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Engineered Garments SS 16

notdesigned

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I am a huge fan of the Willy Post but you have to be aware of the rather idiosyncratic cut: high rise, double pleads, drop crotch, cinch in back, strong taper with very loose thighs, slightly cropped.

What it can do to some physiques is to cause diaper butt due to the amount of fabric in top block. If you are on the skinny side with notably absent gluteal muscles, this might not be the pant for you. If it fits, it fits beautifully. And it can be easily worn dressed up with a jacket or dressed down, given that drop crotch/ taper combo gives it a very casual look.

Cinch is a more traditional: It is EG's slimmest pant and ~1 - 1.5 inch narrower in thigh. Less aggressive taper, no drop crotch, flat front. To me, it is the most "formal" EG pant and perfect with a jacket.

Pics above really don't do much justice to the difference of the pants ...

The above is undoubtedly true though I really dislike how much EG has shortened and tapered the Cinch Pant over the past few seasons. I was looking at the Bureau's S/S items and I wanted to buy the grey broken chambray Cinch Pant, but the size 34 (my size) has a 29.5" inseam and a 6.75" hem width. As someone who is 6' tall, this is too tapered and short--like, almost Thom Browne style. Even letting the cuff out wouldn't help the width which, in the end, is the deal breaker for me.
 

blue peter

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The above is undoubtedly true though I really dislike how much EG has shortened and tapered the Cinch Pant over the past few seasons. I was looking at the Bureau's S/S items and I wanted to buy the grey broken chambray Cinch Pant, but the size 34 (my size) has a 29.5" inseam and a 6.75" hem width. As someone who is 6' tall, this is too tapered and short--like, almost Thom Browne style. Even letting the cuff out wouldn't help the width which, in the end, is the deal breaker for me.

I'm 6'3 and I feel your pain! the cinch pants have gotten waaaay short. I love the cuffed hem and won't let it out so I'm rockin' the thom browne vibe...would love an extra inch or two! also, the wool b1ps are QUITE tapered and tend to hug my lower leg if I have over the calf socks on...
 
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ManofKent

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I'm 6'3 and I feel your pain! the cinch pants have gotten waaaay short. I love the cuffed hem and won't let it out so I'm rockin' the thom browne vibe...would love an extra inch or two! also, the wool b1ps are QUITE tapered and tend to hug my lower leg if I have over the calf socks on...


I really liked the cinch when it was fairly loosely cut in the leg - I hardly wear my newer slimmer ones
 

pe3brain

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Overall I'm lukewarm on this season. I don't like the prints other than that gold Daisy on navy background but I wish they put that on a jacket.

The items themselves are cool (I love the shop coat, loiter jacket, and the m41) but I have enough solid clothing and was really hoping to grab a wow/loud printed piece.
 

thekunk07

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agreed i bought a few pieces at fred segal this week because they accidentally marked all EG at 50% off but not super impressed
 

nickp

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Yeah, this season definitely does not compare to SS14 or SS15 but the stuff definitely is better in real life than in the product shots. I do think the choices in fabrics this season look really great washed + wrinkled. Still, nothing awe inducing. Even something like the Geo Wave Jacquard falls short compared to the floral, tiki, or wave jacquards offered in SS14, and while the dolphin print is definitely nice it still has nothing on that pink bird print of SS14!

That being said, the Chester Coat is really quite nice. Great fit on it. I think some shots made it look a little similar to the Shop Coat, but it's certainly way more structured / slim than it.
 

blue peter

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agreed i bought a few pieces at fred segal this week because they accidentally marked all EG at 50% off but not super impressed

what?! how...fred segal in nyc? or were/are you in LA?
 

thekunk07

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yeah i was in la
 

blue peter

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yeah i was in la

i'll be out there next month - how's the EG selection at FS? Did you visit Mohawk, Steven Alan VB or Canvas Malibu? what's the deal with Canvas, anyway...what a weird online shop...
 

thekunk07

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selection at FS was awful i got the new BDU shirt and pants and a tee. they had a ton of great beams and needles dirt cheap
 
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thekunk07

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also hit me up when you're there i'm there 3 days every 2 weeks
 

tobiasfunke

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Guys, don't sleep on the Navy Geo Jacquard Loiter Jacket.

I just got mine from Drinkerwater's and this is probably my favorite EG piece to date. My small measures 21" P2P—it fits casual and slouchy, since it's essentially a light knit blazer, but is by no means oversized. Go with your normal size, don't size down like Context. This also confirms my suspicion that the TBB only measured one of their fabrics and listed that for all of them, so definitely confirm the measurements for whichever fabric you choose.

For reference, I'm a small in all EG shirting and a medium in this season's Navy Twill Baker.
I don't like the prints other than that gold Daisy on navy background but I wish they put that on a jacket.
http://www.permanent1994.com/newarrival/2016/02/egbedford-jk.html

 
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pe3brain

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Holy **** time to start saving up! Hopefully some western stores get it and sell it around 300!
 

mbaum

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yeah i was in la
**** - You should have called ... immediately :)


FS in Santa Monica is a complete nightmare. Store and selection. Mohawk is the place that usually has an awesome selection. Then again: In my opinion, it are the best store in LA and one of the best in the country.Canvas is a great little store in Malibu. Also good selection (Often the crazier pieces). American Rag has a wide selection, though often not the outstanding pieces. And last year, they skiped the summer season which is a weird move for LA. Steve Allen only carries plane Jane stuff, not different from online. No need to go all the way to Venice (La Brea store does usually not cary EG). A cool newcomer to EG is Threats and Needles in Torrance. Very cool guys that always carry a small, but always superbly edited selection. We have it good in LA when it comes to EG ...
 
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