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Color and style combination: Black bow tie, vest and suit jacket

post #1 of 7
Thread Starter 

Hi Everyone

I am looking for some opinions according to an outfit idea I once had. It is a anthracite(-ish) HUGO suit jacket with vest and matching pants, oxblood full brogues and a matching belt, a white French cuff shirt, black thistle bow tie and a matching pocket square.

Is it a bad idea to wear a black bow tie to a suit that's not a Dinner Jacket if you're not wearing a wing collar in general?

What about a combination as rash as black (bow tie) and anthracite (suit)?

If all above works, what type of collar would suit the best: Cutaway, spread or forward point?

I am sorry if my idea is to radical or disturbing anyone, i am still a young fellah with tons to learn and a taste that is probably not ripe yet.

Thank you for any help you can provide

Jason

post #2 of 7

I couldn't imagine what you're describing in my mind's eye, so I googled a bit and found this:

 


Is that pretty close (besides the shoes)?

post #3 of 7

The only time you should be wearing a wing collar is if you're in a tuxedo or white tie, and you have highly-developed, highly-specific tastes. You should ABSOLUTELY NEVER WEAR A MATCHING TIE AND POCKET SQUARE. Literally. The only exception would be if you were asked to be in a person without taste's wedding party. 

 

If it's a "suit jacket with matching pants," you can just say "a suit" – that implies a jacket and pants, or in your case a three-piece suit.

 

A bowtie works best with a forward point or semi-spread collar (or a buttondown, but that would be too casual for what you're describing).

 

Nothing rash about black and gray. Little bit of "the invite says black tie but I only own a suit!" but the long vest dispels that somewhat. What occasion are you thinking of?

 

That said, what you're suggesting is too dressy for brown shoes, or brogues. Black captoes. And you really shouldn't wear a belt with a three-piece suit, since it tends to disturb the line of the vest.

post #4 of 7
Thread Starter 

Hi YRR92, Hi Palk

Thank you very much for your feedback, very much appreciated.

@YRR92 Of course I am certain about not wearing a same coloured pocket square and tie, by matching I meant matching to the fabric and pattern of shirt or suit, not in way of colour. Is that wrong too? I didn't want to impersonate black tie, of course in that case I would wear my tux. I wanted to know if that's something you could wear in a business formal event, willing to stand out a little. Is it to outstanding or something you should never do?

And is it that oxblood or brown doesn't go with anthracite or are brown brogues to informal with what I described? And no belt with a three piecer? Would you recommend braces then, even if the suit has belt loops?

 

@palk The picture below would be the suit itself, I wasn't able to try it on with what i described above. What do you think?

 

Again, thank you guys for the help, I didn't think i would get such immediate response.

 

Jason

post #5 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonBond View Post
 

I didn't want to impersonate black tie, of course in that case I would wear my tux. I wanted to know if that's something you could wear in a business formal event, willing to stand out a little. Is it to outstanding or something you should never do?

And is it that oxblood or brown doesn't go with anthracite or are brown brogues to informal with what I described? And no belt with a three piecer? Would you recommend braces then, even if the suit has belt loops?

 

Typically the word "formal" implies dark shades: black, royal or navy blue, charcoal grey.  That suit would definitely stand out in a group of much darker suits.

 

Brown in general is an informal color (which isn't to say brown outfits don't look sharp): try to imagine a brown full dress / tailcoat outfit and you'll see what I mean.  The go-to shoe for business formal, as YRR92 already pointed out is a black cap-toe oxford (which can have broguing if that's your style).

 

Waistcoats that fit properly in a three piece suit should cover the waistband. So if you're wearing a belt, at best it will cause the waistcoat to protrude along the waistband in an unsightly fashion, or at worst cause the waistcoat to ride up and bunch above the waistband.  So for three piece suits and other high-rise trousers with a waistcoat, go for braces.

post #6 of 7
Skip the bowtie. Too much like, "I don't have a tux but trying to look like I do."
post #7 of 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonBond View Post

@YRR92 Of course I am certain about not wearing a same coloured pocket square and tie, by matching I meant matching to the fabric and pattern of shirt or suit, not in way of colour. Is that wrong too? I didn't want to impersonate black tie, of course in that case I would wear my tux. I wanted to know if that's something you could wear in a business formal event, willing to stand out a little. Is it to outstanding or something you should never do?

And is it that oxblood or brown doesn't go with anthracite or are brown brogues to informal with what I described? And no belt with a three piecer? Would you recommend braces then, even if the suit has belt loops?

An exact match with the shirt is fine, if they're both solid white. Otherwise, it's a no-go.

 

Wearing a bowtie for business dress is like wearing a hank for business dress – it depends on your environment and your position within it. A lawyer in Charleston can wear things that a banker in Manhattan can't, and vice versa. Better to be the right kind of safe than the wrong kind of bold (though I do like the right kind of boldness). If you're talking about a social event with a "business formal" dress code, then you can dress to a higher level of formality. I wouldn't do solid black as a bowtie unless it was quite textured, and even then I think navy would be better. Really, I think any solid dark bowtie looks like something to wear with a tux – better to have a bit of pattern, even if it's subtle.

 

 

As to the issue of shoe formality, it's a bit of both. I wouldn't wear brown shoes with the darkest gray, though I might wear burgundy. But you're describing something at a level of formality that doesn't sit well with brown brogues – though if the suit is the one pictured, then it's not all that dark (really, "anthracite" is more a marketing name for a color than anything else), and the pattern helps dress it down. Still, with a black tie and a white shirt, black shoes are often the path of least resistance.

 

Yes, even if the suit has belt loops, braces are better with a vest. The belt loops will be hidden by the vest.

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