tweedydon
Distinguished Member
- Joined
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I have a whole slew of beautiful jackets to pass on today, including some wonderful holiday tartans, custom-made Brooks with some political history attached, and more!
As always, I offer FREE SHIPPING ON EVERYTHING in the USA; International inquires are welcome, with shipping at REDUCED COST!
Also as always, ALL OFFERS ARE VERY WELCOME!
Please PM with interest and offers!
21) STUNNING Black Stewart Tartan Jacket from Dunn & Co. MADE IN BRITAIN
It really doesn't get much nicer than this! Cut from beautiful woolen cloth in the authentic Scottish tartan of Black Stewart, this jacket is absolutely perfect for holiday events, not the least because Black Stewart is traditionally a more formal tartan, and one that is becoming increasingly hard to find.
This could be worn casually or formally, with tuxedo trousers, formal dress, shirt, and a bow.
This jacket was made in Great Britain by Dunn & Co., the highly respected tailoring firm that are best known or their extremely well cut, extremely sturdy, and extremely traditional Harris Tweeds. (Indeed, in the 1950s and 1960s part of the rite of passage of becoming a successful American academic was to secure a visiting position at Oxford, Cambridge, Edinburgh, or St Andrews, and while there acquire a Dunn & Co. tweed!) The tailoring of this jacket is impeccable, living up to their excellent reputation. It is a traditional two button closure with subtle darts; fully canvassed, and fully lined. It has twin vents, as befits its British heritage. All of the buttons are brass, featuring a thistle motif--appropriately enough given the tartan from which this is cut! This jacket is in absolutely excellent condition--indeed, it was freshly dry cleaned and then stored in a cedar closet, so it's ready to wear.
Asking just $45, or offer.
Tagged 100XL, which translates to 39L. Measurements:
Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 26 1/8 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 32
22) SPECTACULAR and RARE Harris Tweed!
This is a wonderful jacket, and if it was just a bit smaller there's no way that it would be here, as I love the more unusual yet classic Harris patterns. Cut from a lovely traditional weight Harris Tweed, the patterning and colourway of this jacket are both wonderful. The base is a traditional and classic cream, slate grey, and peat black houndstooth; this is overlaid with windowpane overchecking in russet, the colour of bracken in late autumn. This really is a beautiful jacket!
It's a contemporary two button model, with subtle darts. It has three button cuffs. All of the buttons are traditional the traditional metal-shanked, leather-covered buttons that go so well with Harris--here, they're a lovely shade of rich chestnut that complements the overchecking perfectly. The jacket is half-canvassed and half-lined, and has a single centre vent. It was Union Made in the USA--and is in absolutely excellent condition!
Asking just $30, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 31 3/4
23) ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS Tartan 3/2 sack Jacket by Corbin for The English Shop of Princeton.
This is absolutely GORGEOUS! Made by Corbin, one THE great American Ivy clothiers, for The English Shop of Princeton, one of THE great purveyors of Ivy Style during its Golden Age, this wonderful jacket has a perfect Ivy heritage.
This could be worn casually or formally, with tuxedo trousers, formal dress, shirt, and a bow.
The tartan that this is cut from is absolutely wonderful--clearly an authentic Scottish tartan (although I can't identify it off-hand), the colourway is absolutely beautiful and subdued, perfect for evening wear.
Cut as a 3/2 sack with a lovely liquid lapel roll, this beautiful jacket has two button cuffs and a single vent. It is half-canvassed and fully lined. It features lovely natural shoulders--as you'd expect from a maker which had a line of TROUSERS called "The Natural Shoulder"! The buttons are all leather covered and metal shanked--these could easily be replaced with pewter if you wanted this to be a more formal evening jacket. The jacket was, of course, Union made in the USA. It's in absolutely excellent condition, having been recently dry-cleaned and then stored in a cedar closet.
Asking just $40, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 20 1/2
Sleeve: 26 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 31 3/4
24) BEAUTIFUL Contemporary 3/2 lambswool tweed sack from Brooks Brothers
This is a beautiful jacket! Cut from pure lambswool, this has a wonderfully soft hand and drape. The patterning and subtle and complex. The base is a chevron tweed in forest green, tan, and cream, overlaid with overchecking in forest green, slate blue, and russet bracken. This is cut as a 3/2 sack with a lovely fluid lapel and the traditional two button cuff. It is half-canvassed, and fully lined; the lining is a lovely shade of sepia rose. It has a single centre vent. This is a truly beautiful and distinctive jacket. It was, of course, Made in the USA.
This carries the old-school Brooks Brothers "block capitals on navy" label.
It is in excellent condition except for a single thread weave flaw on the left hand chest, and a similar weave flaw on the left cuff, as shown.
