipping? The former, to a degree, is normal... the latter is not.  I believe the common "rule of thumb" for the 65 last shoes is, if your Brannock size doesn't work, try going down a half size and up a width.

 

But, again, this question might be better fielded by one of our members who has a knack for assessing these kind of fit issues such as @Lobster33 or @ace13x ... sorry if I left anyone out. I will say that including some photos of the shoes on your feet could help with the assessment.

post #13387 of 19327
@middlepP, sweet kop. Those look brilliant. As to the welt/edge, I might see how much it darkens with use, but it can't hurt so long as you watch the split and don't get it on the upper.
post #13388 of 19327

A secondhand shop in my neighborhood is selling black Park Avenues in 9.5D with very little wear for $45.  Let me know if you'd like to proxy!

post #13389 of 19327

 

 

 

 

Hi,

 

I needed some advice. My size on the brannock device is 10.5 B. On AE 65 last, I settled on 10 D after trying 9.5 D (toes cramped), 9.5 E (slightly loose with heel space) and 10 C (toes cramped). I have a Park Avenue and Fifth Avenue in calf. Got my first AE cordovan shoe, Cambridge, in the same size yesterday. It felt fine in the store but after coming home, it feels a little loose compared to my calf shoes. There is also some heel slippage.

 

Please see the attached pictures. There is some heel space at the back but it is similar to my calf leather Park Avenue and Fifth Avenue. I understand that cordovan shoes are lasted a little loose compared to calf shoes. But the difference should be not that large that I should try 10 C or 9.5 D?

 

Thank you and have a great weekend

post #13390 of 19327
That cambridge is beautiful though
post #13391 of 19327
Showing off the sock game for a Saturday night. Oxblood McGregors hopefully bring my gambling picks good luck.
post #13392 of 19327
Quote:
Originally Posted by eagleman View Post


Beautiful patina there. Shell or calf?

 

Ultra-shag suede.

post #13393 of 19327
Quote:
Originally Posted by smfdoc View Post
 

 

Please excuse the re-post from about 4 months back. I also started to wonder where the split toe fell in terms of causal versus dressy. After looking closely at the toes I began to appreciate the subtle variations in assembly, sole, length of split and style of welt that pushes one shoe into the dressier category and another towards the casual. The Stockbridge is a good example of the more casual. It has exposed leather edges on the split and vamp stitching and rubber soles for a far more casual appearance.

 

 

The Ashton is remarkably similar, yet some would argue it is even more causal. While the vamp is stitched down as opposed to exposed, the joint in the split is still exposed. More importantly, the storm last is double stitched for a far more rugged and causal appearance. The sole is still rubber as opposed to leather.

 

The Malone, recently closed out in the shoebank, is still quite causal with a rubber sole, and double stitched welt. The internally joined split toe joint is accompanied by a very delicate vamp seam that is machine closed. This is a faux version of the hand stitch seen later in the Bradley.

 

The Walton starts to move up the casual scale towards dressier. The split toe seam is no longer exposed as it is joined internally. The vamp is sewn down with three rows of stitching as opposed to two. The sole is a single oak leather, but it is still a storm welt without the double stitch into the side of the shoe.

 


 The LeSalle is getting dressier with the single oak sole, standard welt, internally joined split toe and attractive second row of vamp and split toe stitching.

 


The Bradley has a prominent line of stitching in the vamp and split toe. This style is usually referred to as a Norwegian Split Toe or NST for short. This double stitching is actually going through the single layer as opposed to closing a joint. This can be done with a machine, but some companies like Alden, do this by hand at 4.5 stitches per inch. I am not aware which method is used by AE. It is common in some cordovan shoes, but also used in calf. The single oak sole places this in the middle ground of dressy.

 

The length of the split toe stitch and profile of the toe adds to the dressier style of the shoe. It seems longer split toe seams are seen in dressier shoes, like the Delray.

 

The length of the split toe stitch, along with hand stitching, is a hallmark of some of the far more expensive shoes. A good example is the toe of this $1500 Sutor Mantellassi loafer.

 


Unfortunately, the Dickson is an example of AEs failure to self edit in the split toe length department, with fairly horrid results.

 

 

So, those seem to be the variables and now you will have far more to consider when selecting several pairs of split toe shoes for the closet. And you likely never wanted to think this much about the subject.

 

Thanks, I actually found this interesting.  So what are people thinking these days, are people wearing the dressier of these (e.g. Delray) with suits?  

post #13394 of 19327
I like bradley. No, would not wear with a suit.

post #13395 of 19327
Quote:
Originally Posted by AliMurtaza View Post
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi,

 

I needed some advice. My size on the brannock device is 10.5 B. On AE 65 last, I settled on 10 D after trying 9.5 D (toes cramped), 9.5 E (slightly loose with heel space) and 10 C (toes cramped). I have a Park Avenue and Fifth Avenue in calf. Got my first AE cordovan shoe, Cambridge, in the same size yesterday. It felt fine in the store but after coming home, it feels a little loose compared to my calf shoes. There is also some heel slippage.

 

Please see the attached pictures. There is some heel space at the back but it is similar to my calf leather Park Avenue and Fifth Avenue. I understand that cordovan shoes are lasted a little

loose compared to calf shoes. But the difference should be not that large that I should try 10 C or 9.5 D?

 

Thank you and have a great weekend

 

Honestly, I think it looks like a pretty good fit.  You don't have what I think of as a lot of room in the heel.  My Lasalles look similar to that.  If the heel slip is a minor issue, I would probably keep them as is.  I would rather have a small amount of heel slip over toe cramming, but it's up to you.  It's also possible the slip could go away with wear.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by St Hubbins View Post
 

 

I will defer to our resident "fit gurus" but if you're not used to leather soled, Goodyear welted footwear, you might be experiencing normal heel slip from a brand new sole / welt. They are inflexible at first and will require some break-in for them to properly flex along with your foot. Is the slip you experience more "up and down" or is there also "side to side" type of slipping? The former, to a degree, is normal... the latter is not.  I believe the common "rule of thumb" for the 65 last shoes is, if your Brannock size doesn't work, try going down a half size and up a width.

 

But, again, this question might be better fielded by one of our members who has a knack for assessing these kind of fit issues such as @Lobster33 or @ace13x ... sorry if I left anyone out. I will say that including some photos of the shoes on your feet could help with the assessment.

 

Ha,thanks, but I'm not really a master fitter --  I just try to help those with what I've learned the hard way.  

 

@akjc If 9 D was too tight but also heel slipping (yes, I've experienced this bad combo before with the Wilbert), I would suggest 8.5 E.   Like Hubbins said, it's hard to know how bad the heel slip is. In some cases, it is acceptable and will diminish in time.  In other cases,  it will not.  If 8.5 E doesn't work, it might be that the shoe design isn't ideal for your foot, but don't judge a last on one bad fitting shoe though.  

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