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Bespoke in nyc - Page 2

post #16 of 25
Thread Starter 
thank for the efforts. alas the links for the picture no longer work.
post #17 of 25
there's "seize sur vingt" in the lower east side. i'm having them make a suit for me now, and will post the results. they offer off-the-rack, full custom, and various points in between. they are not particularly expensive: a "standard blue suit" is about $1300 OTR, and $1900 full custom. they seem somewhat fashionable, fyi (just a little). their website: seize sur vingt
post #18 of 25
Quote:
there's "seize sur vingt" in the lower east side. i'm having them make a suit for me now, and will post the results. they offer off-the-rack, full custom, and various points in between.
I'm generally the only Seize Sur Vingt supporter on this board. I was under the impression the "custom" is not particularly custom -- that the guys who work in the store (and let's be honest, they're guys and not trained tailors), take the measurements and those are communicated to Boglioli in Naples who then makes the suit. Is that the case? Can you inform us of the actual process in detail? For example, is there an actual fitting where the pieces of the suit are basted together and then adjusted? Again, I'm a fan of James & Co., but have been leary of their custom work, especially as it's no longer NYC based.
post #19 of 25
Quote:
Is that the case? Can you inform us of the actual process in detail? For example, is there an actual fitting where the pieces of the suit are basted together and then adjusted? Again, I'm a fan of James & Co., but have been leary of their custom work, especially as it's no longer NYC based.
i'm just starting the process now, and will give a full report. but, i'm not doing their full custom. in fact, their OTR fits me quite well (which in itself is very strange). but since they appear to have things made in a sort of one-off fashion, they are letting me choose the fabric/lining/etc and add a bit of length to the body but not sleeves etc, and at the "usual cost" of their OTR suits. since they don't seem to ever have more than 1 of any suit, almost everything that one would buy there is somwhere between OTR and MTM, unless you go the full custom (which i think i heard someone say was a more involved process now than in the past). as i said, full report in the future.
post #20 of 25
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post #21 of 25
Quote:
i'm just starting the process now, and will give a full report. but, i'm not doing their full custom. in fact, their OTR fits me quite well (which in itself is very strange). but since they appear to have things made in a sort of one-off fashion, they are letting me choose the fabric/lining/etc and add a bit of length to the body but not sleeves etc, and at the "usual cost" of their OTR suits. since they don't seem to ever have more than 1 of any suit, almost everything that one would buy there is somwhere between  OTR and MTM, unless you go the full custom (which i think i heard someone say was a more involved process now than in the past). as i said, full report in the future.
Any updates on this?
post #22 of 25
seiz sur voight ( sorry for the spelling ) had there custom done by rocco in LIC. This is a mtm operation at best but apparently they do a decent job. The guy is a good promoter.
post #23 of 25
Quote:
seiz sur voight ( sorry for the spelling ) had there custom done by rocco in LIC. This is a mtm operation at best but apparently they do a decent job. The guy is a good promoter.
I'd heard that as well, though I'm confused about their claim to do a full basted fitting - that would seem out of place if just ordinary M2M.
post #24 of 25
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(offshore observer @ 07 Oct. 2004, 08:23) No idea if it's Corvato's house style or not, or indeed if it's a fetish of Letterman's, but this style of button placement is fairly old.  I've seen it on suits from the '50s and, indeed, I have a bespoke DB from Benson & Clegg (off the Row in nearby Picadilly) where the buttons are placed in this manner.  Personally, I don't really like it.
I spent a fair amount of time talking to Corvato yesterday in his shop.  He confirmed that the button placement is his own style.  He said he thinks it is elongating.  In his opninion, to make the buttons equidistant makes the suit look boxy. As it happens, I had on a MTM DB suit made in Capri, more or less in the Neapolitan style.  Corvato had nice things to say about the suit, which I appreciated.  (I am always suspicious of tailors who insult my clothes, even if what I have on is schlock, but especially if it isn't.)  I remarked that the button placement on my suit was more traditional.  He demurred and measured the distance between the buttons.  Sure enough, the distance between the top and middle buttons was greater than the distance between the middle and bottom buttons, by about 1/4".  He said, "I do it maybe 1/2", not much different."  He also showed me some finished DBs in the shop (not Letterman's), and the measurement did indeed come to 1/2" greater, but to my eye, they did not look out of balance like Letterman's coats.  I don't know what explains the disparity.  Probably, I just don't have a good enough eye to see the difference. As for getting Letterman to button the coats, I mentioned that.  Corvato said it was hopeless.  The man will not budge.
Manton - May I ask who your tailor in NYC is? Panzer
post #25 of 25
Mr. magoo which james & co. are you referring to. Surely it's not tom james??
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