Asking just $27, or offer.
Tagged 44, this measures smaller:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 25 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 30 1/8
25) Brooks Brothers Camelhair in muted earthtone glen plaid
This is a wonderfully subdued jacket! Cut from extremely lovely camelhair, this has a wonderful hand and drape. The glen plaid patterning is a subtle medley or loden green, autumn bracken, and earth browns; this is a perfect jacket for a New England Fall just as the leaves are turning. It is subtly darted, and has a two button closure, four button cuffs, and a center vent. It is fully canvassed and fully lined. It is in absolutely excellent condition.
Asking just $25, or offer.
Tagged 42XL, this measures:
Chest: 22
Sleeve: 27 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 1/4
Length: 34
26) WONDERFUL Custom Tailored Tweed 3/2 sack by Brooks Brothers!
This is a wonderful jacket--and one attached to some political controversy!
This jacket was made in 1989 for John R. Fiorino... who made the headlines of the Washington Post in 1988 as a contributor to the Dukakis campiagn. Dukakis was running ads against George Bush (The Other One) criticizing him for being an elitist, and presented himself a a Man of the People. In response to this The Washington Post ran an article attacking Dukakis for being an elitist, noting that at least 50 wealthy Americans had contributed over $50,00 each to his campaign--and some had contributed as much as $100k! (Remember, this was 1988... and while these figures are large now, they were astronomical then! One of the wealthy American elite was the wealthy Chairman of the Monmouth Co., NJ, Democratic Party--John Fiorino... who commissioned this jacket just over one year later. (For the record, Fiorino contributed $80,000 to the Dukakis campaign--which would have bought a LOT of nice tweeds!)
Whatever you think of his politics, Fiorino had excellent taste in jackets! This beautiful 3/2 sack has a wonderfully liquid label roll, and is cut from a beautiful dove-grey herringbone tweed that's shot through with vertical striping of cream, baby blue, and sepia tea rose pink. It's absolutely lovely! And the tailoring on it is exquisite--it's absolutely beautifully cut, and the pattern matching on the back is beautiful. It's half-canvassed and half-lined, with a single centre vent. It has three button cuffs and faux buttonholes. It was, of course, Made in the USA. It's in excellent condition, and a steal--for either Democrats or Republicans--at
just $25, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 7/8
Sleeve: 23 1/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 3/4
Length: 29
27) A JACKET WITH AN AMERICAN TALE
This jacket is wonderful.... Not just for its own sake, but for the American stories that are woven into its fabric.
If the Brooks Brothers jacket, above, was a sign of the Establishment, this jacket is an example of the other end of the American spectrum--the self-made immigrants and long-time workers who built AMerican from the ground up, and made themselves wealthy in so doing.
Let's start with the jacket itself. Made by Schneider's Custom Tailoring of Pittsburgh, you might think that this was made by a tailoring firm with German origins. But it wasn't; Schneider's was owned and operated by Tonino Trivelli, an Italian immigrant to the United States. Trivelli had little formal education, since he began work as a tailor's apprentice in 1946, age 12. The Second World War was just over, and young Tonino needed to help contribute to the family finances in a devastated Europe. Through hard work and skill he rose to the rank of Master Tailor--no mean feat in Italy. At some point he emigrated to the United States, choosing as his destination Pittsburgh.... as he already had family connections in the large and vibrant Italian communities that supplied a lot of the labor to the local steel mills. There, he set up Schneider's Custom Tailoring, eventually managing to move into the prestigious Oliver Building, Pittsburgh's famous skyscraper. He'd arrived--and his clients knew it. You want first-rate Italian tailoring? You go to Schneider's.
And who better to be a client of his than another self-made man, Edward L. Solomon? A long-term Western PA working class family, his grandparents were in the steel industry as foremen and union bosses in Beaver Falls and Pittsburgh, probably employees of Crucible Steel. After serving in the Naval Air Corps Edward saved enough to buy Mercer Lime and Stone, which he expanded and made successful.
Steel, stone, and Italian tailoring from immigrants who started age 12.... This is an *American* jacket!
And it lives up to its heritage. Made in November 1993, this is a beautiful glen plaid check, this is cut from lighter-weight 11 1/2oz cloth; perfect for modern office environments, which is just what the CEO of Mercer Lime and Stone needed. The colourway is beautiful; muted and autumnal. This has patch pockets--always a desirable feature! It's half canvassed and half-lined, and has a single centre vent. It's subtly darted--as you'd expect from Italian tailoring--and has a two button closure. This is a wonderful example of Italian-American tailoring! It's in excellent condition.
Asking just $22 for a piece of American history, boxed and shipped in the USA.
