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British Made - Floating Cavas - Off the Peg - Suits

post #1 of 12
Thread Starter 

Hi

 

I am having great difficulty in dressing well on a medium budget, and was hoping some people can help me out.

 

There has been an explosion of online tailors recently who can customise all forms of suits, but in my view customisation does not equal dressing well.  By dressing well, I pretty much mean clothing that is hand made in Britain (I know suits made in other counties can be good, but it is just not what I am looking for).  Yes you can get MTM and Bespoke on the row, but I'm looking for something that is much more accessible, both in terms of price and location.

 

In terms of footwear, I think there is reasonable access though brands like Loakes, Barker or Herring, and you can scale up from there if you wish.  These bands all provide hand made shoes made using a traditional last and Goodyear welted sole.  However when it comes to suits with a floating canvas, these are so much less accessible.  The internet tailors do not provide this, and the row is just too cost and location prohibitive.  What I would be looking for is British made, floating canvas, off the peg suits.  Therefore, I was hoping that we can perhaps start to identify any suitable brands which sell such suits at a reasonable price.

 

The brand suitsupply seem to have a good model, but their suits are not made in Britain.  So are you lovely Style Forum people aware of any brands that fit it bill?

 

Thanks

 

Colin


Edited by Freddy Smith - 10/26/15 at 9:06am
post #2 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Freddy Smith View Post
 

Hi

 

I am having great difficulty in dressing well on a medium budget, and was hoping some people can help me out.

 

There has been an explosion of online tailors recently who can customise all forms of suits, but in my view customisation does not equal dressing well.  By dressing well, I pretty much mean clothing that is hand made in Britain (I know suits made in other counties can be good, but it is just not what I am looking for).  Yes you can get MTM and Bespoke on the row, but I'm looking for something that is much more accessible, both in terms of price and location.

 

In terms of footwear, I think there is reasonable access though brands like Loakes, Barker or Herring, and you can scale up from there if you wish.  These bands all provide hand made shoes made using a traditional last and Goodyear welted sole.  However when it comes to suits with a floating canvas, these are so much less accessible.  The internet tailors do not provide this, and the row is just too cost and location prohibitive.  What I would be looking for is British made, floating canvas, off the peg suits.  Therefore, I was hoping that we can perhaps start to identify any suitable brands which sell such suits at a reasonable price.

 

The brand suitsupply seem to have a good model, but their suits are not made in Britain.  So are you lovely Style Forum people aware of any brands that fit it bill?

 

Thanks

 

Colin


In related news, I too, would like a lamboghini for the price of a toyota corolla. Doesn't mean I will get it.

 

Suitsupply is half canvassed, but what you are describing is you want a fully canvassed suit. Just because a suit is made in Italy does not mean it is italian styling. Tom Ford, RLPL & RLBL are all made in italy but have British inspiration (TF - Huntsman, RLPL - A&S, & RLBL - Antonin Sinclair - early bond suits).

 

You're looking at a hefty price tag if you want a handmade fully canvassed suit. 

post #3 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonathanS View Post


In related news, I too, would like a lamboghini for the price of a toyota corolla. Doesn't mean I will get it.

Suitsupply is half canvassed, but what you are describing is you want a fully canvassed suit. Just because a suit is made in Italy does not mean it is italian styling. Tom Ford, RLPL & RLBL are all made in italy but have British inspiration (TF - Huntsman, RLPL - A&S, & RLBL - Antonin Sinclair - early bond suits).

You're looking at a hefty price tag if you want a handmade fully canvassed suit. 

I never said I wanted bespoke for the price of off the peg mate. I said I want a full floating canvas off the peg as that should bring the cost down. I appreciate it is not going to be cheap, that's not what I am looking for.

Suit Supply's Jort, La Spalla and Hartford are all full canvas. The rest are half canvas.
post #4 of 12
Turnbull & Asser
post #5 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ich_Dien View Post

Turnbull & Asser

Thanks. How do access them? No otp suits on thier website.
post #6 of 12
On-line tailor = disaster. Just look at the debris the be found here.
post #7 of 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Freddy Smith View Post

I never said I wanted bespoke for the price of off the peg mate. I said I want a full floating canvas off the peg as that should bring the cost down. I appreciate it is not going to be cheap, that's not what I am looking for.

Suit Supply's Jort, La Spalla and Hartford are all full canvas. The rest are half canvas.

I repeat, just because a suit is made in england does not mean it is english styling; just because a suit is made in italy does not mean it is italian styling. Further, British styling varies greatly from house to house - look at huntsman vs. anderson & sheppard.  I'd hardly call Ozwald Botang (don't get his stuff) English - I'd lump him in with dolce gabanna. 

