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Australian Members - Part II - if you read the first post, you'll get what this is all about. - Page 209

post #3121 of 3532
I know it's not good for the blood pressure to read these articles, but anyway.

Quite apart from Brioni's spectacular fail in trying to link their brand and logo to heavy metal, what do people think of this assessment of the decline of the suit?

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2016/oct/08/brioni-justin-o-shea-mens-suits-don-draper-fashion
post #3122 of 3532
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxh View Post

For his succulent ?

laugh.gif

And knobweed.
post #3123 of 3532
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gerry Nelson View Post
 

 

 

I often match my dishrag to my footwear and garden. Doesn't everyone?

 

Hadn't given that question any real consideration, but I do always ensure my ocelot and my synchrotron are at opposite sides of the colour wheel.

post #3124 of 3532
Quote:
Originally Posted by md2010 View Post

Anyone have a Kamakura Tokyo slim fit in size 37". Need measurements of shoulder and shoulder end to end of sleeve. The site suggests I go up to 38-85.

I only own their casual stuff but I've tried on their dress shirts, and yeah, the sleeves are pretty short IIRC.
post #3125 of 3532
I remember a time when Brioni were very exclusive and highly revered. Their mistake was making them appeal to the mass market and being more accessible.
post #3126 of 3532
Quote:
Originally Posted by California Dreamer View Post

Quite apart from Brioni's spectacular fail in trying to link their brand and logo to heavy metal, what do people think of this assessment of the decline of the suit?

https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2016/oct/08/brioni-justin-o-shea-mens-suits-don-draper-fashion

 

 

There's utterly no doubt that fewer men, as an overall percentage of the population, wear a suit and/or tailored clothing when compared to 40-50 years ago. 

 

However, to base the demise of the suit on the decline of one brand is very poor journalism. Brioni was failing before O'Shea, because they were selling a very expensive product but their target market was retiring and they had failed to attract a younger market. I can't be sure, but I very strongly suspect that many people under the age of, say, 50 thought that Brioni was a) too expensive and b) not cool. If you're going to spend thousands on a suit, then why not spend that money on a more fashionable brand, not on a brand that primarily made structured suits with padded shoulders worn by older men?

 

I suspect that Brioni largely realised that a large percentage of the male working population either did not know about it, or thought that it was irrelevant, and so they decided to reinvent themselves. O'Shea probably sounded like a good choice - good social media following, known by younger followers of fashion, and with plenty of "street cred", so that he could develop a profile amongst younger people and remake the brand so that they would buy Brioni products. 

 

It appears that he failed in that, although he certainly didn't get much time to prove himself. I think that he tried to do too much, too quickly. Going by the fashion show photos, he totally abandoned Brioni's former core market and went all pimp-tastic, but people weren't buying it - not because suits are in decline, but because Brioni's new products simply didn't hold much appeal. 

post #3127 of 3532

I know that this is quite ignorant of me, but who is O'Shea - a menswear blogger? - what is his role outside of Brioni?

post #3128 of 3532
Quote:
Originally Posted by LonerMatt View Post
 

I know that this is quite ignorant of me, but who is O'Shea - a menswear blogger? - what is his role outside of Brioni?

 

 

He spent some years as the "buying director" for European luxury clothing retailer/website MyTheresa and, while there, built up a large social media following. He was often seen in the front row at various fashion shows and rubbed shoulders with Anna Wintour (of Vogue), Kanye West and other (for better or worse) figures in the fashion industry. 

post #3129 of 3532
I think O'Shea is Australian and started off here?
post #3130 of 3532
Hi guys I was eyeing off some Loakes on herring before I realised they can't deliver to Australia. The Loakes Australia site is way more expensive (500 vs 300). Is there anywhere else to order them from?
post #3131 of 3532
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fxh View Post

I think O'Shea is Australian and started off here?


This is correct.

 

JM summed him up well.

post #3132 of 3532
Quote:
Originally Posted by The False Prophet View Post

I only own their casual stuff but I've tried on their dress shirts, and yeah, the sleeves are pretty short IIRC.

 

Kamakura (and their parent brand, Maker's Shirt) are like Brooks Brothers in that they sell different configurations of fit, collar size and sleeve length. So for a given fit (e.g. "Tokyo Slim") and collar size, you can select from about three different sleeve lengths.

 

This can make online ordering a little tricky. Various SF forumners have advised against the Tokyo Slim fit, but when I visited Kamakura's NY store (on 5th Ave), I was able to try various shirts on and found that Tokyo Slim worked for me. However, I needed the longest sleeve length, and it turned out that they had precisely one shirt in the entire store in my precise configuration.

 

Same deal when I visited the Maker's Shirt store in Osaka last January. They had one or two shirts in my exact size, which I snapped up. Knowing I would be back in Osaka in six weeks, I asked if they could order three pale blue poplin business shirts for me, which they did - without asking for a deposit. Sure enough, six weeks later, the shirts were there, waiting for me in the back storeroom. Big smiles all 'round, especially at A$67 each.

 

I would advise that you do your research carefully and make a "best guess" as to sizing, then order just the one shirt first-up. I'm not sure about their return policy (if any), but I guess if the shirt arrives and doesn't fit, you could return it at your own shipping expense. Be aware that company policy is now for all online ordering to be made via the NY store; their prices are substantially dearer than what's listed on the Japanese website. However, oddly enough, I believe you can still order through the Japanese site, although it's tricky...

 

One final word of caution: business shirts tend to shrink a little. It's best to err on the side of longer sleeves. In any case, if the sleeves are still a little too long after a couple of washes, you can always have them shortened.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by fxh View Post

I think O'Shea is Australian and started off here?

 

Yes. He grew up in rural Northern Queensland. Somewhere near Mt Isa I believe.

post #3133 of 3532
Quote:
Originally Posted by LonerMatt View Post
 

I know that this is quite ignorant of me, but who is O'Shea - a menswear blogger? - what is his role outside of Brioni?

 

I'd also never heard of him till he was fired.

 

You might enjoy this:

 

post #3134 of 3532
Quote:
Originally Posted by SydBased View Post

Hi guys I was eyeing off some Loakes on herring before I realised they can't deliver to Australia. The Loakes Australia site is way more expensive (500 vs 300). Is there anywhere else to order them from?

 

Some of the Herring branded shoes are made by Loakes. Just check the last specifications. You can also just contact Herring directly to get the full details.

 

If you are dead set on Loakes, then use an overseas shipping proxy. Loakes has prohibited all its overseas distributors from shipping directly to Australia, I presume to protect the local Loake distributors. Enrico Santi on Pitt Street in Sydney sells Loakes, often at reasonable markdowns (but still dearer than importing directly).

post #3135 of 3532
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

However, oddly enough, I believe you can still order through the Japanese site, although it's tricky...

Pray tell?
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