Measurements:
Chest: 22
Sleeve: 23 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 30 1/2
28) Classic Tweed, cut from Dormeuil cloth!
This is a lovely understated tweed! This is made from cloth from Dormeuil, a French clothiers that has been in business since 1842. Dormeuil cloth is easily some of the best in the world, although whether its quality justifies its exceptionally high cost (higher than other superb fabrics, such as those by Holland & Sherry) is a matter for debate. Of course, the original cost of this fabric won't concern you since this is appearing here... But it does indicate that this is an exceptionally nice jacket indeed!
The Dormeuil cloth from which this jacket is cut is lovely; a miniature check in autumnal shades of chestnut, bracket, moss green, and tan, this is a very versatile jacket indeed. Made by Austin Reed, there's no country of manufacture listed, but judging by the twin vent it's either England, or, judging by the three button cuffs with no faux buttonholes, the USA. In either case, the quality of the tailoring is excellent; it's half-canvassed and fully lined, and has a contemporary two button front with subtle darting. It's in absolutely excellent condition, and given the quality of both the cloth and the tailoring is a steal at
just $24, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 27 1/2 (+ 1 3/4)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 32 1/2
29) CLASSIC Old-School Jos. A. Banks 3/2 sack herringbone tweed
Please don't confuse this with the current offerings from Jos. A Banks; this dates from its "Red Label" era, when it was a worthy rival to Brooks--and when Brooks was generally much better than it now is, too!
This is a classic 3/2 sack in brown and tan herringbone--if you don't have one of these in your wardrobe, you should! This has a very high lapel roll--almost a 2.5/3--with a lovely liquid roll. This features the classic two-button cuffs and a single center vent. It is half canvassed, Made in the USA, and has its original hang-tag intact. This is in absolutely excellent condition, and is a steal at
just $25, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 23 (+2)
SHoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 30 1/2
30) CLASSIC herringbone Harris Tweed
If you don't have a black and cream or slate blue herringbone Harris tweed in your wardrobe--why not? This is an absolute staple, and, together with a good navy blazer, should be part of the backbone of any classic wardrobe. So, if you don't have one--now's your chance!
This example is lovely! A wonderful greyish slate-blue herringbone, this has classic metal-shanked football buttons, a two button closure, and is subtly darted. It is half-canvassed, half-lined, and has a single centre vent. It was, of course, Made in the USA. It's in excellent condition, although the buttons have a slight amount of patina, as shown.
Asking just $25, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 20
Sleeve: 24 (+ 1)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 29 1/2
31) VINTAGE 3/2 sack in light loden twill
This is a SPLENDID jacket! Cut from a lovely thick twill in a light loden green, this beauty is a true 3/2 sack with a lovely lapel roll. It dates from between 1962 and 1972, judging by the Union Label, and was sold by Roots, one of the major purveyors of tradly items in New Jersey and Eastern PA. (And this has a wonderful vintage label from there!) It has a lovely lapel roll, and the twill is wonderfully durable and attractive--almost like keeper's tweed, except all-wool and with no cotton content. It has classic two button cuffs, and is half-canvassed and half-lined. It has a single centre vent. And, of course it was Made in the USA.
This is in excellent condition, except for one minor flaw.... Sometime around 1978 the original owner left two things in the lower left pocket: a list of instructions from one of his clients (he was a lawyer), which were typed out on a manual typewriter.... and some candy! Unfortunately, the candy "leaked" into the lining of the pocket, which is now stiff and candified. (And possibly edible.) This has no effect on the jacket, but my advice would be to have the pocket liner replaced--a simple and easy job for any competent dry-cleaner tailor.
Given this, this jacket is in Very Good condition overall, and hence is very well priced at just
$20, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+2 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 30
Pocket liner:
32) OLD SCHOOL Jos. A. Banks Herringbone Tweed--with THREE PATCH POCKETS!
Please put your prejudice against JAB items to one side, for this jacket dates from the tail end of the "red label" era, when Banks could rival Brooks for decent Tradly items!
This is a classic tweed in dark grey herringbone stripes while alternate with similarly dark grey barleycorn stripes, making this a lovely and interesting tweed that still appears classic and conservative at a distance. This jacket is a contemporary two button model with subtle darts. It also has THREE patch pockets at front--including the ever desirable patch breast pocket! This jacket is fully lined, and half-canvassed. It is unvented, in Flusser-approved style, and was Made in the USA.
It's in excellent condition, and is a steal at just $25, or offer.
Tagged 46L, this measures:
Chest: 25 1/4
Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 20 3/4
Length: 32 3/4
33) CLASSIC HARRIS TWEED in dark grey herringbone with chestnut accents!
