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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread 2016 - News, Pictures, Sizing, Accessories, Clothing, etc - Page 889

post #13321 of 17809
Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasTexter View Post
 


I think everyone should get the Midnight Blue, BUT be warned it is almost black in certain light.  Don't be expecting Navy as it's not that.  It's between black and Deep Navy blue.   You can see it best in the contrast in my pic below.  The first one is a Strand Midnight Blue, then in the Middle is the Cornwallis Midnight blue.  They are often mistaken for black so I added blue laces which helps.  The Neumok is more of a Navy IMHO.  The Midnight blue is black with a hint of blue tint.  

 

post #13322 of 17809

SO which Gray do I get.....St. Johns, Exchange Place, Strand or Cornwallis......When I look at my rotation I have two Cornwallis (one is chili from Nordstrom's which I haven't decided on yet, I have two Strands: Merlot and Midnight blue.  So I could go with the St. John's in Gray or the Exchange place in Gray.  Don't own but one PA and it's Merlot.  Decisions, Decisions......I have decided I need to be more selective.  How many of you have the same shoe in different colors?  Is that too obsessive?  UGH.

post #13323 of 17809
Quote:
Originally Posted by mreams99 View Post


How about the Park Ave in gray? I don't see that option. Do you have anything to say about that?


I think the Exchange Place took it's place. (HA HA) They Exchanged places with it! 

post #13324 of 17809
Quote:
Originally Posted by smfdoc View Post
 

 

Please excuse the re-post from about 4 months back. I also started to wonder where the split toe fell in terms of causal versus dressy. After looking closely at the toes I began to appreciate the subtle variations in assembly, sole, length of split and style of welt that pushes one shoe into the dressier category and another towards the casual. The Stockbridge is a good example of the more casual. It has exposed leather edges on the split and vamp stitching and rubber soles for a far more casual appearance.

 

 

The Ashton is remarkably similar, yet some would argue it is even more causal. While the vamp is stitched down as opposed to exposed, the joint in the split is still exposed. More importantly, the storm last is double stitched for a far more rugged and causal appearance. The sole is still rubber as opposed to leather.

 

The Malone, recently closed out in the shoebank, is still quite causal with a rubber sole, and double stitched welt. The internally joined split toe joint is accompanied by a very delicate vamp seam that is machine closed. This is a faux version of the hand stitch seen later in the Bradley.

 

The Walton starts to move up the casual scale towards dressier. The split toe seam is no longer exposed as it is joined internally. The vamp is sewn down with three rows of stitching as opposed to two. The sole is a single oak leather, but it is still a storm welt without the double stitch into the side of the shoe.

 


 The LeSalle is getting dressier with the single oak sole, standard welt, internally joined split toe and attractive second row of vamp and split toe stitching.

 


The Bradley has a prominent line of stitching in the vamp and split toe. This style is usually referred to as a Norwegian Split Toe or NST for short. This double stitching is actually going through the single layer as opposed to closing a joint. This can be done with a machine, but some companies like Alden, do this by hand at 4.5 stitches per inch. I am not aware which method is used by AE. It is common in some cordovan shoes, but also used in calf. The single oak sole places this in the middle ground of dressy.

 

The length of the split toe stitch and profile of the toe adds to the dressier style of the shoe. It seems longer split toe seams are seen in dressier shoes, like the Delray.

 

The length of the split toe stitch, along with hand stitching, is a hallmark of some of the far more expensive shoes. A good example is the toe of this $1500 Sutor Mantellassi loafer.

 


Unfortunately, the Dickson is an example of AEs failure to self edit in the split toe length department, with fairly horrid results.

 

 

So, those seem to be the variables and now you will have far more to consider when selecting several pairs of split toe shoes for the closet. And you likely never wanted to think this much about the subject.


So are you saying you should not wear a Bradley Cordovan shoe with a suit?

post #13325 of 17809
Quote:
Originally Posted by FaRKle View Post
 

 

It's a SMU (special make up) order. The fee is $125 on top of the normal $650 shell shoe cost. Mario at the SF Sutter St. store and Jay at the Walnut Creek store are the guys I use to do my SMU orders. Both are great.


They do run sales where the SMU is waived. 

post #13326 of 17809

Woah, a grey Exchange Place.  Makes me wonder if they will release a special color of the Carlyle. 

post #13327 of 17809
Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasTexter View Post
 


They do run sales where the SMU is waived. 

 

Last time they did that was last November for the trunk show. It's unknown whether they'll do the same this year, and he might not want to wait.

post #13328 of 17809

This week was awful.  Thankfully today is black Friday.

post #13329 of 17809
Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasTexter View Post
 

SO which Gray do I get.....St. Johns, Exchange Place, Strand or Cornwallis......When I look at my rotation I have two Cornwallis (one is chili from Nordstrom's which I haven't decided on yet, I have two Strands: Merlot and Midnight blue.  So I could go with the St. John's in Gray or the Exchange place in Gray.  Don't own but one PA and it's Merlot.  Decisions, Decisions......I have decided I need to be more selective.  How many of you have the same shoe in different colors?  Is that too obsessive?  UGH.

