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THE EUROPEAN THRIFT BUY /SELL / TRADE / WANT THREAD - Page 13

post #181 of 324

This is all interesting. @Nickd would you say that the new mainline Chester Barrie is as good as the older stuff?

 

And in particular, do you know if this one:

 

 

Is a lower tier to this one:

 

 

I've handled 'chester by' and was utterly disappointed, measurably worse than newer M&S to my mind, and closer to the third-tier fashion brands. I also own a jacket and a suit on the older mainline label and they are easily the best constructed items I have worn.

 

 

I have a much harder time with all the mid-level brands in the UK, eg current Acquascutum, Savoy Tailors, DAKS, and the decision of the new owners of Row tailors to pull a Ralph Lauren and pump out diffusion lines has only complicated things.

post #182 of 324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quesjac View Post

This is all interesting. @Nickd
 would you say that the new mainline Chester Barrie is as good as the older stuff?

Not all of it.

From what I've seen they are getting it made in a variety of different places, and are selling at different price points, even on the mainline label. I have two jackets, both with the second label you posted, both fully canvassed, one Italian, one English, the English one has some hand work and the RRP reflected it. There were cheaper mainline jackets, but you could tell.

The English made jacket is similar quality to an older CB suit I have, so they are still a brand worth exploring IMO, just with care.

I've had the Chester by stuff pass through and my experience accords with yours, no real quality there.

Regarding the other brands, it's not a problem if you are buying in person, as you can assess the quality level, but online it is a minefield. Aquescutum and Daks especially used to be quite nice so it's sad if they are on the decline. I had a velvet collared Aquascutum coat that I used to love.
post #183 of 324
Don't forget CB used to make RLPL suits. So the older CB should be top notch.

I found an old as shit CB suit in a local charity shop a while back, and it had handwork pouring out of it.
post #184 of 324
Aye, that's true. They used to be considered a step above Brioni many years ago.

A bit more info on their ranges - they also split it into Gold and Black label - I suspect that explains the difference between my two jackets - they have the same label as the (second) pic above but in different colours.
post #185 of 324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purplelabel View Post

Don't forget CB used to make RLPL suits. So the older CB should be top notch.

I found an old as shit CB suit in a local charity shop a while back, and it had handwork pouring out of it.

Absolutely. But as ever with these things, it's a question of the factory and the people, and figuring out which branding matches which origin. I remember reading a decent article about the old factory in Crewe which I can't find now, though I did find this.

 

Edit: ah, so that black label is now literally gold in some jackets?

post #186 of 324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quesjac View Post

Absolutely. But as ever with these things, it's a question of the factory and the people, and figuring out which branding matches which origin. I remember reading a decent article about the old factory in Crewe which I can't find now, though I did find this.

Edit: ah, so that black label is now literally gold in some jackets?

That bus is so awesome, nice find.

I heard the RLPL stuff were maid in Crewe, so that would make a lot of sense. From my findings, recent CB does not sell well, but vintage does...

I just leave Chester by CB whenever I find it. I guarantee it's made in the same massive suit factory that makes Ted Baker and M&S suits in Turkey.
post #187 of 324
Re. Label colour - No, it's a bit...flashier. I'll take a picture later.
post #188 of 324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quesjac View Post

I was also wondering if we might talk here about some more local questions -- here are two I've been wondering about:

1. Has anyone seen the made in Italy marks and spencer range of jackets and suits? The jackets look quite modern (an unstructured linen triple patch for instance). If anyone has seen them in the flesh, this could be interesting. Assuming decent construction, m&s have been buying nice fabrics recently and I've been impressed, considering previous generations of 'inspired by Italy'.

Like you, I pass by so much M&S stuff but right now I'm wearing a pair of their beige Linen Miracle formal trousers I picked up NWT at Oxfam. I'm actually rather impressed. They do a 29" leg which is perfect for me, and their fabrics feel lovely. Naturally I wouldn't touch anything lower down their range. Maybe it will make me look a little more closely before pushing them aside on the rails.
post #189 of 324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quesjac View Post

Absolutely. But as ever with these things, it's a question of the factory and the people, and figuring out which branding matches which origin. I remember reading a decent article about the old factory in Crewe which I can't find now, though I did find this.

Edit: ah, so that black label is now literally gold in some jackets?

Based only on what I own:

Standard



Higher grade - what they seem to be calling gold label

post #190 of 324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Purplelabel View Post

I know what you mean. Buddah sent me some pleated chinos the other day, they are dated but they're damn awesome.
What are the length of yours?
The tape measure says around 29.5". I'm a 30" inside leg and there are two pairs with turn ups that are about right for me lengthwise, both are a 33" waist. If you are longer in the leg than me there is a little to turn down. They are white and mid blue.

The third pair are BNWT, but have been hemmed to 29.5" - no turn ups. 32 waist on those.

I've also got a a pair of Polo Golf shorts in dark blue and Tommy shorts in beige in the same size.
post #191 of 324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickd View Post


Based only on what I own:

Standard



Higher grade - what they seem to be calling gold label

Interesting, thanks! Now you mention it I have handled a jacket with the lower label, and it had handmade buttonholes etc. like the old stuff, so that all makes sense.

post #192 of 324
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nickd View Post


Based only on what I own:

Standard



Higher grade - what they seem to be calling gold label

Further to this, I believe the "black label" is made in Mauritius by Wensum (the website seems to be down but here it is -http://www.wensum.mu/#!about/c1men) who also make suits for Gieves & Hawkes, Richard James etc. 

 

I bought quite a nice hopsack wool triple patch blazer from this line from ebay not too long ago and the quality seems pretty good. 

 

Not sure where the Made in England "gold" stuff is made now. I think it was Cheshire Bespoke, but I believe they went bust not too long ago and were bought out (http://www.drapersonline.com/news/cheshire-bespoke-rescued-out-of-liquidation/5076668.fullarticle).

post #193 of 324
Interesting - I had assumed Italian for the black label jacket, but offshore somewhere like Mauritus would make sense.

The made in England jacket doesn't specify a maker - there is a handwritten label inside one of the pockets, but thats the only hint.
post #194 of 324
I apparently work at Oxfam. Third time this month I've been asked how much something is...
post #195 of 324

This is a unicorn for me, some Made in Italy M&S... and it feels amazing, I'm not going to lie. Ties a great looking knot, too!

 

 

 

 

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