This is a lovely, classic Harris! Cut from dark grey herringbone, this is accented throughout with flecks and vertical stripes of rich burnished chestnut brown, forest green, and dark blue--a wonderful example of this famous tweed! The jacket itself is a contemporary two button model, with subtle darts and a single centre vent. It is fully lined, and was Made in the USA. This is a lovely, classic wardrobe staple, and a bargain at just
$27, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/4
Sleeve: 24 (+2 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 31
34) Classic Tweed Hacking Jacket!
This is a lovely example of a durable tweed hacking jacket! Cut from grey and cream basketweave tweed, this lovely jacket has all of the features you'd expect from a hacking jacket; slanted, flapped, hacking pockets, a functional and slanted hacking ticket pocket, twin vents, and suede elbow patches! This also features a half-lining, it is subtly darted, and has a two button front and three button cuffs. All of the buttons are leather-covered, metal-shanked, football buttons.
This jacket was made for Jack Lang, a family-owned department store chain based in Philadelphia that started in 1952 and closed in 1991, two years after its founded, Jack Lang, sold the business.
This jacket is in absolutely excellent condition, and although there's no country of origin listed it was clearly Made in the USA.
Asking just $25, or offer, for this lovely classic tweed!
Measurements:
Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 25 (+2)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 30 1/4
35) LOVELY VINTAGE American Plaid Jacket
This is a lovely jacket! Cut from wonderfully thick and comfortable woolen cloth, the colourway and patterning of this jacket are quintessentially American--a lovely plaid with a base of very light tea rose lavendar with checking in cream, slate, and black. The jacket is half canvassed and half lined, with a twin vent. It has an ornamental ticket pocket, and the buttons are all metal shanked. It is a contemporary two button closure, and has subtle darting. It was, of course, Union made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.
Asking just $29, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 18 3/4
Length: 30 1/2
36) CLASSIC Trad./Ivy Haspel Wash-and-Wear jacket
A staple in the 1960s, Wash and Wear jackets have experienced a surge of popularity among trads as perhaps the most hard-wearing and comfortable of classic American summer wear. This jacket is a lovely example! Union made in the USA by Haspel, THE company for Ivy summer clothing, this is a lovely summery glen plaid. It's a contemporary two button model with subtle darts, a single centre vent and a quarter-lining. It has four button cuffs. This has a single thread pull on the lapel, as shown, which will be an easy fix; because of this and because this is an older piece, this is in Very Good condition, and hence is just
$18, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+1 34)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30
37) BESPOKE summer jacket from Philadelphia tailor!
This is wonderful! Made by the upscale Philadelphia tailor Vittorio Castagna (then located on 17th street) in April 1973, this is a classic 1960's - 1970's plaid jacket that's perfect for summer--as indeed this is the season it was built for! It features a twin vent and hacking pockets, is fully canvassed, and has three button cuffs. It is darted, and has a two button closure. It is fully lined, and is in absolutely excellent condition. Castagna's relocated to Walnut Street in 1988, near Gucci, Burberry, Jaeger, and Duchamps. This is a lovely jacket, in absolutely excellent condition!
Asking just $22, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 25 (+2)
SHoulder: 18 3/8
Length: 31
38) BEAUTIFUL linen jacket by Adolfo Dominguez 54
Far better known in Europe and the UK than in the USA, the Spanish designer Adolfo Dominguez is best know for his elegant unstructured clothes for both men and women--his retail outlet in Covent Garden, London, is easily one of the better shops in a largely tourist-orientated location. And, naturally, given the quality and classic nature of these clothes they're rather expensive, starting at around $100 for a shirt and climbing rapidly.
Even if you're not familiar with the brand this jacket will show at a glance why it's so popular. Cut from pure linen in a beautiful and classic black, grey, and cream gingham check, this jacket has a lovely unstructured feel to it--perfect for later Spring and Summer. It is half-canvassed, fully lined, and features twin vents; it also has beautifully narrow lapels and a three button front, together with subtle darting and natural shoulders, all of which (well, maybe not the darts!) made this reminiscent of the Golden Age of TNSIL style. There is a small blue thread detail to the lapel, which either is a feature of the jacket, or else was added to indicate that its original owner earned a Sporting Blue at either Oxford or Cambridge University.
This jacket is in excellent condition.
This is a lovely jacket, perfect for Summer, and hence a steal at just $16, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 23 1/4
Sleeve: 24 1/4 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 20
Length: 30 1/2
As always, I offer FREE SHIPPING ON EVERYTHING in the USA; International inquires are welcome, with shipping at REDUCED COST!
Also as always, ALL OFFERS ARE VERY WELCOME!
