I'm looking to get winter weight waistcoats made for general layering, either to be worn with tweed/flannel jackets or more likely with an overcoat, because it's often very cold out, but quite warm inside, but I like the utility of having pockets, or if I am wearing a tie, not having it flap around, or have to wear a tie pin, or in general I just like the buttons/area where trousers and shirt meet covered ala tradition.
I already have one in medium brown herringbone, and I'm looking to get something made in dark and then light-mid gray, but I'm stuck between donegal (Molloy or W Bill) or herringbone (Dugdale Caldonaire). What do we think is best, or does it matter? I also have an olive moleskin one, perhaps moleskin and corduroy are okay choices? I find that aside from being less durable, cotton fabrics are bulkier and aren't as well suited for layering.
I could also get them made in flannel or twill, but I think texture of tweed is best.
I'm probably not going to get checks and tattersall as they are a bit too over the top, not that a waistcoat isn't already a bit over the top.
I also have some casual linen waistcoats. If my main purpose is for the pockets, covering up of tie/shirt/etc, and not warmth, and it will only be the top layer in heated areas, do you think it's acceptable to just wear those underneath coat/overcoats?
The waistcoats are/will be casually styled: self back, inner pockets, lapels, and so on, and won't look like orphaned 3 piece items.