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Artisanal Clothing and accessories discussion (MA+, CCP, Layer-0, Paul Harnden, Taichi Murakami, Boris Bidjan Saberi, etc...) - Page 39post #571 of 20072/9/16 at 1:29pmpost #572 of 20072/9/16 at 3:59pmpost #573 of 20072/9/16 at 4:01pmpost #574 of 20072/9/16 at 4:04pmpost #575 of 20072/9/16 at 6:57pmQuote:Originally Posted by Synthese
Dropping by to say that your boro blazer is stunning, @Chinorlz
. In my eyes, that material/fabric might fit the shape of the piece better than any of the others.
Thank you so much! That piece was incredibly challenging to not only cut out the pieces of but to construct. The original donje from which it was constructed was anywhere from 12-20 layers thick and the fabric is hemp which can be super dense and strong. Worked up quite a sweat and went through many rotary cutting blades just cutting out the pieces and only my heavy industrial leather sewing machine could handle bringing together that many layers at once!post #576 of 20072/9/16 at 6:57pmQuote:Originally Posted by Synthese
Dropping by to say that your boro blazer is stunning, @Chinorlz. In my eyes, that material/fabric might fit the shape of the piece better than any of the others.
@Chinorlz - how did you source that fabric? I would love to work with that material myself.
Incidentally, I think.... leather scissors might be a good tool with which to cut that material. It can cut through 12 ounce leather frighteningly easily. I've never tried cutting fabric with a surgical scalpel, though.post #577 of 20072/9/16 at 7:01pmQuote:Originally Posted by Chinorlz
Hi everyone! Eck and others have been kind enough to point me towards the recent discussions on here. First, many many thanks to FPS, Eck and everyone else that has supported my endeavor over the years. What had started off as a small project 10 years ago has become something that I never would have imagined it to be, and I have everyone to thank for that!
If cross-posting/linking between forums is not encouraged, I'm happy to post the recent collection here along with the recent developments of suiting. I definitely understand that there may be parts of the design such as the curved front pockets that may not sit well with some... I can certainly do flap pockets/welted pockets but the curving seam that not only shapes the front sides of the jacket (like a 3-paneled standard suit jacket design does) but forms a continuous line that generates the functional front pocket as well. The seam matches the inner sleeve seam as well for continuity and flow of the lines of the piece.
As others have mentioned, my background is indeed medicine (general surgery to be specific) while over the last few years my interests have led me more down medtech innovation and medical device design full time. Collateral will continue as it is a major creative outlet for me and of course has the added benefit of letting me add something to my own closet
Carpe Diem and Label Under Construction along with the designers behind these and similar lines have been a huge inspiration for me both in their design methods and the materials R&D. I have definitely embraced their clear passion for creating seemingly simple garments that have had a lot of thought put into them either through pattern development, materials development/processing, and/or huge man-hours. Since every piece of Collateral Concepts is made from beginning to end by myself solo, I have the luxury of total control over the process as well as total freedom. I recognize that this is not something that many others in the design world have (high volume production is pretty much an impossibility for me due to several limitations as well as no interest in pursing that direction) and so it allows me to source rare and unusual materials or use materials/techniques that otherwise would be completely cost or labor impermissive. I get the chance to construct pieces that otherwise could not exist or be created and I'm so happy that I get the chance to share that with people such as yourselves!
This weekend I should have some time with natural lighting to provide some images of the suits, jackets and other pieces being worn so that silhouette, structure and cut can be better understood versus the pieces being on a hanger!
Welcome, and while the collections are already linked, it would be great if you could post them here as well. We reach a different audience than SZ, and I'd hate to see someone miss out on our collection because they didn't click a link.post #578 of 20072/9/16 at 7:05pmQuote:Originally Posted by LA Guy
- how did you source that fabric? I would love to work with that material myself.
Incidentally, I think.... leather scissors might be a good tool with which to cut that material. It can cut through 12 ounce leather frighteningly easily. I've never tried cutting fabric with a surgical scalpel, though.
@LA Guy, this single donje came directly from Japan thanks to a friend out there that could source out original boro pieces that weren't in tatters. A number of collectors out there that have pieces now and then that they are willing to part with.
I have leather scissors as well as ceramic ones for kevlar (another project) and although all of my blades can handle 1-5 layers of the material in one go, it is the sum of the parts that really made it difficult. Since each one of the layers had been hand sewn to the others over time as patch jobs, you were forced to treat them as a single "layer" yet difficult to cut through all of them together. Fresh scalpels were great to finish off precision corners, but those blades also dulled quickly. I liken it to trying to cut through 20 playing cards at once versus cutting through a few.post #579 of 20072/9/16 at 7:10pm
The 5th iteration of my 10 year long project Collateral Concepts
This collection focused on materials research (with kind collaboration from Sruli Recht), a story behind the fabrics and giving new life to old materials while refining tailoring concepts.
This is a highly limited collection with some works being standalone pieces and others only being available small editions.
All pieces will be constructed to order and I hope will involve a dialogue between the future owner and myself.
All pieces are made by myself from beginning to end in my studio.
All background photographs used here were taken by me in Taiwan earlier this year and were all taken at the old house where my father was born and raised. In a literal way, my works here are built on the foundation of my heritage.
With other endeavors requiring more and more of my attention including medical device design work, this may very well be my final collection. Even so, I look back at where I started years ago and am fascinated by the evolution of my work while still remaining true to creating pieces using special materials, building components by hand and taking the works through from idea all the way to execution.
Thank you all for your continued support in this endeavor. It has been, and continues to be an incredible experience!post #580 of 20072/9/16 at 7:34pmpost #581 of 20072/9/16 at 8:40pmpost #582 of 20072/9/16 at 8:46pmQuote:Originally Posted by myshoeiswet
Hot damn, @Chinorlz
is a surgeon AND designer? I feel incredibly lazy now.
That Boro jacket is really something. Also, nice subtle touch with stitching your name into the leather bags.
@myshoeiswet haha just takes a bit of time management and late nights
Good eye! You're close... I used the chinese character for king for the stitching/anchoring for the bags. It was not initially on purpose as I was thinking about anchoring but I wanted something that remained symmetrical while generating multiple anchor points and it coalesced into that. I have a work bag that is a narrower version of the weekender that I carry daily and in that one specifically I stitched my family name in on one point:post #583 of 20072/9/16 at 8:52pmpost #584 of 20072/9/16 at 9:12pmQuote:
Yeah seriously. Frankly all of the jackets look amazing (and I really like the way the pockets look), but the vasculature side of the reversible jacket is stunning. Reminds me of moss agate a bit.post #585 of 20072/10/16 at 12:33am
Chinorlz... gotta ask since the question will probably make me a bit sad...
How did you source the fabrics from Sruli/his team? I mean, I know you'll do the items 100% justice, but damn... that's just another nail in the coffin that he's gone off to do other stuff.
In a lighter note, I just gotta buckle down and save up for some Collateral goods!
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