Please PM with interest and offers!
21) STUNNING Black Stewart Tartan Jacket from Dunn & Co. MADE IN BRITAIN
It really doesn't get much nicer than this! Cut from beautiful woolen cloth in the authentic Scottish tartan of Black Stewart, this jacket is absolutely perfect for holiday events, not the least because Black Stewart is traditionally a more formal tartan, and one that is becoming increasingly hard to find.
This could be worn casually or formally, with tuxedo trousers, formal dress, shirt, and a bow.
This jacket was made in Great Britain by Dunn & Co., the highly respected tailoring firm that are best known or their extremely well cut, extremely sturdy, and extremely traditional Harris Tweeds. (Indeed, in the 1950s and 1960s part of the rite of passage of becoming a successful American academic was to secure a visiting position at Oxford, Cambridge, Edinburgh, or St Andrews, and while there acquire a Dunn & Co. tweed!) The tailoring of this jacket is impeccable, living up to their excellent reputation. It is a traditional two button closure with subtle darts; fully canvassed, and fully lined. It has twin vents, as befits its British heritage. All of the buttons are brass, featuring a thistle motif--appropriately enough given the tartan from which this is cut! This jacket is in absolutely excellent condition--indeed, it was freshly dry cleaned and then stored in a cedar closet, so it's ready to wear.
Asking just $45, or offer.
Tagged 100XL, which translates to 39L. Measurements:
Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 26 1/8 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 17 3/4
Length: 32
22) SPECTACULAR and RARE Harris Tweed!
This is a wonderful jacket, and if it was just a bit smaller there's no way that it would be here, as I love the more unusual yet classic Harris patterns. Cut from a lovely traditional weight Harris Tweed, the patterning and colourway of this jacket are both wonderful. The base is a traditional and classic cream, slate grey, and peat black houndstooth; this is overlaid with windowpane overchecking in russet, the colour of bracken in late autumn. This really is a beautiful jacket!
It's a contemporary two button model, with subtle darts. It has three button cuffs. All of the buttons are traditional the traditional metal-shanked, leather-covered buttons that go so well with Harris--here, they're a lovely shade of rich chestnut that complements the overchecking perfectly. The jacket is half-canvassed and half-lined, and has a single centre vent. It was Union Made in the USA--and is in absolutely excellent condition!
Asking just $30, or offer, boxed and shipped in the USA.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 31 3/4
23) ABSOLUTELY GORGEOUS Tartan 3/2 sack Jacket by Corbin for The English Shop of Princeton.
This is absolutely GORGEOUS! Made by Corbin, one THE great American Ivy clothiers, for The English Shop of Princeton, one of THE great purveyors of Ivy Style during its Golden Age, this wonderful jacket has a perfect Ivy heritage.
This could be worn casually or formally, with tuxedo trousers, formal dress, shirt, and a bow.
The tartan that this is cut from is absolutely wonderful--clearly an authentic Scottish tartan (although I can't identify it off-hand), the colourway is absolutely beautiful and subdued, perfect for evening wear.
Cut as a 3/2 sack with a lovely liquid lapel roll, this beautiful jacket has two button cuffs and a single vent. It is half-canvassed and fully lined. It features lovely natural shoulders--as you'd expect from a maker which had a line of TROUSERS called "The Natural Shoulder"! The buttons are all leather covered and metal shanked--these could easily be replaced with pewter if you wanted this to be a more formal evening jacket. The jacket was, of course, Union made in the USA. It's in absolutely excellent condition, having been recently dry-cleaned and then stored in a cedar closet.
Asking just $40, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 20 1/2
Sleeve: 26 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 31 3/4
24) BEAUTIFUL Contemporary 3/2 lambswool tweed sack from Brooks Brothers
This is a beautiful jacket! Cut from pure lambswool, this has a wonderfully soft hand and drape. The patterning and subtle and complex. The base is a chevron tweed in forest green, tan, and cream, overlaid with overchecking in forest green, slate blue, and russet bracken. This is cut as a 3/2 sack with a lovely fluid lapel and the traditional two button cuff. It is half-canvassed, and fully lined; the lining is a lovely shade of sepia rose. It has a single centre vent. This is a truly beautiful and distinctive jacket. It was, of course, Made in the USA.
This carries the old-school Brooks Brothers "block capitals on navy" label.
It is in excellent condition except for a single thread weave flaw on the left hand chest, and a similar weave flaw on the left cuff, as shown.
Asking just $27, or offer.
