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The "X" tightness of the suit jacket, should there be official exceptions?

post #1 of 4
Thread Starter 

Some members have suggested that even skinny folks wearing a larger size could still have the "X" being formed, here Chulillo has a valid point:

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chulillo View Post

I am not a believer that all the X we see in jackets are due to tightness... some times there has to be something else. I have OTR jackets that have never been altered and I have a very big drop (having plenty of space between my body and the fabric of the jacket) and you can see a small X around the button. It is not tightness because a fatter friend of mine tried that particular jacket (he has a 38/40 waist don't remember) and he could button the jacket, so figure... on him it looked terribly tight, but my point is, the jacket has enough room to be able to button that and it shows a small X on me sometimes. Could be the position you are, the way your pecs/shoulders are shaped, who knows...

Certainly with MTM that problem is more likely to go away but if your problem is an X the size of that one in the photo... I wouldn't go MTM unless you are obsessive about these things.
 

Here are some SF members with a slight X crease, which should be considered acceptable even in their MTM suits:

 

 

 

As you can see, these are not hip members following the disgusting super skinny suit fad, but are quite elegant and beautiful in their nicely fitted suits that still have a slight faded X crease.  This is why I think the "No X rule" should not be placed in the same category as the "slight faded creasing X", which is acceptable.  Thoughts?

post #2 of 4
Doesn't really bother me unless it's very noticeably. I have a MTM suit that pulls slightly because the top button is too high. But now I gained some weight and it's tight, so I'm going to let it out a bit.

The 3rd pic is exactly what I'm talking about. Button stance being high.
post #3 of 4
The no X rule speaks to a natural standing posture, arms at the side. An X is created by pulling at the button. In a standing position, there shouldn't be an X if the jacket fits well. The most common fit issue that leads to the X is the jacket waist is too small, but a number of other issues with fit can lead to it.

In most of your examples, the person is in motion or the arms aren't at his side, so some pulling occurs. But for those that are standing straight and still:

Too tight on Foo and it doesn't look good. Could be the picture.

SYCSYC, that jacket has some other issues. Look at the degree of wrinkling all along the right side of the jacket (not just at the button)

The guy below him (blue jacket), the jacket looks too tight, though that could be due to his arms. It doesn't look awful, but it doesn't look great. And it would look better if the jacket were let out just enough to get rid of the pulling.

I don't know who the last picture is of (Dennis Walter?), but it is too tight (possibly because of the sweater) and as a result doesn't look good.

---

In any case, pulling at the button is NEVER as good as no pulling at the button, all else equal. And it is usually a sign that the jacket is too small but it can be a sign of other fit issues.

It doesn't mean a person needs to go MTM and certainly not a reason to go bespoke. But it is a good reason to take the jacket in to a tailor. And if it is something a tailor can't fix, it's a good reason to no longer buy RTW jackets from that particular maker.

---
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)



post #4 of 4
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

The no X rule speaks to a natural standing posture, arms at the side. An X is created by pulling at the button. In a standing position, there shouldn't be an X if the jacket fits well. The most common fit issue that leads to the X is the jacket waist is too small, but a number of other issues with fit can lead to it.

In most of your examples, the person is in motion or the arms aren't at his side, so some pulling occurs. But for those that are standing straight and still:

Too tight on Foo and it doesn't look good. Could be the picture.

SYCSYC, that jacket has some other issues. Look at the degree of wrinkling all along the right side of the jacket (not just at the button)

The guy below him (blue jacket), the jacket looks too tight, though that could be due to his arms. It doesn't look awful, but it doesn't look great. And it would look better if the jacket were let out just enough to get rid of the pulling.

I don't know who the last picture is of (Dennis Walter?), but it is too tight (possibly because of the sweater) and as a result doesn't look good.

---

In any case, pulling at the button is NEVER as good as no pulling at the button, all else equal. And it is usually a sign that the jacket is too small but it can be a sign of other fit issues.

It doesn't mean a person needs to go MTM and certainly not a reason to go bespoke. But it is a good reason to take the jacket in to a tailor. And if it is something a tailor can't fix, it's a good reason to no longer buy RTW jackets from that particular maker.

--- Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


Fantastically detailed explanation.  Let's keep this thread alive.

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