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Another MTM suit - looking for some expert judgement

post #1 of 3
Thread Starter 

Hi, I'm hoping someone here can help critique my new MTM suit! :)

 

I've been through this whole thread once already, and after being impressed with the amount of expert knowledge on here I thought I'd look for help with a new suit I've just received.

 

I have had stuff made by the same company in the past, but never a full suit, so this time I made sure to get my measurements as accurate as possible (taken multiple times, etc.). The company told me about a service new to them, where they send out a 'Toile fitting' (which I assumed was kind of like a basting), which I hoped meant the finished suit would require as little alteration as possible. Or was at least within tolerances, and not way out.

 

So at first I thought the suit was great. It felt nice, looked fitted enough (although I only have two RTW suits with no alterations other than trouser hemming, so I don't really know what a suit should 'feel' like), although now I've had a chance to look at it there are some areas I want fixing (the company provides free alterations).

 

 

I've attached the pictures below, so please let me know what you think (they were actually taken on a fairly new DSLR, but I didn't realise until afterwards that the film speed setting must have been trying to compensate for bad lighting or something. I will take new pictures in daylight if required).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

These are the things I've noticed about the suit:

 

Trousers

- The trousers could do with some tidying up around the seat

 

- There's something funny going on above my calves. It looks to me like the rear of the trousers could do with being shortened, to 'pick up' the rear.

 

- Obviously they need hemming slightly

 

- Fronts seem OK?

 

Jacket

- There is something wrong with the shoulders. At first I thought I had wonky shoulder blades (I know most people do, although I'm right handed, so shouldn't my right shoulder be lower?), but looking at the suit makes me think there's something up with the shoulder pad on the right side. There are some strange wrinkles that pull from around my right collar down the front of the chest, which from what I've read on these forums could mean there's something up with the construction of the shoulder/shoulder pad.

 

- Related to the above point - I can feel some slight creases in the right shoulder pad when on the hanger, so maybe there's a small problem with the way it was put together. Also, I can't tell why but it feels more built up than the left pad (I asked for minimal padding). Maybe they've tried to compensate for a lower shoulder?

 

- You can see from the front and back shots that one side of the jacket is higher than the other. Haven't got a clue why, but the side with (what feels like) the thicker shoulder pad is also the side that sits higher...

 

- Also, the vent is open and the back is a bit messy, but I have a feeling that the difference in height of each side is 'twisting' the jacket and causing most of these problems. Although, would you say the waist may be too tight on the right side (causing the material to pull up onto my waist and causing the height differences)?

 

- There seems to be some excess material behind my armpits

 

- Those wrinkles across my shoulder blades. The Toile fitting had the same problem, so I asked them to lower the collar slightly, thinking that this was the problem instead of tightness. I wouldn't say the jacket feels tight across the shoulders, but do you think this could be the cause?

 

- The wrinkles at the top of my arms. I asked them to rotate the sleeves for the finished suit;  do you think this is a different problem, or just needs a bit more rotation?

 

- Sleeves obviously need shortening slightly

 

- Is there a bit of fullness on the right side of my chest? Or could this be caused by the whole 'twisting' issue?

 

- When the jacket is unbuttoned some of the creases disappear, and the height difference doesn't look as bad. Although, you can still see that the right shoulder is higher than the left.

 

- Collar gap. It's hard to see in the pictures but there is a very small collar gap; I asked them to lower the collar due to some wrinkles on the Toile fitting, but maybe they overcompensated?

 

- Also, the right shoulder issue causes the left side of the collar to sit strangely. It's like the left side of the collar sits further away from my neck than the right, and there is more space underneath the jacket above my collar bone on this side.

 

 

These are a couple more pics (again, really sorry about the quality, but they highlight what I'm trying to show). You can see from the front that the suit makes it look like I'm shrugging my right shoulder. Also, you can see in different light the issue with the waist, vent and height difference.

 

 

 

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Hopefully the suit is not too gone to be saved, and I'll be giving the feedback to the company when I send the suit back for alterations.

 

 

I'll be taking some much better pictures in a few days, hopefully. Oh, and please give full feedback. There are certain style choices I purposefully made (jacket length, lapel size, etc.), however I did ask them to lower the button stance. Will have to make do I suppose.

 

Many thanks,

Dan.

post #2 of 3
were you measured for this.. or is this self measured?

pants are passable.

the jacket is a mess.

way too many issues for me to go into detail
other then the jacket is too large
post #3 of 3
Thread Starter 
Oh no.

It was self measured, and because of the problems I've seen other people have I took extra care (I even took measurements several times).

Is it really that bad? In my mind if it's too big it can at least be taken in, rather than having no fabric to let something out. Is that true, or is the jacket a goner?

It's a fabric I sent in myself, and it was kind of expensive (I'm not into prestige - it was a colour combination I really liked), so there's no 'remake' option like with Indochino.

If you have the time would you be able to go into detail? I'm very interested to find out exactly what is wrong with the trousers and jacket.

Many thanks for your help,
Dan.
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