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Australian Members - Part II - if you read the first post, you'll get what this is all about. - Page 127

post #1891 of 3518
Sugar Cane jeans in Melb?
post #1892 of 3518
Quote:
Originally Posted by crappbag View Post


I had one made a few years ago when they were less established. Entered my measurements online. Suit did not come out well - fit was off (that could have been my fault).
 

Putting my data hat on...

 

I've worked with a tailor friend on his IT, specifically a measurements database which was originally based on these online MTM sites', to replace having to carry pieces of paper around. He also takes pictures of clients during fittings. I spent a while thinking about why online MTM usually produces such bad fits (worse, IMO, than OTR at the same price in most cases where I wasted my money on them). 

 

I think tailoring is a very "complex" problem. There's a lot of variables, and figuring out how to play with all of them to find the optimal solution (fit) requires enormous amounts of data, making mistakes and feedback loops. You could, in theory, build an algorithm that would do a bit of machine vision on your photos/videos, understand from hundreds of thousands of customers (and their mistakes) how to modify the written in measurements, and so on. In fact, the tailor had me build some automated modifications based on rules of thumb he had developed over the years (e.g. a larger man would have 1.5" added to a particular measurement, a smaller one only 0.7").

 

In practice nobody will do this - it's hard enough to find even big companies doing anything more complex than cat recognition systems, and most engineers have a lot of trouble with true multivariate models, especially with a high number of dimensions and especially when dealing with categorical variables.

 

But the human brain is incredibly powerful, processing orders of magnitude more data per second than even the most powerful supercomputers and dealing with it much better, and to an extent, being a cutter is about doing all this learning from experience, both being taught and abstracting a system ("feeling", "intuition", call it what you like) from successes and failures. You'd be amazed how old and basic the "system" from which they start is - for example, Richard Anderson talks about, in his book [1], the Huntsman measurement system as dating from the 1800s. But the measurements are just a variable, the model is the tailor and it's infinitely more complex than an equation to apply to the input.

 

So when you pay for a human with experience to fit a suit on you, he'll automatically adjust for what he has (perhaps unconsciously, perhaps deliberately) recorded from meeting you based on his thousands of other works before. And when you lose that aspect and deal with a factory that uses labour that does not have that experience, you lose that and you get a worse fit. 

 

So, not your fault and I think the online MTM business is an intractable problem at least today.

 

[1] https://www.amazon.com/Bespoke-Savile-Row-Ripped-Smoothed/dp/1847394566

post #1893 of 3518
I've not found better OTR shirts than Kamakura for price and quality. They're exceptionally well priced, and wear better than any other OTR shirts I own.
post #1894 of 3518

"Sugar Cane jeans in Melbourne"

 

Right Hand Distribution which is based in Adelaide. They used to have a presence in Melbourne.

post #1895 of 3518

Gentlemen,

 

Just re-listed a couple of three-piece suits on B&S with further price reductions.

 

Selling for the simple reason that I have some lapel bowing issues with both suits due to my odd body shape. Otherwise, they are great.

 

See my sig. for details.

post #1896 of 3518
@fxh I'm positive Pickings and Parry has some but not sure if they're the signature models (Hawaii & Okinawa). Also tried on some aero stuff last night sadly the leather was a but too thick for me being horsehide but definitely worthwhile if you're into flight jackets/workwear type leather.
post #1897 of 3518
Quote:
Originally Posted by melbournites View Post

Also anyone used Steve Calder who just started out in Melbourne.

Gerry had a herringbone tweed jacket made up by him I think - looked really good.
post #1898 of 3518
Quote:
Originally Posted by melbournites View Post

"Sugar Cane jeans in Melbourne"

Right Hand Distribution which is based in Adelaide. They used to have a presence in Melbourne.
Thanks. I know about them. I was looking for something in Melbourne.
post #1899 of 3518
Quote:
Originally Posted by akclothpooper View Post

@fxh I'm positive Pickings and Parry has some but not sure if they're the signature models (Hawaii & Okinawa). Also tried on some aero stuff last night sadly the leather was a but too thick for me being horsehide but definitely worthwhile if you're into flight jackets/workwear type leather.
Thanks. I'll check it out.
Still not sure I can pay those prices for jeans. But they do have have highish rise.
But I can't get my head around a Jean that will stretch 1.5inches in waist after 30 wears.
First off , wtf is 30 wears and secondly how do you wear jeans 1.5 inches too small in waist?
I'm too old for all this.

I might have to get foxxy to mentor me on what the young folks do. oh the shame!
Edited by fxh - 6/22/16 at 10:19pm
post #1900 of 3518
For my money, the best value Japanese denim, by far, is Japan Blue, which is made in the same factory as Momotaro. You can get them at Corlection in Melbourne...
post #1901 of 3518
I don't understand jeans anymore either.

Tried to buy Edwins last year, f#cked if I could get a pair that fit my skinny guinea hips.
post #1902 of 3518





Ok then.
post #1903 of 3518

Raw denim has always been bizarre to me - mainly because I don't see any sense in putting in that much work into a pair of pants.

post #1904 of 3518
Quote:
Originally Posted by LonerMatt View Post

Raw denim has always been bizarre to me - mainly because I don't see any sense in putting in that much work into a pair of pants.
what work? You just wear them
post #1905 of 3518
Quote:
Originally Posted by DartagnanRed View Post

Didn't like your Kazuna ones Oli?

I only own a pair of his shoes. They're nice enough but far too narrow for my feet so I'll be unloading them soon.
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Australian Members - Part II - if you read the first post, you'll get what this is all about.