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post #76 of 545

Timely post, ThriftVader. I had tried to rebuild a sticking caliper, got the seal kit from RockAuto.com but couldn't blow the piston out. Ended up with a re-manufactured unit, and some braided steel brake lines.

 

I'll be replacing my front rotors and pads tomorrow. Anybody want more pics?

post #77 of 545
Thread Starter 

Legacy GTB Parts are really common here. they are the ultimate family wagon in winter. so they are everywhere. Mrs Vader has a Badass one. any part you need is probably not far away.

i can assist with sourcing parts,for those and Legacy B4's but postage will be up and down. -not to forget my beer commission. ;) 

 

@Close Horse your caliper piston/Cylinder was probably Jammed up like mine were.if we both post our front swaps, it might make other members more confident to try it themselves, and we might also have different obstacles to the task, also, share your ride, what are you working on?


Edited by Thrift Vader - 10/15/15 at 12:36pm
post #78 of 545
Excited for the brake bleed post. I've always worried I'd muck that up. Awesome write up as always TV!
post #79 of 545
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cj52racers View Post

Excited for the brake bleed post. I've always worried I'd muck that up. Awesome write up as always TV!

Thanks! :fistbump:
Well, i upgraded the front calipers today. the front Calipers were in the same shape as the rears were:
 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

in PM, you asked if the new ones were bigger, so i thought i'd post them here. the above Brakes are factory GC8 Impreza STI kit, which are similar to Legacy B4 units, generally, if you swap Brakes on a Subaru (other cars too i guess) swap the whole kit to make your life easier. unless you know the differences.  these are my new Brakes:

The new ones are a "hand me down" from the local car guys, (Car guys rule) when they heard i was getting the shop trash can back on the road. more freebies in future. anyway, These are From a BP5 Legacy. (2007?) - you can see the discs are larger, and with equally adequate Calipers my braking capacity should be up 30% with some good pads and discs. just using what is here for now. because hey, it's free. :fonz:

painted them up to match the Bh5 Legacy/Gc8 Impreza Combo in the rear. this upgrade really was a simple bolt -on, no custom work needed.

y

eah, it's night time, and fitting Front Brakes is soooooooo fun in the dark. :rolleyes: so is brake fluid and hand cuts.

we bled the brakes, got it all done  now my car should have great braking control.  it was too dark to document bleeding the brakes, so i searched for a vid where they used a similar method.  this is the simplest and most reliable way to do it:

have your friend pump the brakes, say, 4 times. and hold the pedal down, keeping the pressure on. you release the fluid from the valve and close it when the initial air is out and liquid comes out steadily.your friends foot will go to the floor. tell them to hold it there, while you close the valve, then repeat 3 times. pumping the brakes to go again.    start at the furthest corner. and work your way to the closest one. do them all twice for a solid result.   the vid is so you can see it done. * remember to top up the fluid after each corner if needed. :nodding:

post #80 of 545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cj52racers View Post

And Huntsman, I fucking love the XJS. That 5.3l has such a nice sound. I've never taken on a full painting, so I can't help you there, but best of luck! I'm sure @Thrift Vader will have some advice for you!

 

Thanks. I've had the car for a long time and she needs to be back to her former glory.

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nobleprofessor View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thrift Vader View Post

so may questions, original color?  rust repair? where are you going to paint it? and how comfortable are you with the task? 
if you could post some pics, and /or pm me? perhaps we can all help make this easier for you. it is not a hard task, but it is labor intensive. you can do it with some coaching. I am sure the rest of us would really like to follow your progress.

Regarding the paint job, from what I understand, preparation is about 90% of what makes a good paint job. If the surface to be painted in ready and prepared your finish surface will be so much better.

I'm also curious about where you are going to paint it. Do you have spray booth? Or access to it? Are you doing two stage? What kind of paint?


By the way @Huntsman it's not the 12 cylinder, is it?

 

Yes, the original color (I'd like to change it but it's too much more work). The car has very little visible rust, a little on the lower ends of each rear quarter. After I strip the externals and do the first sanding, I plan to take it to a local shop and have them cut out and replace those sections -- too much for me to do).  Between my father and I we have a 7-car garage and a barn, so I am planning on building a spray booth inside one or the other. This guy: http://www.mckennasgarage.com/xke/jag_25.htm had a good writeup on it.

 

I am just in the research phase now, but I am thinking two stage, and that I will get two guns, one for prime and one for the base/clear. I plan to start stripping the car of trim and such once it gets cold, and perhaps start the sanding.

 

~ H

post #81 of 545
The write-up from my weekend job. Mostly redundant with Thrift Vader's one above, but hopefully readers can learn something new. I'll try to be as clear as possible, aiming this at first-timers with a bunch of detail. Questions and suggestions welcome.

Symptom: Over the last 2 weeks or so I have had a shimmy in the steering when braking from 40mph and higher. Coming off a highway exit ramp was particularly bad. As I found out, the front rotors were trashed.

