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Australian Members - Part II - if you read the first post, you'll get what this is all about. - Page 112

post #1666 of 3856
Quote:
Originally Posted by California Dreamer View Post


I've seen those occasionally in the op shops and wondered where they sprang from. I also saw a "Made in Australia" Brioni recently, with what looked like real Brioni lining, which gave me pause.

 

I'd suspect that they were probably made under license. After all, a lot of reasonably upmarket brands went crazy with licensing agreements back in the 1970s and 1980s, following Yves Saint-Laurent's example, and for a while they were all happy as they were wallowing in buckets of cash. Then they suddenly realised that having your logo on cheap socks at the same time as you're trying to flog thousand-dollar suits or dresses might not be the best marketing strategy for "luxury" brands...

 

Anyway, whilst I could be wrong, I'd say that it's much more likely that such suits were made under license - even if a relatively short-lived arrangement - than it is that they are fakes. After all, if you're making a fake Canali or Brioni suit, why would you label it "made in Australia" - why not "made in Italy", as per the usual label? 

post #1667 of 3856
Quote:
Originally Posted by Journeyman View Post

I'd suspect that they were probably made under license. After all, a lot of reasonably upmarket brands went crazy with licensing agreements back in the 1970s and 1980s, following Yves Saint-Laurent's example, and for a while they were all happy as they were wallowing in buckets of cash. Then they suddenly realised that having your logo on cheap socks at the same time as you're trying to flog thousand-dollar suits or dresses might not be the best marketing strategy for "luxury" brands...

Anyway, whilst I could be wrong, I'd say that it's much more likely that such suits were made under license - even if a relatively short-lived arrangement - than it is that they are fakes. After all, if you're making a fake Canali or Brioni suit, why would you label it "made in Australia" - why not "made in Italy", as per the usual label? 

A guy at one of the long standing mens wear shops in Sydney told me Flair in Melbourne used to make the Boss suits in the 80s and that they were top quality manufacture.
post #1668 of 3856
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post


Yes - great shame. I was in the Food Hall just the other day. It's beautiful, and seems to have been quite recently renovated. Seems crazy to me that they would piss all of that history and goodwill, not to mention expensive fit-out, up against a wall.

Doubtless though, some faceless South African CEO is going to make a fortune for himself with stock options and bonuses as a result.

Agreeing with all of that there has been something just not right about DJs for years. The shoe department has been in a gradual decline for years and so much of the sale clothing is recycled ad infinitum the tags even look worn.
post #1669 of 3856

^ ^^ That's exactly what I thought too. However the Canali folks swear black-and-blue that no Canali-labelled garment has ever been manufactured outside Italy, even "under licence".

 

Of course, they could be wrong! And there are certain elements to my tux story which might suggest that they are indeed wrong:

 

- As pointed out by @Journeyman , why print "Made in Australia" anywhere if you're trying to fake an Italian-branded suit?

- Licensing agreements granted by top-tier European brands were not unknown in the past;

- My tux is exceptionally well-made;

- While I can't remember precisely where I bought it, I'm pretty sure it was one of the "big two" department stores, most likely DJs.

 

However, there is one other odd thing about my tux: It states "pure new wool" label on the inside-pocket label, but has a "wool-rich blend" label sewn onto the lining in another place. The material is clearly a blend.

 

And another thing: the pents are constructed with adjustable sides. Not just sliding tabs either; an entire overlapping segment with the leading edge being the outer edge of the side pocket opening. This is very common in garments intended for rental, and I suspect that my tux was probably from a run of suits intended for just that purpose.

 

All in all, it's a mystery, and one which will probably never be solved. In the meantime, I'll just continue to enjoy my tux. As indeed I did last night.

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Edited by Coxsackie - 5/29/16 at 12:56am
post #1670 of 3856
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

 

 

And another thing: the pents are constructed with adjustable sides. Not just sliding tabs either; an entire overlapping segment with the leading edge being the outer edge of the side pocket opening. This is very common in garments intended for rental, and I suspect that my tux was probably from a run of suits intended for just that purpose.

