This is all interesting. @Nickd would you say that the new mainline Chester Barrie is as good as the older stuff?
And in particular, do you know if this one:
Is a lower tier to this one:
I've handled 'chester by' and was utterly disappointed, measurably worse than newer M&S to my mind, and closer to the third-tier fashion brands. I also own a jacket and a suit on the older mainline label and they are easily the best constructed items I have worn.
I have a much harder time with all the mid-level brands in the UK, eg current Acquascutum, Savoy Tailors, DAKS, and the decision of the new owners of Row tailors to pull a Ralph Lauren and pump out diffusion lines has only complicated things.