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Manila Tailor - Page 20

post #286 of 585
I wouldn't say he's a last resort. I think he does very good work that is exceptional for the price. His downsides are these:
-fusing in suit chests and shirt cuffs/collars,
-deliveries tend to be late, but it depends on how busy he is,
-collar stays that are sewn-in
-low, loose collar on suit/sport coats as default,
-low armholes on coats as default,
-loose cuffs and short sleeves on shirts as default.
The latter three things are his defaults because that's what most RTW is like and what most customers expect. If you ask him to change these things, he does.

But he has some tremendous advantages:
-totally honest, humble, and professional,
-very good fit,
-very nice construction, including durable, hand-sewn buttonholes, bar tacks, etc.
-very flexible about customer requests,
-his pants are maybe 1/20th the price of the best HK and European tailors, but are 90% as good imo.
-he can make wool blend pants and linen sport coats that are machine washable.

It's a great family business imo. He also has a son who is learning the trade.
post #287 of 585

I recently interviewed the person behind Secret Armory Bespoke that was mentioned a few posts back. Should be a worthwhile read for the folks here. http://www.bespokemanblog.com/interview-eugenio-tidalgo-of-secret-armory-be
 

post #288 of 585
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

I wouldn't say he's a last resort. I think he does very good work that is exceptional for the price. His downsides are these:
-fusing in suit chests and shirt cuffs/collars,
-deliveries tend to be late, but it depends on how busy he is,
-low, loose collar on suit/sport coats as default,
-low armholes on coats as default,
-loose cuffs and short sleeves on shirts as default.
The latter three things are his defaults because that's what most RTW is like and what most customers expect. If you ask him to change these things, he does.
But he has some tremendous advantages:
-totally honest, humble, and professional,
-very good fit,
-very nice construction, including durable, hand-sewn buttonholes, bar tacks, etc.
-very flexible about customer requests,
-his pants are maybe 1/20th the price of the best HK and European tailors, but are 90% as good imo.
-he can make wool blend pants and linen sport coats that are machine washable.
It's a great family business imo. He also has a son who is learning the trade.

 



Thanks emptym!!! This is great info and detailed.

 

Now that we're talking about it, what would be the qualities of a perfect tailor (almost perfect at least)? As that's what i'm looking for! I understand that it also takes a level of knowledge from the consumer, but I'd like to know what to look for. Thank you!

post #289 of 585
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevinyapjoco View Post

I recently interviewed the person behind Secret Armory Bespoke that was mentioned a few posts back. Should be a worthwhile read for the folks here. http://www.bespokemanblog.com/interview-eugenio-tidalgo-of-secret-armory-be
 


Any feedback on the secret armory? Is he as good as this article looks?

 

And, does he have an actual shop? When did it open?

post #290 of 585
im am in the process of contacting secret armory right now. planning to have something done. will up date you guys
post #291 of 585

good stuff here guys

 

newbie here.

 

leaning about Cornell. and will be going there later.

 

anyone tried Naluzzi? Naluzzi costs 12k labor for suit/trousers. is that a fair price? is naluzzi really that good?

 

as you will soon see with my questions, i'm  a complete idiot when it comes to suits.

1. what's fused as against another term in here (which my morning brain already forgets)

 

with the fair price Cornell has, i'll opt for that. need bespoke, i'm kinda "big boned".. all right, fat. body isn't as trim as it used to be. think "CJ Corona" body type, but with thinner limbs.

 

by the way, didn't anyone notice how bad his suit was? or is it just me? i definitely don't want my suit to be riding up on me like that, hence, the bespoke suit.

 

also, i'm not the suit type (only my 2nd actually), but have tons of barong (mostly bespoke and some RTW). often times, my old kamuning tailor makes best office/formal barongs for my body type. doesn't ride up, good shoulder. "Off the rack" for me (due to my barrel body) often comes out as too long, both in short/long sleeves, and low hemline ('bout 4 inches lower than crown jewels).

 

just need this suit for a wedding for which i'm godfather for nth time, but first time in a suit! 

 

if i'm going to have a suit made, better be good, as i'm not getting another one. also, black or dark grey?

 

shoes and watches, on the other hand, is my passion. so no worries on what shoe color or watch thickness needed.

 

just need advise on what color suit i'll have made. 2 or 3 piece suit (personally leaning towards 3-pc...to get that "..it was Barzini all along" kind of aura). but don't quote me on that.