 

 

Your trousers sound as though they have "Daks adjusters" in the waist. No, not a pun on "underdaks" or "trakkie-daks", but an actual clothing company in the UK who were the first make an adjustable waistband in that style, but which was then quite widely copied.

 

I've heard of very reputable Savile Row companies, such as Poole & Co, making bespoke trousers with Daks adjusters at the waist, so it certainly was, at one point, regarded as a perfectly acceptable feature on very expensive, top-of-the-line clothing. 

 

If you do a search for "Daks waist", "Daks adjusters" or something similar it should hopefully come up with pictures and other useful results. 

 

Edited to add: I'm sure that @fxh will probably have something useful to add about making clothes under license in Oz and/or about Daks trousers. 

post #1671 of 3856
Thread Starter 

I have several pairs of trousers with Daks adjusters, and was going to get them on my B&T trousers, but as Joe pointed out, tab adjusters give a much larger adjustable range, and is what he'd recommend.

post #1672 of 3856
Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

Agreeing with all of that there has been something just not right about DJs for years. The shoe department has been in a gradual decline for years and so much of the sale clothing is recycled ad infinitum the tags even look worn.

Once uopon a time in a previous century DJ's used to have two sales a year one at Christmas then one at the EOFY and the stock would be current items on sale sigificantly reduced I bought a lot of PRL, GANT & CR (when it was made in Melbourne sweat shops) at those times. If you needed jocks and singlets you went to Gowings for Bonds seconds.
post #1673 of 3856
I don't really understand why we are complaining DJs have too many sales a year? I actually love the fact that stores have multiple sales, so I don't have to wait to buy summer clothes in winter. There was time 12-15 years ago I couldn't afford anything decent in DJs. Now the pricing is definitely better. Would I like DJs to take more of my money so they could have better profit margins? So they could afford to keep the castlereagh street store? No .
But do I love browsing menswear/ shoes at castlereagh street store ? yes. Talk about double standard.
post #1674 of 3856
Australian retail is in a state of perpetual sales. Mind you the what ever happened to winter sales of the past couple of weeks have saved me money which can now be applied productively elsewhere,
post #1675 of 3856
Quote:
Originally Posted by Geoffrey Firmin View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by meister View Post

Agreeing with all of that there has been something just not right about DJs for years. The shoe department has been in a gradual decline for years and so much of the sale clothing is recycled ad infinitum the tags even look worn.

Once uopon a time in a previous century DJ's used to have two sales a year one at Christmas then one at the EOFY and the stock would be current items on sale sigificantly reduced I bought a lot of PRL, GANT & CR (when it was made in Melbourne sweat shops) at those times. If you needed jocks and singlets you went to Gowings for Bonds seconds.
David Jones never, ever, had a "sale" - that was something common shops did, DJs had a clearance twice a year.
post #1676 of 3856
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prince of Paisley View Post

David Jones never, ever, had a "sale" - that was something common shops did, DJs had a clearance twice a year.

Pedant! However it actually was a "clearance sale"
post #1677 of 3856
What's everyone been buying at all these sales?
post #1678 of 3856
MJ 'Sale' have been in rolling sale mode since November last year...
post #1679 of 3856
Quote:
Originally Posted by Osiris2012 View Post

What's everyone been buying at all these sales?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Liber View Post

MJ 'Sale' have been in rolling sale mode since November last year...
I bought mj bale Barry blue jacket. Really nice winter jacket. My wife bought 3 bags. God women and their handbag obsession. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Edited by md2010 - 5/29/16 at 10:37pm
post #1680 of 3856
Quote:
Originally Posted by Osiris2012 View Post

What's everyone been buying at all these sales?

A printer and a microwave oven.Not very exciting, but necessary.
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Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Australian Members - Part II - if you read the first post, you'll get what this is all about.