Tagged 44, this measures smaller:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 25 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 19
Length: 30 1/8
25) Brooks Brothers Camelhair in muted earthtone glen plaid
This is a wonderfully subdued jacket! Cut from extremely lovely camelhair, this has a wonderful hand and drape. The glen plaid patterning is a subtle medley or loden green, autumn bracken, and earth browns; this is a perfect jacket for a New England Fall just as the leaves are turning. It is subtly darted, and has a two button closure, four button cuffs, and a center vent. It is fully canvassed and fully lined. It is in absolutely excellent condition.
Asking just $25, or offer.
Tagged 42XL, this measures:
Chest: 22
Sleeve: 27 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 1/4
Length: 34
26) WONDERFUL Custom Tailored Tweed 3/2 sack by Brooks Brothers!
This is a wonderful jacket--and one attached to some political controversy!
This jacket was made in 1989 for John R. Fiorino... who made the headlines of the Washington Post in 1988 as a contributor to the Dukakis campiagn. Dukakis was running ads against George Bush (The Other One) criticizing him for being an elitist, and presented himself a a Man of the People. In response to this The Washington Post ran an article attacking Dukakis for being an elitist, noting that at least 50 wealthy Americans had contributed over $50,00 each to his campaign--and some had contributed as much as $100k! (Remember, this was 1988... and while these figures are large now, they were astronomical then! One of the wealthy American elite was the wealthy Chairman of the Monmouth Co., NJ, Democratic Party--John Fiorino... who commissioned this jacket just over one year later. (For the record, Fiorino contributed $80,000 to the Dukakis campaign--which would have bought a LOT of nice tweeds!)
Whatever you think of his politics, Fiorino had excellent taste in jackets! This beautiful 3/2 sack has a wonderfully liquid label roll, and is cut from a beautiful dove-grey herringbone tweed that's shot through with vertical striping of cream, baby blue, and sepia tea rose pink. It's absolutely lovely! And the tailoring on it is exquisite--it's absolutely beautifully cut, and the pattern matching on the back is beautiful. It's half-canvassed and half-lined, with a single centre vent. It has three button cuffs and faux buttonholes. It was, of course, Made in the USA. It's in excellent condition, and a steal--for either Democrats or Republicans--at
just $25, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 7/8
Sleeve: 23 1/4 (+1 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 3/4
Length: 29
27) A JACKET WITH AN AMERICAN TALE
This jacket is wonderful.... Not just for its own sake, but for the American stories that are woven into its fabric.
If the Brooks Brothers jacket, above, was a sign of the Establishment, this jacket is an example of the other end of the American spectrum--the self-made immigrants and long-time workers who built AMerican from the ground up, and made themselves wealthy in so doing.
Let's start with the jacket itself. Made by Schneider's Custom Tailoring of Pittsburgh, you might think that this was made by a tailoring firm with German origins. But it wasn't; Schneider's was owned and operated by Tonino Trivelli, an Italian immigrant to the United States. Trivelli had little formal education, since he began work as a tailor's apprentice in 1946, age 12. The Second World War was just over, and young Tonino needed to help contribute to the family finances in a devastated Europe. Through hard work and skill he rose to the rank of Master Tailor--no mean feat in Italy. At some point he emigrated to the United States, choosing as his destination Pittsburgh.... as he already had family connections in the large and vibrant Italian communities that supplied a lot of the labor to the local steel mills. There, he set up Schneider's Custom Tailoring, eventually managing to move into the prestigious Oliver Building, Pittsburgh's famous skyscraper. He'd arrived--and his clients knew it. You want first-rate Italian tailoring? You go to Schneider's.
And who better to be a client of his than another self-made man, Edward L. Solomon? A long-term Western PA working class family, his grandparents were in the steel industry as foremen and union bosses in Beaver Falls and Pittsburgh, probably employees of Crucible Steel. After serving in the Naval Air Corps Edward saved enough to buy Mercer Lime and Stone, which he expanded and made successful.
Steel, stone, and Italian tailoring from immigrants who started age 12.... This is an *American* jacket!
And it lives up to its heritage. Made in November 1993, this is a beautiful glen plaid check, this is cut from lighter-weight 11 1/2oz cloth; perfect for modern office environments, which is just what the CEO of Mercer Lime and Stone needed. The colourway is beautiful; muted and autumnal. This has patch pockets--always a desirable feature! It's half canvassed and half-lined, and has a single centre vent. It's subtly darted--as you'd expect from Italian tailoring--and has a two button closure. This is a wonderful example of Italian-American tailoring! It's in excellent condition.
Asking just $22 for a piece of American history, boxed and shipped in the USA.
Measurements:
Chest: 22
Sleeve: 23 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 30 1/2
28) Classic Tweed, cut from Dormeuil cloth!
