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akclothpooper

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Kinda prefer denim with some sort of stretchy fabric (usually elastane) unless they're quite a roomy fit, so I can understand the idea that wearing raw tight-fitting stiff denim might feel like work. But when I'm shopping for denim I go after raw or denim from brands who make raw denim so the fabric is structured or nice enough (pretty subjective); for example I'm not a fan on uniqlo's lighter washes since they feel tissue-papery and unsubstatial.
Edit: Also heard Japan Blue is best bang for buck raw denim, but personally I like the feel of sugar cane's fabric better from what I've seen; I've got some raw 3sixteen's from a few years ago (their old fabric before they changed to the better cotton mill) which I wear infrequently now since I pretty much always opt for black denim.
 
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OzWino

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Thanks @crdb for your input. Interesting comments, and agree that the human component definitely adds something. I initially come across them because of their use of mpod measurement do-dads. So i wonder if this great number of 'data points' would improve the outcomes.
 

Journeyman

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Institchu may have improved - I don't know.

What I do know, though, is that some of my younger colleagues ordered suits from them a couple of years back and they were, without exception, awful.

Poorly fitting - either too large or too small - and the fabric and construction was very ordinary, too.

Of course, any MTO or even bespoke offering contains an element of risk - it can take a couple of commissions to really get the fit right. However, unless you really happen to be stick-thin, I think that it would take quite a lot of adjustment and experimentation to get Institchu or similar, relatively low-cost MTO businesses to fit well. Admittedly, my colleagues ordered their Institchu suits online, after taking their own measurements. If you had someone taking your measurements, it may perhaps work better, but having seen some similarly bad "Tom James" MTO suits recently, I'm not convinced that would help.
 

Coxsackie

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Wow Gerry, that jacket is the schizz.

Who is this Steve Calder of whom we speak? Someone please enlighten me.
 

OzWino

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Thanks @Journeyman just the sort of information i was after.

Lovely jacket @Gerry Nelson, great fit.
 

Journeyman

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Yes, as @Prince of Paisley mentioned, I had a grey herringbone tweed jacket made up. I love it and the fit is great! I wouldn't hesitate to recommend him to others or to get another one made up.


That jacket looks very nice, Gerry. Very nice combination in that outfit, too.
 

melbournites

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That looks great Gerry. I'd even go so far to say that the fit of it is better through the chest/lapels than your PJT stuff. Pretty good for a first go!

Thanks for sharing Gerry. Perfect combo for Melbourne weather. Picked up a cashmere scarf from Aaron Chueng with his recent collaboration but didn't get a chance to catch up with Steve. Melbourne is going through a mini renaissance with menswear startups with Christian Kimber bringing a great range etc. Always good to support local talent.
 

Gerry Nelson

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That looks great Gerry. I'd even go so far to say that the fit of it is better through the chest/lapels than your PJT stuff. Pretty good for a first go!

Thanks, Jas! I'm extremely happy with it. I've also added some muscle mass to my chest since I got the PJT kit so that's made a difference in how they fit now.

Steve got me exactly what I wanted. I couldn't be happier.
 

Coxsackie

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Holy crap. Looks like "Leave" will win the Brexit vote.

Aussie dollar has already dropped about 3 cents. Sterling has crashed. ASX is down.

Armageddon!
 

Petepan

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Holy crap. Looks like "Leave" will win the Brexit vote.

Aussie dollar has already dropped about 3 cents. Sterling has crashed. ASX is down.

Armageddon!

Excellent! Time to go shopping for cheap stuff.
 

Geoffrey Firmin

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Excellent! Time to go shopping for cheap stuff.

Holy mother does this mean my favourite English Gins will be cheaper and what about shoes? Will we see waves of Poms seeking refugee status?
 

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