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How do I obtain this fit? - Page 2

post #16 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shirtmaven View Post

I am assuming you had the shirt in the photos made for you.
it has too much taper from Chest to Waist.

RTW shirts of any quality do not have that much taper from chest to waist.

that is why you have "wings"

I want to raise my hand above my head comfortably...not sure how to obtain
post #17 of 21
Thread Starter 
post #18 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by teknique22 View Post


I want to raise my hand above my head comfortably...not sure how to obtain


I think Shirtmaven said it already. Too much taper from chest to waist AND the shirt is a bit too closely fitted. Normally when you raise your arms the whole body of the shirt will want to rise a bit as well. This can be lessened but not eliminated by higher armholes. Enough ease in the body permits enough movement of the body so that there is little tension and your shirt won't pull out of your trousers. On the other hand, if the shirt follows the body too closely and is too tapered, when you raise your arms, there isn't enough ease in the body so you get the "wings" under your arms and the shirt pulls out of your trousers. Look at the pull lines (= tension) radiating from your armpits when you raise your arms. 

post #19 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by breakaway01 View Post
 


I think Shirtmaven said it already. Too much taper from chest to waist AND the shirt is a bit too closely fitted. Normally when you raise your arms the whole body of the shirt will want to rise a bit as well. This can be lessened but not eliminated by higher armholes. Enough ease in the body permits enough movement of the body so that there is little tension and your shirt won't pull out of your trousers. On the other hand, if the shirt follows the body too closely and is too tapered, when you raise your arms, there isn't enough ease in the body so you get the "wings" under your arms and the shirt pulls out of your trousers. Look at the pull lines (= tension) radiating from your armpits when you raise your arms. 

 

So basically the solution will be not to adjust the angle the sleeve is connected at but rather don't make the shirt so slim...perhaps cut it down in the chest by 0.5in and extend the midsection out by 1in or so and this will solve it?  Perhaps a smaller armhole as well and done?

 

I sent photos into Blank Label and they are telling me I need a larger armhole and a smaller yoke lol..please tell me this isn't the case..

post #20 of 21

I really should have provided pictures earlier.  Shirts 1 and 3 are from Luxire, shirt 2 is an OTR shirt.

Basically, make sure the arms are attached so they naturally lay horizontally like this:


And not at an angle like this:


Alternatively, you may opt for a bi-swing back, though it only works on heavier fabrics and narrow cuts:

post #21 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadAngle View Post
 

I really should have provided pictures earlier.  Shirts 1 and 3 are from Luxire, shirt 2 is an OTR shirt.

Basically, make sure the arms are attached so they naturally lay horizontally like this:


And not at an angle like this:


Alternatively, you may opt for a bi-swing back, though it only works on heavier fabrics and narrow cuts:

 

 

Very helpful.  Thank you!

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