I replaced my front brake discs and pads, lubed the caliper slide pins, and bled the front brakes. Total time was about 60 mins, total cost around $140 ($67 per rotor x2 and the rest the small amount of fluids I used). I'd previously paid independent mechanics to do it at a cost of just above $400. No thank you.





Getting Started (Click to show)
Lay out your materials. You'll need:




Jack & jack stands to lift and hold the car
Tire iron to remove the wheels
Replacement brake rotors (I got mine from FCP Euro, which ships from nearby and for free, good for a package weighing 45lbs). They also came with new caliper bolts.
Replacement pads
Ratchet and appropriate socket (15mm for me) to remove caliper bolts
Breaker bar for leverage
Torque wrench for putting back caliper bolts and lugnuts to spec
Wire brush to clean hub surface
Coat hanger to hold caliper. I ended up using an upturned bucket.
Penetrating spray, Brakleen, Sil-Glyde, Anti-Seize, paper towels
Plastic tubing and bleed bottle
Beverage of choice.

With the wheels on the ground, break the lugs. Jack the car up, support with jack stands on each side, and finish removing the wheel:

Remove caliper and rotor (Click to show)
Locate the caliper bolts. There should be an upper and lower on the inside of the caliper. I'm pointing to the upper here. Spray with penetrating spray and let soak for a few minutes to coax loose easier.



Remove caliper bolts and pull caliper off. Support by hanging with bungee, wire, or setting on a bucket. This is to prevent stress on the brake line.



Without lugnuts or caliper holding the rotor to the hub, the rotor is ready to come off. Mine didn't need any coaxing but will often be rusted solid to the hub. Hit with a rubber hammer if necessary.

The inner surface of the rotors. New on left, busted on right.

Re-install rotor and caliper (Click to show)
Take a wire brush and knock off as much rust as you can from the hub.



Spray a quick hit of brake cleaner on the rotor and wipe down. Removes the oil film of the rust-inhibitor they are shipped in.

Put some anti-seize paste on the mating surface of the hub or rotor to help your future self next time:



Slide the rotor on, hold it steady with a lug nut.



I replaced the pads in each side of the caliper, then put the caliper back on the rotor.

Re-attach two caliper bolts.

Bleed the brake lines (Click to show)
Find the bleed screw on the caliper, attach some plastic tubing and feed that into a clean plastic bottle with a little brake fluid.



Using the right tool will make a big difference. The bleed screws are soft metal, in an area exposed to a lot of road grime and salt. A flare-nut wrench like the one on the right is your best friend. Using a conventional wrench as on the left will likely lead you to stripping the bleeder and giving up.




I used the two-person method like this:
1. Have friend pump brake pedal until firm.
2. Loosen bleeder screw while he slowly depresses brake pedal.
3. At the end of pedal travel close the bleeder back up.
4. Repeat until fluid runs without any air bubbles in it.
5. Move to other side.


Aftermath
Another shot of the old rotor with warped surface:



New rotor in wheel:



Front view:



Booty:



Interior (after test drive, before overdue vacuuming):



Street cred:


Edited by Close Horse - 10/18/15 at 2:09pm
post #82 of 545
Excellent write up!
post #83 of 545
I just use a C-clamp and an old brake pad to force the caliper piston back in, so I don't have to release any pressure on the system or bleed the lines when I'm done.
post #84 of 545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Close Horse View Post

The write-up from my weekend job. Mostly redundant with Thrift Vader's one above, but hopefully readers can learn something new. I'll try to be as clear as possible, aiming this at first-timers with a bunch of detail. Questions and suggestions welcome.

Symptom: Over the last 2 weeks or so I have had a shimmy in the steering when braking from 40mph and higher. Coming off a highway exit ramp was particularly bad. As I found out, the front rotors were trashed.

I replaced my front brake discs and pads, lubed the caliper slide pins, and bled the front brakes. Total time was about 60 mins, total cost around $140 ($67 per rotor x2 and the rest the small amount of fluids I used). I'd previously paid independent mechanics to do it at a cost of just above $400. No thank you.




  Getting Started (Click to show)
Lay out your materials. You'll need:




Jack & jack stands to lift and hold the car
Tire iron to remove the wheels
Replacement brake rotors (I got mine from FCP Euro, which ships from nearby and for free, good for a package weighing 45lbs). They also came with new caliper bolts.
Replacement pads
Ratchet and appropriate socket (15mm for me) to remove caliper bolts
Breaker bar for leverage
Torque wrench for putting back caliper bolts and lugnuts to spec
Wire brush to clean hub surface
Coat hanger to hold caliper. I ended up using an upturned bucket.
Penetrating spray, Brakleen, Sil-Glyde, Anti-Seize, paper towels
Plastic tubing and bleed bottle
Beverage of choice.

With the wheels on the ground, break the lugs. Jack the car up, support with jack stands on each side, and finish removing the wheel:
Remove caliper and rotor (Click to show)
Locate the caliper bolts. There should be an upper and lower on the inside of the caliper. I'm pointing to the upper here. Spray with penetrating spray and let soak for a few minutes to coax loose easier.