This is a lovely understated tweed! This is made from cloth from Dormeuil, a French clothiers that has been in business since 1842. Dormeuil cloth is easily some of the best in the world, although whether its quality justifies its exceptionally high cost (higher than other superb fabrics, such as those by Holland & Sherry) is a matter for debate. Of course, the original cost of this fabric won't concern you since this is appearing here... But it does indicate that this is an exceptionally nice jacket indeed!
The Dormeuil cloth from which this jacket is cut is lovely; a miniature check in autumnal shades of chestnut, bracket, moss green, and tan, this is a very versatile jacket indeed. Made by Austin Reed, there's no country of manufacture listed, but judging by the twin vent it's either England, or, judging by the three button cuffs with no faux buttonholes, the USA. In either case, the quality of the tailoring is excellent; it's half-canvassed and fully lined, and has a contemporary two button front with subtle darting. It's in absolutely excellent condition, and given the quality of both the cloth and the tailoring is a steal at
just $24, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 27 1/2 (+ 1 3/4)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 32 1/2
29) CLASSIC Old-School Jos. A. Banks 3/2 sack herringbone tweed
Please don't confuse this with the current offerings from Jos. A Banks; this dates from its "Red Label" era, when it was a worthy rival to Brooks--and when Brooks was generally much better than it now is, too!
This is a classic 3/2 sack in brown and tan herringbone--if you don't have one of these in your wardrobe, you should! This has a very high lapel roll--almost a 2.5/3--with a lovely liquid roll. This features the classic two-button cuffs and a single center vent. It is half canvassed, Made in the USA, and has its original hang-tag intact. This is in absolutely excellent condition, and is a steal at
just $25, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 23 (+2)
SHoulder: 19 1/2
Length: 30 1/2
30) CLASSIC herringbone Harris Tweed
If you don't have a black and cream or slate blue herringbone Harris tweed in your wardrobe--why not? This is an absolute staple, and, together with a good navy blazer, should be part of the backbone of any classic wardrobe. So, if you don't have one--now's your chance!
This example is lovely! A wonderful greyish slate-blue herringbone, this has classic metal-shanked football buttons, a two button closure, and is subtly darted. It is half-canvassed, half-lined, and has a single centre vent. It was, of course, Made in the USA. It's in excellent condition, although the buttons have a slight amount of patina, as shown.
Asking just $25, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 20
Sleeve: 24 (+ 1)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 29 1/2
31) VINTAGE 3/2 sack in light loden twill
This is a SPLENDID jacket! Cut from a lovely thick twill in a light loden green, this beauty is a true 3/2 sack with a lovely lapel roll. It dates from between 1962 and 1972, judging by the Union Label, and was sold by Roots, one of the major purveyors of tradly items in New Jersey and Eastern PA. (And this has a wonderful vintage label from there!) It has a lovely lapel roll, and the twill is wonderfully durable and attractive--almost like keeper's tweed, except all-wool and with no cotton content. It has classic two button cuffs, and is half-canvassed and half-lined. It has a single centre vent. And, of course it was Made in the USA.
This is in excellent condition, except for one minor flaw.... Sometime around 1978 the original owner left two things in the lower left pocket: a list of instructions from one of his clients (he was a lawyer), which were typed out on a manual typewriter.... and some candy! Unfortunately, the candy "leaked" into the lining of the pocket, which is now stiff and candified. (And possibly edible.) This has no effect on the jacket, but my advice would be to have the pocket liner replaced--a simple and easy job for any competent dry-cleaner tailor.
Given this, this jacket is in Very Good condition overall, and hence is very well priced at just
$20, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+2 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 30
Pocket liner:
32) OLD SCHOOL Jos. A. Banks Herringbone Tweed--with THREE PATCH POCKETS!
Please put your prejudice against JAB items to one side, for this jacket dates from the tail end of the "red label" era, when Banks could rival Brooks for decent Tradly items!
This is a classic tweed in dark grey herringbone stripes while alternate with similarly dark grey barleycorn stripes, making this a lovely and interesting tweed that still appears classic and conservative at a distance. This jacket is a contemporary two button model with subtle darts. It also has THREE patch pockets at front--including the ever desirable patch breast pocket! This jacket is fully lined, and half-canvassed. It is unvented, in Flusser-approved style, and was Made in the USA.
It's in excellent condition, and is a steal at just $25, or offer.
Tagged 46L, this measures:
Chest: 25 1/4
Sleeve: 26 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 20 3/4
Length: 32 3/4
33) CLASSIC HARRIS TWEED in dark grey herringbone with chestnut accents!
