or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › What is most reasonably priced way to get a true Neapolitan sport coat/jacket?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

What is most reasonably priced way to get a true Neapolitan sport coat/jacket?

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
Hello everyone,

I am a huge fan of jackets like this (especially the soft, puckering shoulder):




Now, I have read that this kind of shoulder/fit is almost non-existent in RTW because this construction must be individually fitted. Still, I am wondering if good MTM options exist, or, if not, what the most reasonably priced, quality option is.

Also, feel free to correct me on the off chance the Jacket pictured isn't true Neapolitan style. I am a novice at this stuff.
post #2 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by dylantaylormoss View Post

Hello everyone,

I am a huge fan of jackets like this (especially the soft, puckering shoulder):




Now, I have read that this kind of shoulder/fit is almost non-existent in RTW because this construction must be individually fitted. Still, I am wondering if good MTM options exist, or, if not, what the most reasonably priced, quality option is.

Also, feel free to correct me on the off chance the Jacket pictured isn't true Neapolitan style. I am a novice at this stuff.

 

 

Here is a bespoke tailor in Naples that offers entirely handmade RTW options through No Man Walks Alone 

http://www.nomanwalksalone.com/index.php/makers/makersinfo/view/id/125/

post #3 of 11
That's Neapolitan style " con rollino" You may be confusing it
with the Spalla camicia, or shirtsleeve shoulder which has virtually
no padding.


http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?49543-Neapolitan-Shoulder-Explained

https://www.google.com/search?q=neapolitan+shoulder&client=safari&rls=en&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CCwQ7AlqFQoTCLSZ9uTuk8kCFc4siAodNdYD2A&biw=1348&bih=795

Personal note. When No Man Walks Alone was in San Francisco last month I tried on one of their Neapolitan
jackets which I believe was from Formosa. I wear 44R in Belvest, Isaia, Sartoria Partenopea. The sample
jacket in my "size" in no way fit across the chest and shoulders. I would try on any of their offerings, before
you order from the internet. And I have successfully purchased tailored clothing online.
Edited by comrade - 11/15/15 at 6:19pm
post #4 of 11
Thread Starter 
Seem like a trip to Italy might be the only good way. Con rollino !!
Edited by dylantaylormoss - 11/15/15 at 7:24pm
post #5 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post

That's Neapolitan style " con rollino" You may be confusing it
with the Spalla camicia, or shirtsleeve shoulder which has virtually
no padding.


http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?49543-Neapolitan-Shoulder-Explained

https://www.google.com/search?q=neapolitan+shoulder&client=safari&rls=en&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CCwQ7AlqFQoTCLSZ9uTuk8kCFc4siAodNdYD2A&biw=1348&bih=795

Personal note. When No Man Walks Alone was in San Francisco last month I tried on one of their Neapolitan
jackets which I believe was from Formosa. I wear 44R in Belvest, Isaia, Sartoria Partenopea. The sample
jacket in my "size" in no way fit across the chest and shoulders. I would try on any of their offerings, before
you order from the internet
. And I have successfully purchased tailored clothing online.

 

Free return shipping.   He can try them on and if they don't work out, off they go.  Obviously it's not meant to take advantage of, but NMWA offers it because they realize guys should be able to try stuff on without spending money.

post #6 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post

Free return shipping.   He can try them on and if they don't work out, off they go.  Obviously it's not meant to take advantage of, but NMWA offers it because they realize guys should be able to try stuff on without spending money.

Good point.
post #7 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by dylantaylormoss View Post

Seem like a trip to Italy might be the only good way. Con rollino !!

If you go, check w/ me so you can avoid staying at the hotel where I stayed
in Napoli last year. Although the breakfast buffet was almost worth the
the hotel's incompetence in other areas.
Edited by comrade - 11/15/15 at 8:01pm
post #8 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post

If you go, check w/ me so you can avoid staying at the hotel where I stayed
in Napoli last year. Although the breakfast buffet was almost worth the
the hotel's incompetence in other areas.

Good food can make up for much it's true. Which hotel was it? I'm curious. If I do go it will most likely be to Rome and then to Bitonto. That is, Bitonto if Sciamat isn't a lot more money than Ripense. Not sure if Ripense is used to making jackets in exactly this kind of style. That is someone who works at Sciamat pictured so obviously it's hard to beat that for me, even though I like Ripense's work.
post #9 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by dylantaylormoss View Post

Good food can make up for much it's true. Which hotel was it? I'm curious. If I do go it will most likely be to Rome and then to Bitonto. That is, Bitonto if Sciamat isn't a lot more money than Ripense. Not sure if Ripense is used to making jackets in exactly this kind of style. That is someone who works at Sciamat pictured so obviously it's hard to beat that for me, even though I like Ripense's work.


Hotel Miramare
http://www.hotelmiramare.com/en/

There are some excellent hotels on the same street at more or less the same rate as
I paid in Sept. 2014.

The main problem I had with the place was:

1. They screwed up a 'city tour" I requested, suggesting a private tour at triple the price
with someone who didn't know the difference between Gothic and Baroque archtecture
and insisted on taking me to several locations where Sophia Loren lived during her rise to
stardom.
2. They had to fix my toilet about six times in two days.
Edited by comrade - 11/16/15 at 1:04pm
post #10 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by dylantaylormoss View Post

Hello everyone,

I am a huge fan of jackets like this (especially the soft, puckering shoulder):




Now, I have read that this kind of shoulder/fit is almost non-existent in RTW because this construction must be individually fitted. Still, I am wondering if good MTM options exist, or, if not, what the most reasonably priced, quality option is.

Also, feel free to correct me on the off chance the Jacket pictured isn't true Neapolitan style. I am a novice at this stuff.

 

 

This aberration is a parody of the Spalla Insellata puffy shoulder. 

 

A well done true neapolitan jacket might cost you +-1000 euros aprox, the fashionista of the picture is completely hated by real Neapolitan tailors, the awful brand is called Sciamat. They like to profanate the real classic tailoring into a wild circus and is toltally unrespected by real tailors, serious dressers and tailoring critics. 

post #11 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SartodiNapoli View Post


This aberration is a parody of the Spalla Insellata puffy shoulder. 

A well done true neapolitan jacket might cost you +-1000 euros aprox, the fashionista of the picture is completely hated by real Neapolitan tailors, the awful brand is called Sciamat. They like to profanate the real classic tailoring into a wild circus and is toltally unrespected by real tailors, serious dressers and tailoring critics. 

The work Sciamat does does certainly seem unconventional, but I admit to liking the style. Whether I can feel at home wearing it consistently is another question. Who do you recommend? I've read a quote of about 1700 euros for a loro piana sport-coat bespoke from Ripense, which seems reasonable enough given the supposed quality of workmanship.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › What is most reasonably priced way to get a true Neapolitan sport coat/jacket?