 

If you want handwork RTW, you're looking at Attolini, Oxxford, RLPL, Kiton & Brioni. All going to run you north of 4-5K USD. You're really going to pay a lot for the handwork.  I don't think you really want handwork, you really just want fully canvassed machine-made suits, like Zegna, Canali, etc.  For English styling, I think Sameulsohn has a line, Ralph Lauren Black Label, I think, is very early James Bond inspired. 

 

Heck, I think I even saw Huntsman RTW is made in Italy (check that), but St. Andrews, if I am not mistaken (check that as well); Thom Sweeney RTW sold on Mr. Porter is made in Italy now, according to Mr. Porter's website.

 

Shoes-wise, Loake, Barkers & Herring are not hand welted. For handwork on shoes, its expensive.  I don't even think G&G is hand welted (maybe it is, look it up on the forum). Why not spend a little bit more and go for either Crockett and Jones or Alfred Sargent though? I find the lasts of those 2 are more elegant than Loake, and the quality is better.

 

Finally, just because you spend a lot or a little amount of money on clothes does not mean you dress well or poorly.

post #8 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonathanS View Post

I repeat, just because a suit is made in england does not mean it is english styling; just because a suit is made in italy does not mean it is italian styling. Further, British styling varies greatly from house to house - look at huntsman vs. anderson & sheppard.  I'd hardly call Ozwald Botang (don't get his stuff) English - I'd lump him in with dolce gabanna. 

If you want handwork RTW, you're looking at Attolini, Oxxford, RLPL, Kiton & Brioni. All going to run you north of 4-5K USD. You're really going to pay a lot for the handwork.  I don't think you really want handwork, you really just want fully canvassed machine-made suits, like Zegna, Canali, etc.  For English styling, I think Sameulsohn has a line, Ralph Lauren Black Label, I think, is very early James Bond inspired. 

Heck, I think I even saw Huntsman RTW is made in Italy (check that), but St. Andrews, if I am not mistaken (check that as well); Thom Sweeney RTW sold on Mr. Porter is made in Italy now, according to Mr. Porter's website.

Shoes-wise, Loake, Barkers & Herring are not hand welted. For handwork on shoes, its expensive.  I don't even think G&G is hand welted (maybe it is, look it up on the forum). Why not spend a little bit more and go for either Crockett and Jones or Alfred Sargent though? I find the lasts of those 2 are more elegant than Loake, and the quality is better.

Finally, just because you spend a lot or a little amount of money on clothes does not mean you dress well or poorly.

Thanks Jonathan. I probably do mean machine made full canvased. I'll have a look at the brands you mentioned. I still would like british made though.

As for shoes, I would love to wear C&J but I think Loakes etc are good value and half the price. They have been handmade since 1880, and they have a lot of lasts, some more eligant than others.
post #9 of 12
Historically, there was Chester Barrie, whose production standards were up there with the best of the RTW companies.

C.B. went through lots of changes, and the Chester Barrie was separated from the production side of things. The latter went through insolvency, with several attempts to re-start production in Crewe. The most recent is Cheshire Bespoke (sic), started by Tony Lutwyche. I guess they make/made for C.B. and Marks & Spencer (Best of Britain?), among others. If you pursue the C.B. route, make sure you get the right line of make, as they offer the cheaper Chester line as well. I don't know for certain about whether C.B. even offer a full canvas product these days, but it may.

I would presume there are other firms which use Cheshire Bespoke for production. However, I don't know about its current status; see this: http://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/markets/article-3140791/British-tailor-facing-insolvency-cut-orders-high-street-giant-Marks-Spencer.html
post #10 of 12
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by shoefan View Post

Historically, there was Chester Barrie, whose production standards were up there with the best of the RTW companies.

C.B. went through lots of changes, and the Chester Barrie was separated from the production side of things. The latter went through insolvency, with several attempts to re-start production in Crewe. The most recent is Cheshire Bespoke (sic), started by Tony Lutwyche. I guess they make/made for C.B. and Marks & Spencer (Best of Britain?), among others. If you pursue the C.B. route, make sure you get the right line of make, as they offer the cheaper Chester line as well. I don't know for certain about whether C.B. even offer a full canvas product these days, but it may.

I would presume there are other firms which use Cheshire Bespoke for production. However, I don't know about its current status; see this: http://www.thisismoney.co.uk/money/markets/article-3140791/British-tailor-facing-insolvency-cut-orders-high-street-giant-Marks-Spencer.html

 

Thanks for this.  I have a "Cheshire Bespoke" RTW on it's way to me as we speak to see what it is like.  I think it is only a half canvas, but I'll see what it's like when it arrives.

post #11 of 12
Thread Starter 
Just reading a little more about M&S Best of British range, and hope I am plesently surprised that the CB suit on it's way to me is a full canvas.
post #12 of 12
How did you get on with the new suit? My recent suits have been Jaeger - British wool cloth but sadly not British made.
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