 

thanks,

 

Ponj

post #292 of 585
Pretty much everyone here will recommend dark gray, and I would too. A vest doesn't seem very practical to me in the heat, but go for it if you've wanted one for a while.
post #293 of 585

ponj68: My preference goes for a first suit is either gray or navy. Personally, I think the latter is more versatile. When I had a 3-piece suit, I rarely wore them together due to Manila's weather. I usually wore the jacket or the vest separately.

 

P.S. My first post. =) Long time lurker of this subforum.

post #294 of 585

Is there a website for Secret Armory Bespoke?

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevinyapjoco View Post

I recently interviewed the person behind Secret Armory Bespoke that was mentioned a few posts back. Should be a worthwhile read for the folks here. http://www.bespokemanblog.com/interview-eugenio-tidalgo-of-secret-armory-be
 

post #295 of 585

Secret Armory Bespoke doesn't have a website. Best to contact him via email.

Quote:
Originally Posted by font View Post
 
post #296 of 585

Hey guys. I live in Canada and am currently staying in Manila for a few weeks. Im not really knowledgable on fabric, style lingo and terms of a real detailed suit but I know a great looking suit when I see it. Now you know a bit of my background, I would appreciate any help from more knowledgable gurus from Manila.

 

I recently got the best suit ever from http://www.indochino.com/. Has anyone tried it? (Great business idea from my fellow Canadians!) I wanna get a tweed suit for the Fall / Winter. I would like the same style and detail options from Indochino (try going through an online purchase, they will give you all the options as you go. you don't have to make a purchase to see the options) but I recently found talking to the local tailors here difficult as I speak English and I think they have a hard time understanding my Canadian / American accent. I totally understand Tagalog but don't speak it fluently and I would like the tailor to follow my suit details / fit by bringing it to them but I feel like I need a better, knowledgable person to enlighten me on the fabrics as it will be too late for me to get their swatches mailed to Manila. http://www.indochino.com/tailors-kit/about

 

I love Indochino as the best e-tailor to be more cost effective than getting a tailor in Canada but I wanna see what it would be like to get a Manila tailor at a better labour cost. here are the things I would purchase from them but I would like to know if I should take a chance here in Manila or should just fuck off and get it from Indochino

 

http://www.indochino.com/collection/Chambray-Shirts

http://www.indochino.com/product/la-boca-red-chinos

http://www.indochino.com/product/The-Excursionist-Blue-Trenchcoat

 

I also like the details of Bonobos back pockets. http://www.bonobos.com/welcome/r# check out their video on the homepage.

 

I would like to get chinos, denim jeans, plaid dress shirts, chambray & gingham to name a few. 

 

I think I can trust the tailors in Manila but what I really wanna get is peace of mind and the best fabric around. Come to think of it, all I have to provide them are the pictures of the details I want but I don't know where I can get the perfect fabric. It is one thing to see the rolls of fabric but seeing the final product is another thing.

 

I work out and take care of my body and it would be a crime to the ladies if I don't get more and more custom made dress shirts & pants. I was even thinking about getting sleeveless dress shirts to show off the guns!

 

manila style gurus, please enlighten me.

post #297 of 585
Is cornell's a good place for pants and linen barongs?
post #298 of 585
Quote:
Originally Posted by kalye View Post

Is cornell's a good place for pants and linen barongs?

Yes.
post #299 of 585
Thanks man!
Edited by kalye - 7/7/12 at 6:17am
post #300 of 585
Quote:
Originally Posted by JayVilla View Post

Hey guys. I live in Canada and am currently staying in Manila for a few weeks. Im not really knowledgable on fabric, style lingo and terms of a real detailed suit but I know a great looking suit when I see it. Now you know a bit of my background, I would appreciate any help from more knowledgable gurus from Manila.
[...]
manila style gurus, please enlighten me.

Well, wait til they see you coming. Ka-ching! You've got the cart before the horse, and I think you're setting yourself up for disappointment. Learn the lingo. Know what you want. And more importantly, what's the right look for you. Know how to articulate it to someone who's willing and able to make it happen. Invest the time now or you'll be wasting money later.

That being said, if you've read this thread most customers have been, at best,... satisfied. Do you think that's a good return on investment?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JayVilla View Post

I would like to get chinos, denim jeans, plaid dress shirts, chambray & gingham to name a few.

I think this a safer alternative to jumping all in for a suit. Lots of info in this thread re this.
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