This is a lovely, classic Harris! Cut from dark grey herringbone, this is accented throughout with flecks and vertical stripes of rich burnished chestnut brown, forest green, and dark blue--a wonderful example of this famous tweed! The jacket itself is a contemporary two button model, with subtle darts and a single centre vent. It is fully lined, and was Made in the USA. This is a lovely, classic wardrobe staple, and a bargain at just
$27, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/4
Sleeve: 24 (+2 1/2)
Shoulder: 18 1/4
Length: 31
34) Classic Tweed Hacking Jacket!
This is a lovely example of a durable tweed hacking jacket! Cut from grey and cream basketweave tweed, this lovely jacket has all of the features you'd expect from a hacking jacket; slanted, flapped, hacking pockets, a functional and slanted hacking ticket pocket, twin vents, and suede elbow patches! This also features a half-lining, it is subtly darted, and has a two button front and three button cuffs. All of the buttons are leather-covered, metal-shanked, football buttons.
This jacket was made for Jack Lang, a family-owned department store chain based in Philadelphia that started in 1952 and closed in 1991, two years after its founded, Jack Lang, sold the business.
This jacket is in absolutely excellent condition, and although there's no country of origin listed it was clearly Made in the USA.
Asking just $25, or offer, for this lovely classic tweed!
Measurements:
Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 25 (+2)
Shoulder: 18
Length: 30 1/4
35) LOVELY VINTAGE American Plaid Jacket
This is a lovely jacket! Cut from wonderfully thick and comfortable woolen cloth, the colourway and patterning of this jacket are quintessentially American--a lovely plaid with a base of very light tea rose lavendar with checking in cream, slate, and black. The jacket is half canvassed and half lined, with a twin vent. It has an ornamental ticket pocket, and the buttons are all metal shanked. It is a contemporary two button closure, and has subtle darting. It was, of course, Union made in the USA, and is in excellent condition.
Asking just $29, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 3/4
Sleeve: 24 1/2 (+2 1/4)
Shoulder: 18 3/4
Length: 30 1/2
36) CLASSIC Trad./Ivy Haspel Wash-and-Wear jacket
A staple in the 1960s, Wash and Wear jackets have experienced a surge of popularity among trads as perhaps the most hard-wearing and comfortable of classic American summer wear. This jacket is a lovely example! Union made in the USA by Haspel, THE company for Ivy summer clothing, this is a lovely summery glen plaid. It's a contemporary two button model with subtle darts, a single centre vent and a quarter-lining. It has four button cuffs. This has a single thread pull on the lapel, as shown, which will be an easy fix; because of this and because this is an older piece, this is in Very Good condition, and hence is just
$18, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 21 1/2
Sleeve: 24 3/4 (+1 34)
Shoulder: 18 1/2
Length: 30
37) BESPOKE summer jacket from Philadelphia tailor!
This is wonderful! Made by the upscale Philadelphia tailor Vittorio Castagna (then located on 17th street) in April 1973, this is a classic 1960's - 1970's plaid jacket that's perfect for summer--as indeed this is the season it was built for! It features a twin vent and hacking pockets, is fully canvassed, and has three button cuffs. It is darted, and has a two button closure. It is fully lined, and is in absolutely excellent condition. Castagna's relocated to Walnut Street in 1988, near Gucci, Burberry, Jaeger, and Duchamps. This is a lovely jacket, in absolutely excellent condition!
Asking just $22, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 20 3/4
Sleeve: 25 (+2)
SHoulder: 18 3/8
Length: 31
38) BEAUTIFUL linen jacket by Adolfo Dominguez 54
Far better known in Europe and the UK than in the USA, the Spanish designer Adolfo Dominguez is best know for his elegant unstructured clothes for both men and women--his retail outlet in Covent Garden, London, is easily one of the better shops in a largely tourist-orientated location. And, naturally, given the quality and classic nature of these clothes they're rather expensive, starting at around $100 for a shirt and climbing rapidly.
Even if you're not familiar with the brand this jacket will show at a glance why it's so popular. Cut from pure linen in a beautiful and classic black, grey, and cream gingham check, this jacket has a lovely unstructured feel to it--perfect for later Spring and Summer. It is half-canvassed, fully lined, and features twin vents; it also has beautifully narrow lapels and a three button front, together with subtle darting and natural shoulders, all of which (well, maybe not the darts!) made this reminiscent of the Golden Age of TNSIL style. There is a small blue thread detail to the lapel, which either is a feature of the jacket, or else was added to indicate that its original owner earned a Sporting Blue at either Oxford or Cambridge University.
This jacket is in excellent condition.
This is a lovely jacket, perfect for Summer, and hence a steal at just $16, or offer.
Measurements:
Chest: 23 1/4
Sleeve: 24 1/4 (+1 3/4)
Shoulder: 20
Length: 30 1/2
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