Remove caliper bolts and pull caliper off. Support by hanging with bungee, wire, or setting on a bucket. This is to prevent stress on the brake line.



Without lugnuts or caliper holding the rotor to the hub, the rotor is ready to come off. Mine didn't need any coaxing but will often be rusted solid to the hub. Hit with a rubber hammer if necessary.

The inner surface of the rotors. New on left, busted on right.
Re-install rotor and caliper (Click to show)
Take a wire brush and knock off as much rust as you can from the hub.



Spray a quick hit of brake cleaner on the rotor and wipe down. Removes the oil film of the rust-inhibitor they are shipped in.

Put some anti-seize paste on the mating surface of the hub or rotor to help your future self next time:



Slide the rotor on, hold it steady with a lug nut.



I replaced the pads in each side of the caliper, then put the caliper back on the rotor.

Re-attach two caliper bolts.
Bleed the brake lines (Click to show)
Find the bleed screw on the caliper, attach some plastic tubing and feed that into a clean plastic bottle with a little brake fluid.



Using the right tool will make a big difference. The bleed screws are soft metal, in an area exposed to a lot of road grime and salt. A flare-nut wrench like the one on the right is your best friend. Using a conventional wrench as on the left will likely lead you to stripping the bleeder and giving up.




I used the two-person method like this:
1. Have friend pump brake pedal until firm.
2. Loosen bleeder screw while he slowly depresses brake pedal.
3. At the end of pedal travel close the bleeder back up.
4. Repeat until fluid runs without any air bubbles in it.
5. Move to other side.


Aftermath
Another shot of the old rotor with warped surface:



New rotor in wheel:



Front view:



Booty:



Interior (after test drive, before overdue vacuuming):



Street cred:

 

Great Job!  Where do you live? That looks like a lot of rust on a relatively recent car.  

 

Whenever I have had to replace pads, I haven't usually had to bleed the brakes. Are you just doing it for the maintenance value -- replacing old brake fluid with new? 

 

With those grooves in the rotors, they weren't just warped, they were toast.  Probably quite a bit of noise in addition to the vibration.  

 

its nice not to have to repack wheel bearing anymore like we used to have to do on RWD cars.  

post #85 of 545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nobleprofessor View Post
 

 

Great Job!  Where do you live? That looks like a lot of rust on a relatively recent car.

 

Whenever I have had to replace pads, I haven't usually had to bleed the brakes. Are you just doing it for the maintenance value -- replacing old brake fluid with new?

 

With those grooves in the rotors, they weren't just warped, they were toast.  Probably quite a bit of noise in addition to the vibration.

 

its nice not to have to repack wheel bearing anymore like we used to have to do on RWD cars.

 

North-central Connecticut. Second owner of an 11 year old car that has spend its whole life in western New England.

 

Right about the maintenance value - the brake bleed wasn't strictly necessary but I wanted to flush the fluid. I may have had some lingering air in the line from installing the braided steel brake lines. Now I'm sure.

post #86 of 545

I was reading an article on line about Boxy cars.   Many cars are very sleek and aerodynamic now and that has resulted in some cars being more beautiful and sculpted.  There are also (in my opinion) some REALLY ugly cars today too.  Several car makers recently are trying to bring Square and Boxy back into Cool! 

 

I wonder if anyone else likes the boxy cars of days gone bye.  

 

Here are some of my Favorites: 

 

The Volvo 240s in all styles 

 

 

 

The Chevy Blazer (the full size version) 

 

 

 

 

The Ford Broncos (from the 60's and then in the 80's - through Mid 90's) 

 

 

 

 

Processed By eBay with ImageMagick, R1.1.1.M1

 

 

 

The old Land Rovers (especially when equipped to look they are going on Safari) and older Land Cruisers.  

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some of the old Boxy Square BIG Cadillacs and Lincolns (especially the land Yacht Lincolns with Suicide doors)

 

 

post #87 of 545
^ I wish lincoln would've done something more like the old continental with the ls.
post #88 of 545
+1 , anything done by Paul Bracq
post #89 of 545
Quote:
Originally Posted by fox15 View Post

^ I wish lincoln would've done something more like the old continental with the ls.

 

Me, too.  AND the LS was really a Jaguar with Lincoln tags and some of the older LS still had some of the Jag gremlins.  They got better, and the idea of the LS was pretty good, but the execution was lacking.  

 

I still like the LS, but you are right, it would have been so much cooler if they made it a real lincoln.    There is a NEW Lincoln concept that could have suicide doors.  IF they harken back to the good old days, it will sell! 

post #90 of 545
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nobleprofessor View Post


The Volvo 240s in all styles 





My dad had one of these when I was growing up. I nicknamed it the tank. It had an I 5 and rwd with a 4 speed manual and a pushbutton overdrive. I learned how to drive manual with it. The best thing about it was the manual crank moonroof.
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