Don't want to burst your bubble, but why do you need any of those in gray?  Too obsessive - I'd say no, not at all.  I typically don't buy many of the same styles in different colors but nothing wrong with that if you have the use.  I'll just add (like a couple others have touched on already) - I think the gray can work - Pep's McTavish, the Aberdeen, something like the original Neumok 1.0, stuff with a lot of detail.  The more uniform and dressy the shoe is, the more I'd immediately refer to the picture you in fact posted yourself.  You have a shoe that would look weird paired with gray and would look weird with black.  I just don't know how you'd pair them well.  If I really had to stretch it I could see (not me personally, but in general) the Neumok 2.0 with denim but even those are too uniform in color.  I wouldn't destroy something like any of the 4 you mentioned by getting them in gray - they would just look weird.  Can never get enough of the merlot / burgundy / oxblood spectrum - looks great and is very versatile.  I'd stick to those or the midnight.

post #13330 of 17809

 

Starting to cool down!  Busting out the boots.  Shell Daltons.

 

Does anyone know whether AE will have a Rediscover America sale this year?


Edited by bkdc - 9/23/16 at 5:08am
post #13331 of 17809
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neo1 View Post
 

Don't want to burst your bubble, but why do you need any of those in gray?  Too obsessive - I'd say no, not at all.  I typically don't buy many of the same styles in different colors but nothing wrong with that if you have the use.  I'll just add (like a couple others have touched on already) - I think the gray can work - Pep's McTavish, the Aberdeen, something like the original Neumok 1.0, stuff with a lot of detail.  The more uniform and dressy the shoe is, the more I'd immediately refer to the picture you in fact posted yourself.  You have a shoe that would look weird paired with gray and would look weird with black.  I just don't know how you'd pair them well.  If I really had to stretch it I could see (not me personally, but in general) the Neumok 2.0 with denim but even those are too uniform in color.  I wouldn't destroy something like any of the 4 you mentioned by getting them in gray - they would just look weird.  Can never get enough of the merlot / burgundy / oxblood spectrum - looks great and is very versatile.  I'd stick to those or the midnight.

 

@TexasTexter I agree here I don't think any of those look good in gray at all. I like the St. Johns in chili though now that the Mora 2.0 has a chili offering I may give that a look. Big fan of the navy though, love my strands, need a cornwallis. Also I have 3 strand colors, 4 if you count suede. Big fan of the strand.

post #13332 of 17809

Is there a "go to shoe" for beginners trying to get more into classic menswear? I'm starting a business casual job and I want to get a nice pair of shoes that aren't over the top dressy. I'm thinking about getting the Neumok shown below. Would these be a good choice for chinos and maybe some jeans on my off days of work? I find the distressing on the shoe rather very cool looking. 

 

I'm open to any suggestions on what to get!

 

post #13333 of 17809
Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasTexter View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by M2511 View Post
 

 

According to a shoebank SA they saw VERY few seconds from the limited offering. If I recall it was its own separate shoe rather than being included in the available colors. I don't think this is intended to be a limited run as it was before. It may not be a long term color depending on how well it does but it does seem like it is intentionally being added to the color lineup to stay at least beyond a limited offering.


I think everyone should get the Midnight Blue, BUT be warned it is almost black in certain light.  Don't be expecting Navy as it's not that.  It's between black and Deep Navy blue.   You can see it best in the contrast in my pic below.  The first one is a Strand Midnight Blue, then in the Middle is the Cornwallis Midnight blue.  They are often mistaken for black so I added blue laces which helps.

 


Are those navy or black laces in the neumok's?
post #13334 of 17809
Quote:
Originally Posted by bkdc View Post




Starting to cool down!  Busting out the boots.  Shell Daltons.

Does anyone know whether AE will have a Rediscover America sale this year?

Love those Daltons. RDA is early October this year (10/7 I believe)
post #13335 of 17809

The Neumok has a lot of fans in this forum, but, if you're only going to own one high-quality shoe, it should probably be a dressier shade of brown.  The distressing on the Neumok makes it very much more casual than a similar wingtip design would be in regular brown leather.  The upside is that the distressing makes them look right at home with jeans and chinos; the downside is that it might be a bit of a stretch to wear them with a suit or with wool pants.  In some offices, "business casual" means polo shirts, in others it basically means suits, without neckties.  If your new job is the former, then the Neumok might work.  It its the latter, it may be a bit overly casual.  This may be a bit of a stretch, but I would compare a Neumok's formality to an oxford cloth button down shirt.  A dressier brown derby or wingtip might be more comparable to a navy blazer, in terms of its formality -- probably too dressy for distressed jeans, but appropriate for all but the most formal of occasions.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by akjc View Post
 

Is there a "go to shoe" for beginners trying to get more into classic menswear? I'm starting a business casual job and I want to get a nice pair of shoes that aren't over the top dressy. I'm thinking about getting the Neumok shown below. Would these be a good choice for chinos and maybe some jeans on my off days of work? I find the distressing on the shoe rather very cool looking. 

 

I'm open to any suggestions on what to get!

 

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